8.8 Swap Write-up

1. Find a decently priced 8.8, $250 or so is the usual for a complete axle assembly. Obviously find it in the gear ratio that you want, I chose 4.10's and regeared my front to 4.10 as well for the 33" tires I'm running. I'm sure I'll end up at 4.88's somewhere down the road.


2. Cut off the swaybar brackets and spring under leaf spring mounts. Fill any grooves you may have accidentally cut into the axle tubes with weld and grind smooth.


3. Drain the diff fluid(which could very well be the fluid put in there from the factory, i think mine was.oke


4. Order a beefy differential cover from www.ruffstuffspecialties.com. You might as well order their 8.8 swap kit while you're at it.


5. Paint, seal, and install said differential cover:


6. Bend up hard brake lines, and I welded a 7/16" bolt upside down on the axle for the distribution block to go on to. I also mocked up the disc brake soft lines and welded 5/16" bolts in place for this near where the spring perches ended up. I used rear passenger brake hoses(the soft lines) for both sides, since the explorer drivers side soft line IS the distribution block on the explorer. I'm sure you could use this if you want, but I already spent money on my braided extended brake line. Don't have alot of pictures, but here you can see one of the soft line bolts welded to the tube.


7. Remove the old axle, which involves removing the 4 total u-bolts, the shocks, and brake lines/breather tube.


8. Place the spring perches on the 8.8 and install the u-bolts/plates and the shocks for position. Be sure to measure a few times to make sure it's all right with the correct pinion angle(about 2° below being straight at the transfer case if you have a SYE. If you're still running the stock slip yoke, the pinion should be pointed level with the ground). Tack on the perches and shock mounts on in the right position.


9. Remove axle and weld on everything for real.



10. Paint everything and make it looks pretty.



11. Install back in the vehicle permanently, and trim the u-bolts.





12. Bleed the brakes and put the wheels back on and take it for a test drive. Looks right at home in there.



A few miscellaneous notes:

• The core charge for the calipers is as much as the caliper itself, so get some junkyard calipers for cores if possible.
• To hook up the driveshaft, you'll need a flange adapter. The spicer number for this is 2-2-1379 and can usually be had for cheaper at drivetrain places than anywhere online. You'll also need 12 point metric bolts(12mm x 1.75 thread 12 point) to hook the flange up to the axle, the ford part number for these is N800594-S100.
• This is a heavy axle, definitely don't try moving it around alone.

Hope this helps, feel free to ask if you have any questions.

would it be better to just use an xj d44 or go for the 8.8?

8.8 are easier to come by and alegedly a little stronger

:skull2:

well lets say at my junkyard there's an xj with a d44 sitting there (there really is..) and an exploder with an 8.8. what would be the best option?

Mopar It said:

would it be better to just use an xj d44 or go for the 8.8?

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Well the XJ 44 is bolt in, which is cool. I opted to go with the 8.8 because the shafts have a higher strength rating(1500 lbs more if I recall correctly), disc brakes, and factory 4.10's.

Mopar It said:

well lets say at my junkyard there's an xj with a d44 sitting there (there really is..) and an exploder with an 8.8. what would be the best option?

Click to expand...

Is the D44 already in an XJ? If so, it is a direct bolt in swap. If it's in an MJ, then you'll still need to put new spring perches on the axle. IMO, I'd use the D44 (if it's out an XJ) for ease of swap.

YMMV

I opted for the xj44 for the following reasons...

I found one in a yard for $80 (hard find!)

It had 3.55 gears so I didnt need to regear the front(Yet)

I work two jobs so I wanted the closest to bolt in(no time!)

And lastly I didnt want the extra expense of c-clip eliminators.

In the end they both are supposed to take 35s with a locker so... to each his/her own.

Chadwick

I'm surprised you didn't mention anything about welding the tubes to the diff.

I've heard they spin relatively easily.

nice job i like the diff cover

MoparManiac said:

I'm surprised you didn't mention anything about welding the tubes to the diff.

I've heard they spin relatively easily.

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Crap! I did do that, just forgot to mention it. Thanks for the reminder.

Welding the cast pumpkin to the tubes sucked.

Nice and clean, good job!

ddeadserious said:

Crap! I did do that, just forgot to mention it. Thanks for the reminder.

Welding the cast pumpkin to the tubes sucked.

Click to expand...

Nickel rod?

Nice job. I've been running my 8.8 for 3 years now and haven't welded the tubes yet. I need to, but I have wheeled it pretty hard with no issues.

Nice writeup!

IllianaXJ said:

Nice job. I've been running my 8.8 for 3 years now and haven't welded the tubes yet. I need to, but I have wheeled it pretty hard with no issues.

Nice writeup!

Click to expand...

Dude.....get those tubes welded!!

You'll wish like hell you would have one of these days!

Thanks for all the compliments guys.

SnagglePuss said:

How did you route the brakelines? For the rubber line from the caliper, did you weld tabs onto spring perches to attach rubber line to hardline?

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Where the rubber line meets the caliper, I welded a bolt(head to the axle) to the axle right underneath the spring perches.

What about the proportioning valve, did you have to modify it or replace it, due to changing from drum to disk brakes?

I plan on adding a ZJ proportioning valve when it gets warmer out and I do the WJ MC/Booster swap. It's fine for now though, no problems with it as is.

WHat diff did you remove C8.25 or d35?

Two questions:

1) Why the 12-pt screws? Is it because you need a reduced head? If so, would using a socket head be possible as well (I tend to prefer those, especially where I need clearance for the head.)

2) Would it be possible for me to make this a .pdf and host it at WiP in the "Project Writeup" section? Full credit to you (stupid question) of course... If you are willing, I'll hit you backchannel to let you know what I'd need from you - but this is just the sort of thing I'm looking for there.