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Looking to purchase this. Read an old thread with not many posts or info. I'm hoping more people are running this now and to find some good reviews and a pic or two to help me decide. I know it's beefy but other than that...-B
Thanks in advance for your help.
lots of my friends run it, It works great for plowing boulders out of the way when you cant get over them The solid Alloy and high quality heims are un beatable..
Beautiful! I had RK shoot me the instructions and i just ordered one up. No moving the track bar (get to keep my TnT), EZ OTK install by the looks of it. -B
1) Notes: For all vehicle owners that wish to maintain a steering stabilizer, you must purchase a strap kit to use your OEM or aftermarket steering stabilizer or use the factory bracket for the 99-04 Jeep Grand Cherokee which is OEM part number 52088872AA. This is only guaranteed to work for EOM Dana 30 or Dana 44 type axles at factory width.
2) Make sure the vehicle is on a level working surface, set the parking brake, and block the front and rear wheels.
3) Remove your stock steering components from your vehicle.
4) For TJ/XJ/ZJ owners; remove your pitman arm ball joint from the OEM drag link and save it for reuse. YJ owners must purchase a TJ style ball joint for the pitman arm connection. They are stronger than the OEM YJ ball joints for the pitman arm connection.
5) Drill out your front knuckles to .625 (5/8) Dia.
6) Now you are ready to start assembly of your new steering. A good starting dimension for your new tie rod is 51.88”-52.00” from center hole to center hole. Make sure the number of threads showing past the jam nut on each rod end is balanced and that you never show more than ½” of thread past the jam nut on any rod end.
7) Place the tie rod - rod end on top of the steering knucle on the driver’s side and secure it to the knuckle using the supplied 5/8-18 x 3.00 bolt and nylok nut. Torque the 5/8 bolt to 130 – 140 ft-lbs. Please note; there is a supplied machined spacer that must go between the rod end and the knuckle. This will minimize the amount of rotation the tie rod will generate.
8) Swing the other end of the tie rod over to the passenger’s side knuckle and place it on top of the factory steering knuckle. Between the rod end body and the knuckle; place the supplied machined spacer as shown below. The bring up the rod end in the drag link with the high misalignment spacers and secure it using the supplied 5/8 x 4.5” bolt and Nylok Nut. Torque the 5/8 bolt to 130 – 140 ft-lbs.
10) Attach the drag link to the pitman arm using the OEM tie rod end. Secure it using the stock tie rod end castle nut and cotter pin. Do not allow more than ½” of thread to show past the jam nut for the rod end at the passenger side knuckle connection. Once the wheel is centered, tighten down the shaft collar and the jam nut to lock the drag link in place. Again, make sure to never show more than ½” of thread past the jam nut for the rod end connection only. It is a left and right hand threaded bar so adjustment is pretty easy.
Locking Collar Connection
11) Make sure all connections are tight and all jam nuts are locked tight with all joints allowed to move freely. Also make sure the fasteners in the locking collar are torqued to 25 - 30 in-lbs.
12) You must get the vehicle professionally aligned before we adjust your factory steering stops. Make the alignment shop properly sets the toe and centers the steering wheel.
13) Before going off road you must adjust the factory steering stops with the supplied hardware. Remove factory steering stops from the knuckles and replace with new 3/8-24 x 1.75 bolt and 3/8-24 nut. Cycle the steering so you ensure yourself that there is no interference points between the tie rod and the drag link through out it’s entire cycle. You can also use the new steering stop hardware to limit your steering so you tires do not drag on your control arms if this is an issue for your application.
I wouldn't buy it again. I had troubles with mine and RK kept giving me BS about it. The bracket doesn't allow for the axle to drop much due to the upper rod end.
I had the problem that I couldn't turn left(i think it was left) the tie rod and draglink were contacting each other and they didn't seem to know the solution. Either way I ended up paying the shipping plus powder coating charges on something that didn't seem like my fault.
I wouldn't buy it again. I had troubles with mine and RK kept giving me BS about it. The bracket doesn't allow for the axle to drop much due to the upper rod end.
I had the problem that I couldn't turn left(i think it was left) the tie rod and draglink were contacting each other and they didn't seem to know the solution. Either way I ended up paying the shipping plus powder coating charges on something that didn't seem like my fault.
Now they stack the heims on the passenger side knuckle. I have the old bracket style and I am going to the new gen 2 style. My bracket cracked last falland I haven't coughed up the 100 bucks to get the stuff to upgrade my old stuff yet. Good thing my MJ has been in the garage all winter.
No more bracket. The tie rod mounts on top with a bolt going through the knuckle, the draglink gets mounted on this same bolt under the knuckle via misalignment spacers and a nylock nut. No need to move your trackbar or discos. FWIW the customer service was great so far, but it should be as i just bought it. lol -B
I would say mount the tie rod on bottom it's beefy enough to not have to worry about another inch of clearence. And less binding I would see with the drag linkon top, being for better articaulation.
I spent half a day grinding,filing and shimming that thing for absolutly no bind. It's a fked up design and even after you get the tie rod right it flops up and down because it's bent for sway bar clearance. The update is a nice upgrade but I would never recomend their products after all the work I did to their "bolt on steering upgrade". It was a good idea but it's bent tie rod flopping around makes the whole thing a joke. Steer clear of this setup!
