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Questions about SYE

XJiggy

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cleveland
I will be purchasing and installing a sye with my re 4.5 lift. I have searched and read some threads on other sye installs and it seems like a very managable install. However I do have a few very basic questions that have not been answered.

1. do i need a new drive shaft with the install of a sye?
2. how do I remove the drive shaft and do i need any special tools?
3. do I need new a new u-joint when i re-install the drive shaft?

I know these are newb questions but I want to have all the information i need before i jump into this.

thanks
 
1. Yes you will need a new driveshaft
2. There are 4 8mm bolts on the axle side, use some pb blaster and don't strip them
3. New drive shaft = new u-joints
 
If you dont mind waiting you can get the SYE from PORC for $185 shipped. I ordered mine last friday and today (Friday) I finally got an email saying it shipped. PORC IS LOUSY at customer service!
 
so is reusing a front drive shaft the most popular way to go or is there another way, obviously besides ordering a completely new drive shaft.
 
JB conversions.

you get a thicker spline, NEW output shaft, not a cut down USED stock shaft. (Tom Woods)
the seals are set up better (see their site for cutaways of theirs and AA's)
they invented it
PORC does have lousy cust, service, and for $15 difference, i would prefer JB's design over that thing any day
it is only $200

there is a 12 sided bolt top, center on the transfer case, i think they put it there so that when you are doing it in your driveway at night you only have 15 minutes to run to the store to get a 12 point socket set.....

you will need a good set of LOCK ring (not snap ring) pliers. very affordable, and a good reason to buy more specialty tools.

if you can't get it apart, you missed a lock ring, you have to really look for them sometimes. goes together really easy. you also get a really good understanding of what your transfer case actually does, and give you a chance to inspect your chain and everything, or upgrade the internals to the wide chain kit

you will need to take off the front driveshaft output yoke to get the chain out, so you will need a pretty large socket (21MM i think), and you will want to do that right in the beginning (just put the trans in gear, in 4wd to lock it up)

you can do it in chassis in under 2 hours. i could probably bang one out in an hour now that i have done one. make sure the blue RTV has time to dry and set up before filling the case.
 
JB conversions.

you get a thicker spline, NEW output shaft, not a cut down USED stock shaft. (Tom Woods)
the seals are set up better (see their site for cutaways of theirs and AA's)
they invented it
PORC does have lousy cust, service, and for $15 difference, i would prefer JB's design over that thing any day
it is only $200

there is a 12 sided bolt top, center on the transfer case, i think they put it there so that when you are doing it in your driveway at night you only have 15 minutes to run to the store to get a 12 point socket set.....

you will need a good set of LOCK ring (not snap ring) pliers. very affordable, and a good reason to buy more specialty tools.

if you can't get it apart, you missed a lock ring, you have to really look for them sometimes. goes together really easy. you also get a really good understanding of what your transfer case actually does, and give you a chance to inspect your chain and everything, or upgrade the internals to the wide chain kit

you will need to take off the front driveshaft output yoke to get the chain out, so you will need a pretty large socket (21MM i think), and you will want to do that right in the beginning (just put the trans in gear, in 4wd to lock it up)

you can do it in chassis in under 2 hours. i could probably bang one out in an hour now that i have done one. make sure the blue RTV has time to dry and set up before filling the case.

Well said and very encouraging!
Oh, and while you're at it the 231 t-case only holds a hair over a quart of ATF get the best stuff available to fill it. I put Royal Purple in mine and it made it shift like BUTTER. At the very least get synthetic.
 
JB conversions.


you will need to take off the front driveshaft output yoke to get the chain out, so you will need a pretty large socket (21MM i think), and you will want to do that right in the beginning (just put the trans in gear, in 4wd to lock it up)

.

If you like doing extra work, you can take of the front shaft and yoke, but you certainly DONT have to do this. All it reqiures is removing one more lock ring on the left gear, and the whole thing slides out without ever touching the front of the t-case. The left gear, chain and shaft/right gear will come out together, and you just re-install the same way.

It will look overwhelming at first if you have never done one, but dont let that stop you. They are quite simple inside.

~James
 
I was confused about these "lock ring" pliers. Here the snap ring pliers I have will work because they are good for internal and external snap rings. They are like the ones in the picture here except they weren't harbor freight brand.
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those pliers SUCK... Do not get them Although it will get it done you will do a lot of cussing... When i did mine took about 2 hours... I got the Teraflex SYE and it was pretty beefy. (i was told it was the best one out there) Its easy if you follow the instructions. And one more thing... If your putting the lift on before the sye you can sit under the rig while you do the install Hehe.
 
If you like doing extra work, you can take of the front shaft and yoke, but you certainly DONT have to do this. All it reqiures is removing one more lock ring on the left gear, and the whole thing slides out without ever touching the front of the t-case. The left gear, chain and shaft/right gear will come out together, and you just re-install the same way.

It will look overwhelming at first if you have never done one, but dont let that stop you. They are quite simple inside.

~James
nice, i will have to try that next time
 
What would be the advantage or reason to get a "super short" SYE then a standard length?
 
What would be the advantage or reason to get a "super short" SYE then a standard length?

Between a "Super Short" and a Standard SYE?

On a XJ there is really no advantage to a "Super Short" SYE. They are usually used on Wranglers because of the extremely short Length and Angle of their Rear Drive Shaft. A XJ has a longer Wheelbase and a Longer Span for the Rear Drive Shaft so the Angle of the Drive Shaft is not as Steep.

I suppose if one had an Extreme Height in Lift then maybe it would help.
 
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Between a "Super Short" and a Standard SYE?

On a XJ there is really no advantage to a "Super Short" SYE. They are usually used on Wranglers because of the extremely short Length and Angle of their Rear Drive Shaft. A XJ has a longer Wheelbase and a Longer Span for the Rear Drive Shaft so the Angle of the Drive Shaft is not as Steep.

I suppose if one had an Extreme Height in Lift then maybe it would help.
This

Wrangler rear drive shafts are only a foot and a half long or so every little bit helps
 
so if I am planning on a 6" total lift for an XJ i should not have to worry about getting a SHORT or Super short SYE? But it would help with drive line angles? so it would be better on the U-joints to spend the little extra $$ and get the Super Short SYE.

Can the Front Drive Shaft still be used on a XJ with a 4" lift and a Super Short SYE?
 
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