mscans
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- west palm beach, florida
please dont put anything in here but tech only info, no discussions, nothing else, if you want to ask, use PM, this way it will be nice and clear and clean.
all this info was originally from this: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66012
i tried to organize the best facts into categories, engine bay, suspension & axles, and interior/exterior pretty stuff (stuff that wont effect your wheeling ability)
INTERIOR/EXTERIOR PRETTY STUFF:
lebaron hood vents -12$ each
scored a plug in factory trailer wiring harness from the junkyard.
On the earlier models you can get the clock off the dash and bolt it on.
Factory fog lights and switches
I've seen XJs with factory stereo amps under the rear seat.
When I go to junkyards, I always look for someone who has upgraded their heaadlights to the Hellas or any with the replaceable H4 bulbs.
'97+ mirrors are a direct swap to the older '84-'96 models and allow you to fold them on the trail and get a slightly larger mirror as well.
For the MJ folks: Some may not realize that the pre '96 XJ buckets are bolt-in as well as the XJ consoles (both full and mini).
Also for those who already have buckets, some early buckets had a tilting seat bottom as well as the seat back. The mechanism for this feature was contained in the seat mount and if you can find the mount with it you can swap it in under your original seats gaining a lot more adjustability (my first MJ had these seats and I could never get comfortable in my XJ until I scored a set of bases outta the same '87 Poineer I got my 4.10's from).
Some police versions have rubber liners (like pickups) instead of carpet.
SUSPENSION & AXLES:
WJ front LCA's
-same length as stock XJ LCA's but have a bend for clearance of wider tires
-slightly thicker steel than XJ LCA's and made of boxed square tubing instead of channel
ZJ Pitman Arm for a 1" drop.
MJ shackles for 1/2" lift.
95+ or any ABS equipped XJ for the 297 front axleshafts.
- rear sway bar axle mounts as bar pin eliminators on your shocks -free$$$,
- newer xj's have longer sway bar end links by about 1-1.5", cheap at 8$ each to clear coils on a small lift
-all skids at picnpull are 13$ in CA, (gas tank, t case, front skid too!)
for my rear lift I had bought early 90's 4 door blazers and 3" add a leaf. Been almost a year and still sitting square and at 6" I used all the leafs from both plus the add a leaf. Still flexes decent.
Rear brake line option. 84 dodge ram van is 12" longer than a stock hose and works great.
chevy truck brake lines in the front and dakota line for the rear. more than enough for 6in.
don't know if it's been mentioned, but a "free" mod is just using the stock rear swaybard mounts as BPE's. Use 1/2" x 2 1/2" grade 8 hardware with the bushing pressed out of the swaybar and pressed into the new shock eye. Works perfectly well, beats buying the same thing that comes with a fancy sticker..except I guess my rig might go faster with stickers on it :lol:
here's a picture, stock shock on the right and rear MJ shock with the aforementioned BPE attached on the left. Good for 3-4" of lift.
the rear lower control arms on the geo tracker 90-99, suzuki sidekick, and chevy tracker, all 90-99, are 2 inches longer than the xj front control arms, and will fit directly, with a little love. they are round stock, and torque pretty good.
http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html website to calculate the amount of LCA length you need to correct your camber with lift.
The longer (rear) WJ LCA's would add caster to your front end.
WJ rear LCA's
-don't have the tire clearance bend but are 2” longer than stock XJ LCA's
- slightly thicker steel than XJ LCA's and made of boxed square tubing instead of channel
-can be modded to fit XJ by cutting down the bushings to fit in the XJ's LCA pockets
ZJ
V8 coils give 1” of lift on a XJ
gastank skid can be made to fit a 97+ XJ
rear discs can be swapped onto a c-clip D35 or corp 8.25
V8 tierod is much stronger than the XJs and is a direct swap.
Early to mid 90s ford crown vic rear disc brakes are almost a direct swap to an XJ d44 or non c-clip d35. All that is needed to bolt them up is a spacer that goes between the outer bearing retainer and outer bearing seal to make up the difference in thickness between the caliper bracket and drum bracket to give the proper bearing preload. On the XJ d44 you can use the factory outer retainer for a TJ Rubicon d44 (mopar pn 1-05083678AA) after it is redrilled to correct axle flange bolt pattern. On the non c-clip d35 a custom spacer must be fabbed up. A 1/4” tall section of 2.5” od tubing with a ~.120 wall thickness should work.
