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TeraFlex Revolver Shackles?

hot_rod_hooligans

hot_rod_hooligans

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Indianapolis
I'm looking into new shackles, but don't want to add any lift.... yet. I saw the Revolver's and thought they would suit my needs and add to the suspension at the same time.

Anyone ever run them? Any thing I need to know about them?

As I said, I don't want to add any lift via shackles, I prefer nothing but spring lift, no spacers, blocks, or shackles, If I have 6" of lift, I want it to be able to use that full 6" when it needs to.
 
waste of money, they unload in the worst of situations
 
hot_rod_hooligans said:
As I said, I don't want to add any lift via shackles, I prefer nothing but spring lift, no spacers, blocks, or shackles, If I have 6" of lift, I want it to be able to use that full 6" when it needs to.
Click to expand...

If you use straight up 6 inch spring packs you will get no flex, im not quite sure what you mean by wanting to have the full 6 inches of lift when it needs to be but shackles will allow you to flex and your springs will still hold their form unless they are bad.
 
alexer03 said:
If you use straight up 6 inch spring packs you will get no flex, im not quite sure what you mean by wanting to have the full 6 inches of lift when it needs to be but shackles will allow you to flex and your springs will still hold their form unless they are bad.
Click to expand...

I don't want to get my lift from a budget build method(ie, blocks/shackles and spacers), but I guess I didn't realize the role shackles played, but if strait up 6" spring packs give you no flex, then do the 6" lift kits achieve the 6" with a combination of spring packs and shackles? Because some kits don't seem to include shackles with the spring packs.
 
X2 on the need for some shackle lift. It will aid the spring to flex. If you have 6" of full spring lift, that means you have a lot of springs, or some stiff springs to get there. Lift Shackles will give some lift, but allow fewer springs or less stiff springs, and the angle they let the springs sit at, provide the spring with better opportunity to flex.

But if you want 6" of full spring, go for it, if you built them yourself you know what you get, or you may have paid for some really special soft springs. your time and money.
 
Get a 1" lift shackle from Rubicon Express or TeraFlex. They are both reasonably priced and will allow your leaf packs to flex much more. It will also improve your ride.
 
hot_rod_hooligans said:
I don't want to get my lift from a budget build method(ie, blocks/shackles and spacers), but I guess I didn't realize the role shackles played, but if strait up 6" spring packs give you no flex, then do the 6" lift kits achieve the 6" with a combination of spring packs and shackles? Because some kits don't seem to include shackles with the spring packs.
Click to expand...

Snob...lol...

just about any kit over 4.5" includes shackles. look at RE, Full Traction, Rock Krawler, BDS.....all have shackles.

for 6" of lift, you'd be better off with a 4.5-5" pack and a shackle.....you'll get out-flexed by someone with that setup, compared with your 6" pack and stock shackles.
 
The revolvers have more negative than positive. You don't need the kind of extra droop that they allow, and the decreased stability isn't worth it. They also tend to allow the springs to unload on climbs, they don't hold the spring in place well and it lets the axle sort of walk forward........basically they decrease climbing ability.

A good quality 6" lift spring pack will flex fine, but some are too stiff. A slightly longer shackle usually helps a lifted spring pack work better by providing a better shackle angle.
 
Ahh, and thats the info I was looking for, I'm learning a lot of this as I go.

Sorry if I ask or say ignorant things from time to time, this is my first 4wd/Jeep, and I've only had it since 10/06. I've only started learning about 4wd since I blew up the spider gears in my front dif back in May, and suspension since shortly before me and some buddies installed my lift in Aug. I'm a fast learner, but bare with me.
 
Good deal, welcome to the club :)

as a general rule, you get more flex the flatter your leaf spring is. TNT customs has a pretty cool way of getting 6" of lift - use 3.5" springs, their 1.5" u-bolt eliminator, and a 1-1.5" shackle. People will debate the use of their u-bolt eliminator perches, but anyway...thats a way to get 6" of lift and some AWESOME flex

Since your 6" spring packs are arched pretty high, you'll want the shackle (I'd recommend a 1" JKS boomerang shackle - i love mine!) - the boomerang shape will give you a bit more "travel" (not sure if thats the right word, but...). Personally, I think a longer shackle gives you a better on-road ride as well.
 