The following vehicles rear leaf packs can be used in combination w/ an XJs mainleaf to lift the rear end (cut the eyes off of the mainleafs). Trial and error will determine how much lift.
Dakota leafs
S10 leafs
MJ leafs
XJ leafs
YJ rear brake line is 3” longer than the XJ's and is a direct swap.
S-10 chevy rear leafs - when using the main eye and bottom most leaf with the rest of a stock XJ pack it will yield about 3.5" of lift.
V8 ZJ stock coils - about 1.5" taller than stock XJ
I got my 4.10 axles from a 4 cylinder rig...most of them have 4.10 gearing. (also in the v6 2.8)
Vehicle OD Wire Dia Free Turns Free Length Rate lb/in Lift inches
Chrokee 5 .5512 7 18 209 0
72 F-150 5.3 .6299 7.5 16.5 287 .250
94 TBird 5.0 .6299 9.0 18 297 1.93
75 E-150 5.5 .700 7.5 17 409 2.16
70's F-250 4wd 5.38 .685 8.5 17 356 1.67
65 F-100 5.13 .6772 7.5 ? 448
73 E-150 van 5.50 .748 8.75 ? 473
ENGINE BAY:
90 XJ pressure bottle
I was having problems with my 90 XJ pressure cap holding pressure, the local NAPA didn't have one in stock and I was noticing a crack forming in the bottle.
Of course there were none to be had at he local U-Pull-It, so I started searching for an alturnative to changing over to the 91 and later system (I had just changed the rad over to a new copper and brass 2 row unit. My search of the wrecking yard came up with 2 possibilities, late 90's Ford Crown Vic or Dodge Intrepid and its cousins, being an old MoPar guy I chose the Intrepid.
I removed the old bottle and the shelf it was mounted on, the Intrepid bottle fit like it was made for the XJ.
The lower hose was almost a exact fit, I didnt have to but I replaced it with a short piece of bulk 5/8" and it was a exact fit on both ends.
The upper hose was a little bit of a problem I had to adapt from 5/8" to 3/8", a trip to the hardware store and I found the brass adapters I needed.
The total project including the trip around the junk yard took me 2 hrs and looks like a factory installation
click this link for pix.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...LE/IM000465.jpg
I have a 2000 XJ, and added cruise from the junkyard for $30!!
You need the underhood servo, with its vacuum line and throttle cable. The holes for it are already in the pass fender. The wiring plug was there also. Even the throttle cable bracket and throttle body were set up to accept the cruise cable. The vacuum line at the servo mounting point even has a "T" fitting with a small cap on it. Just take off the cap and plug on the servo's vacuum line.
You will also need the switches off the steering wheel. This means you need to take off the airbag so be sure to disconnect the battery. Needed a small torx bit to get the switches off. They bolt right on in place of the "blanks" on my steering wheel.
You also need the clockspring that sits behind the steering wheel. Pull you own wheel first so you know what tools you need. The first time I went I was not prepared. You need a good steering wheel puller. The clockspring is what connects the wires from the airbag and switches to the rest of the wiring, allowing the steering wheel to turn.
BE CAREFUL--apparently the switches from 98 or 99 and down and 99 or 2000 and up are different EVEN THOUGH THEY LOOK IDENTICAL. Sorry I don't know exactly, I wasn't paying attention when I pulled my first set but they did not work. I went back and got some off a 2000 (after doing some research) plugged them in and BANG the green "cruise" light on the dash lit up when I pushed on. Works like a charm and easy.
Sorry don't know how much work is involved in the earlier models.
I also scored a newer style intake manifold from the junkyard, and got the power steering bracket that is required to install it
Forgot about an other good mod that I had to do.
converting from the close system to open without changing your radatior using junkyard parts. Go to the yard and look for dakotas or durangos with a 4.7 and grab the upper hose to get there fill cap. Cut section out of the upper hose and install into it and find an any over flow bottle that will work. Block or elimitate the T'ed lines in the heater core and your done.
zj's and 97+ xj's come with a plastic fuel cell with the pump assembly on top, not too ugly either, perfect for an incab fuel cell on the cheap that will still take the stock fuel pump.
don't forget the late model Ford taurus dual electric fan to replace the mechanical on the 4.0 96-98 ford taurus, dual speed electric fans, like 4000cfm air combined.
A Dodge Durango steering box will work as an upgrade also. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71626
95-96 XJ power brake booster - great replacement to the renix crap.
350 or 351 power steering pump - works alot better than what we all have now especially with 35+ sixed tires. Mounts easily does take some welding.
The alt. from a 98 era 318 grand cherokee or dakota will bolt in with a slight exchange of parts. My stock alt. was 117 amp the grands was a 136 amp...and some of the older xjs were only 90 amp. Wiring should probably be taken into consideration if going from 90 to 136 though...
If youve scrapped your renix AC for OBA - use the existing AC cooler and plum it into the power steering gear box, you use alot more PS fluid but wont get the "whine" when turning at crawl speeds.
(transfer case mod)
How about the guts from a Dodge truck 231? Wider chain and so on for an upgrade on your 231...
There have been posts here before regarding this mod, might be a cheap T case junkyard upgrade for those lookin to do some mods on the cheap
Consoles for shifters (if anyone cares) are modular - If you need to downsize from full to shorty the shift indicator from an auto will fit into the hole left when you pull out the manual rubber boot - and vice versa. The sheet metal tabs sticking out of the tunnel have screws buried under all the dirt and will come out. However, carpet patching is necessary, if you bother.
92+ HO 4.0's - almost everything is straight accross swapable with the non HO engine. If your not a wiring geneous as I am not, use everything that doesnt need the computer, head, intake, exhaust, etc. Use your renix TB, injectors, etc. I did this just recently and noticed a considerable change in power. The HO head is ported much better along with the intake and exhaust.
A Comanche overflow tank mounts on the fender next to the stock air filter if you have (converted) to the open radiator. The 18" hose that comes with it is almost too long - beats the 3+ foot hose and gangly tall factory thingy behind the battery.
The old chrome custom oil breathers from small block chevies are PVC sized and pop right in to the valve cover - NO more oil on the air filter. Yes, the hood shuts. I am also looking for a mid 90's Pontiac oil separator/breather from the quad 4 (?) which even includes a finned cast aluminum body and oil return line to the nearest point. I looks like it was styled by the same guy who did the valve cover, and is my latest search item when out junking.
Mid 90's caravans have a nice tranny cooler the size of Hayden's smallest 400 series - but they are plate style, not fins, even better. Get them with the bracket and hoses.
Get an extra jamb switch to install 12" down from the hinges on the hatch - so you can actually get the back light on when it opens, instead of tweaking the hall effect sensor weekly . . .
all this info was originally from this: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66012
i tried to organize the best facts into categories, engine bay, suspension & axles, and interior/exterior pretty stuff (stuff that wont effect your wheeling ability)
INTERIOR/EXTERIOR PRETTY STUFF:
lebaron hood vents -12$ each
scored a plug in factory trailer wiring harness from the junkyard.
On the earlier models you can get the clock off the dash and bolt it on.
Factory fog lights and switches
I've seen XJs with factory stereo amps under the rear seat.
When I go to junkyards, I always look for someone who has upgraded their heaadlights to the Hellas or any with the replaceable H4 bulbs.
'97+ mirrors are a direct swap to the older '84-'96 models and allow you to fold them on the trail and get a slightly larger mirror as well.
For the MJ folks: Some may not realize that the pre '96 XJ buckets are bolt-in as well as the XJ consoles (both full and mini).
Also for those who already have buckets, some early buckets had a tilting seat bottom as well as the seat back. The mechanism for this feature was contained in the seat mount and if you can find the mount with it you can swap it in under your original seats gaining a lot more adjustability (my first MJ had these seats and I could never get comfortable in my XJ until I scored a set of bases outta the same '87 Poineer I got my 4.10's from).
Some police versions have rubber liners (like pickups) instead of carpet.
SUSPENSION & AXLES:
WJ front LCA's
-same length as stock XJ LCA's but have a bend for clearance of wider tires
-slightly thicker steel than XJ LCA's and made of boxed square tubing instead of channel
ZJ Pitman Arm for a 1" drop.
MJ shackles for 1/2" lift.
95+ or any ABS equipped XJ for the 297 front axleshafts.
- rear sway bar axle mounts as bar pin eliminators on your shocks -free$$$,
- newer xj's have longer sway bar end links by about 1-1.5", cheap at 8$ each to clear coils on a small lift
-all skids at picnpull are 13$ in CA, (gas tank, t case, front skid too!)
for my rear lift I had bought early 90's 4 door blazers and 3" add a leaf. Been almost a year and still sitting square and at 6" I used all the leafs from both plus the add a leaf. Still flexes decent.
Rear brake line option. 84 dodge ram van is 12" longer than a stock hose and works great.
chevy truck brake lines in the front and dakota line for the rear. more than enough for 6in.
don't know if it's been mentioned, but a "free" mod is just using the stock rear swaybard mounts as BPE's. Use 1/2" x 2 1/2" grade 8 hardware with the bushing pressed out of the swaybar and pressed into the new shock eye. Works perfectly well, beats buying the same thing that comes with a fancy sticker..except I guess my rig might go faster with stickers on it :lol:
here's a picture, stock shock on the right and rear MJ shock with the aforementioned BPE attached on the left. Good for 3-4" of lift.
the rear lower control arms on the geo tracker 90-99, suzuki sidekick, and chevy tracker, all 90-99, are 2 inches longer than the xj front control arms, and will fit directly, with a little love. they are round stock, and torque pretty good.
http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html website to calculate the amount of LCA length you need to correct your camber with lift.
The longer (rear) WJ LCA's would add caster to your front end.
WJ rear LCA's
-don't have the tire clearance bend but are 2” longer than stock XJ LCA's
- slightly thicker steel than XJ LCA's and made of boxed square tubing instead of channel
-can be modded to fit XJ by cutting down the bushings to fit in the XJ's LCA pockets
ZJ
V8 coils give 1” of lift on a XJ
gastank skid can be made to fit a 97+ XJ
rear discs can be swapped onto a c-clip D35 or corp 8.25
V8 tierod is much stronger than the XJs and is a direct swap.
Early to mid 90s ford crown vic rear disc brakes are almost a direct swap to an XJ d44 or non c-clip d35. All that is needed to bolt them up is a spacer that goes between the outer bearing retainer and outer bearing seal to make up the difference in thickness between the caliper bracket and drum bracket to give the proper bearing preload. On the XJ d44 you can use the factory outer retainer for a TJ Rubicon d44 (mopar pn 1-05083678AA) after it is redrilled to correct axle flange bolt pattern. On the non c-clip d35 a custom spacer must be fabbed up. A 1/4” tall section of 2.5” od tubing with a ~.120 wall thickness should work.
The following vehicles rear leaf packs can be used in combination w/ an XJs mainleaf to lift the rear end (cut the eyes off of the mainleafs). Trial and error will determine how much lift.
Dakota leafs
S10 leafs
MJ leafs
XJ leafs
YJ rear brake line is 3” longer than the XJ's and is a direct swap.
S-10 chevy rear leafs - when using the main eye and bottom most leaf with the rest of a stock XJ pack it will yield about 3.5" of lift.
V8 ZJ stock coils - about 1.5" taller than stock XJ
I got my 4.10 axles from a 4 cylinder rig...most of them have 4.10 gearing. (also in the v6 2.8)
Vehicle OD Wire Dia Free Turns Free Length Rate lb/in Lift inches
Chrokee 5 .5512 7 18 209 0
72 F-150 5.3 .6299 7.5 16.5 287 .250
94 TBird 5.0 .6299 9.0 18 297 1.93
75 E-150 5.5 .700 7.5 17 409 2.16
70's F-250 4wd 5.38 .685 8.5 17 356 1.67
65 F-100 5.13 .6772 7.5 ? 448
73 E-150 van 5.50 .748 8.75 ? 473
ENGINE BAY:
90 XJ pressure bottle
I was having problems with my 90 XJ pressure cap holding pressure, the local NAPA didn't have one in stock and I was noticing a crack forming in the bottle.
Of course there were none to be had at he local U-Pull-It, so I started searching for an alturnative to changing over to the 91 and later system (I had just changed the rad over to a new copper and brass 2 row unit. My search of the wrecking yard came up with 2 possibilities, late 90's Ford Crown Vic or Dodge Intrepid and its cousins, being an old MoPar guy I chose the Intrepid.
I removed the old bottle and the shelf it was mounted on, the Intrepid bottle fit like it was made for the XJ.
The lower hose was almost a exact fit, I didnt have to but I replaced it with a short piece of bulk 5/8" and it was a exact fit on both ends.
The upper hose was a little bit of a problem I had to adapt from 5/8" to 3/8", a trip to the hardware store and I found the brass adapters I needed.
The total project including the trip around the junk yard took me 2 hrs and looks like a factory installation
click this link for pix.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...LE/IM000465.jpg
I have a 2000 XJ, and added cruise from the junkyard for $30!!
You need the underhood servo, with its vacuum line and throttle cable. The holes for it are already in the pass fender. The wiring plug was there also. Even the throttle cable bracket and throttle body were set up to accept the cruise cable. The vacuum line at the servo mounting point even has a "T" fitting with a small cap on it. Just take off the cap and plug on the servo's vacuum line.
You will also need the switches off the steering wheel. This means you need to take off the airbag so be sure to disconnect the battery. Needed a small torx bit to get the switches off. They bolt right on in place of the "blanks" on my steering wheel.
You also need the clockspring that sits behind the steering wheel. Pull you own wheel first so you know what tools you need. The first time I went I was not prepared. You need a good steering wheel puller. The clockspring is what connects the wires from the airbag and switches to the rest of the wiring, allowing the steering wheel to turn.
BE CAREFUL--apparently the switches from 98 or 99 and down and 99 or 2000 and up are different EVEN THOUGH THEY LOOK IDENTICAL. Sorry I don't know exactly, I wasn't paying attention when I pulled my first set but they did not work. I went back and got some off a 2000 (after doing some research) plugged them in and BANG the green "cruise" light on the dash lit up when I pushed on. Works like a charm and easy.
Sorry don't know how much work is involved in the earlier models.
I also scored a newer style intake manifold from the junkyard, and got the power steering bracket that is required to install it
Forgot about an other good mod that I had to do.
converting from the close system to open without changing your radatior using junkyard parts. Go to the yard and look for dakotas or durangos with a 4.7 and grab the upper hose to get there fill cap. Cut section out of the upper hose and install into it and find an any over flow bottle that will work. Block or elimitate the T'ed lines in the heater core and your done.
zj's and 97+ xj's come with a plastic fuel cell with the pump assembly on top, not too ugly either, perfect for an incab fuel cell on the cheap that will still take the stock fuel pump.
don't forget the late model Ford taurus dual electric fan to replace the mechanical on the 4.0 96-98 ford taurus, dual speed electric fans, like 4000cfm air combined.
A Dodge Durango steering box will work as an upgrade also. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71626
95-96 XJ power brake booster - great replacement to the renix crap.
350 or 351 power steering pump - works alot better than what we all have now especially with 35+ sixed tires. Mounts easily does take some welding.
The alt. from a 98 era 318 grand cherokee or dakota will bolt in with a slight exchange of parts. My stock alt. was 117 amp the grands was a 136 amp...and some of the older xjs were only 90 amp. Wiring should probably be taken into consideration if going from 90 to 136 though...
If youve scrapped your renix AC for OBA - use the existing AC cooler and plum it into the power steering gear box, you use alot more PS fluid but wont get the "whine" when turning at crawl speeds.
(transfer case mod)
How about the guts from a Dodge truck 231? Wider chain and so on for an upgrade on your 231...
There have been posts here before regarding this mod, might be a cheap T case junkyard upgrade for those lookin to do some mods on the cheap
Consoles for shifters (if anyone cares) are modular - If you need to downsize from full to shorty the shift indicator from an auto will fit into the hole left when you pull out the manual rubber boot - and vice versa. The sheet metal tabs sticking out of the tunnel have screws buried under all the dirt and will come out. However, carpet patching is necessary, if you bother.
92+ HO 4.0's - almost everything is straight accross swapable with the non HO engine. If your not a wiring geneous as I am not, use everything that doesnt need the computer, head, intake, exhaust, etc. Use your renix TB, injectors, etc. I did this just recently and noticed a considerable change in power. The HO head is ported much better along with the intake and exhaust.
A Comanche overflow tank mounts on the fender next to the stock air filter if you have (converted) to the open radiator. The 18" hose that comes with it is almost too long - beats the 3+ foot hose and gangly tall factory thingy behind the battery.
The old chrome custom oil breathers from small block chevies are PVC sized and pop right in to the valve cover - NO more oil on the air filter. Yes, the hood shuts. I am also looking for a mid 90's Pontiac oil separator/breather from the quad 4 (?) which even includes a finned cast aluminum body and oil return line to the nearest point. I looks like it was styled by the same guy who did the valve cover, and is my latest search item when out junking.
Mid 90's caravans have a nice tranny cooler the size of Hayden's smallest 400 series - but they are plate style, not fins, even better. Get them with the bracket and hoses.
Get an extra jamb switch to install 12" down from the hinges on the hatch - so you can actually get the back light on when it opens, instead of tweaking the hall effect sensor weekly . . .
somewhere with all the driveshaft lengths. Search "front driveshaft" or something similar and you'll find it.