My RE 3.5" packs and 1.5" shackle gave me exactly 6" of lift still 2+ years and 25k miles later. I promise it flexes well...
 
i have run revolvers for years they have a lot of negitive press but do help keep the wheels on the ground i have never had any isues with them unloading at any time and the ride is as good as my wifes stock 2000 xj as for climbing in vermont we see a lot of different terran rocks mud hills logs tight trails lots of ledge and trees. wheather they are good or bad i know that my Jeep feels more stable with the wheels on the ground than in the air. the do help flex.
 
JNickel101 said:
Good deal, welcome to the club :)

as a general rule, you get more flex the flatter your leaf spring is. TNT customs has a pretty cool way of getting 6" of lift - use 3.5" springs, their 1.5" u-bolt eliminator, and a 1-1.5" shackle. People will debate the use of their u-bolt eliminator perches, but anyway...thats a way to get 6" of lift and some AWESOME flex

Since your 6" spring packs are arched pretty high, you'll want the shackle (I'd recommend a 1" JKS boomerang shackle - i love mine!) - the boomerang shape will give you a bit more "travel" (not sure if thats the right word, but...). Personally, I think a longer shackle gives you a better on-road ride as well.
Click to expand...

X2 on the "TNT method" of getting your 6" of lift. I have RE 4.5" spring packs with TNT 1.5" UBEs and a 1.5" shackle and it gives me the 6"s I want and get A LOT of flex (my shackle mounts are moved down and forward too though).
 
alteredxj said:
i have run revolvers for years they have a lot of negitive press but do help keep the wheels on the ground i have never had any isues with them unloading at any time and the ride is as good as my wifes stock 2000 xj as for climbing in vermont we see a lot of different terran rocks mud hills logs tight trails lots of ledge and trees. wheather they are good or bad i know that my Jeep feels more stable with the wheels on the ground than in the air. the do help flex.
Click to expand...
I've heard a lot of people say they are a problem except those that use them. Every modification has it's pros and cons and I think it's cool to see those shackles let the rear end droop way down low. Not for me but I think the negatives are balanced fairly well with the positives. Even when they don't extend they still let the axel pivot down without twisting the spring so that also helps them achieve flex . A lot of home made hinged shackes gave the revolver a bad name. A limiting strap in the center of the axel should eliminate almost all negatives of the revolver. So I say if you think they are cool,and they are and they will give the height you want then get them. If they are scary at times then use a limiting strap in the center of the axel to stop both ends from dropping out at the same time. Worse case weld them shut and still take advantage of the twist joint.

Naysayers of long arm kits say the same thing about potential unloading but you never hear of the long arm crowd complaining because it can be fixed with a strap or you arn't bothered by it.
 
Stumpalump said:
I've heard a lot of people say they are a problem except those that use them. Every modification has it's pros and cons and I think it's cool to see those shackles let the rear end droop way down low. Not for me but I think the negatives are balanced fairly well with the positives. Even when they don't extend they still let the axel pivot down without twisting the spring so that also helps them achieve flex . A lot of home made hinged shackes gave the revolver a bad name. A limiting strap in the center of the axel should eliminate almost all negatives of the revolver. So I say if you think they are cool,and they are and they will give the height you want then get them. If they are scary at times then use a limiting strap in the center of the axel to stop both ends from dropping out at the same time. Worse case weld them shut and still take advantage of the twist joint.

Naysayers of long arm kits say the same thing about potential unloading but you never hear of the long arm crowd complaining because it can be fixed with a strap or you arn't bothered by it.
Click to expand...

I used them. They cause problems. :)
 
don't go with the revolver shackles. they tend to unload when you're going downhill and makes it feel like you're going to go ass over tea-kettle. i used to have them, but didn't like em and switched to teraflex's 1.5" spacer kit
 
Last edited:
Sure, some people like them, it depends on what type of wheeling, and how extreme. If you tend to do more extreme stuff, and I mean full body extreme, then the Revolvers are a negative. If you're going through rock gardens or through really big ruts and dips they're fine, but if you climb and decsend steep ledges and climbs they are negative going both up and down.

Many people have used them and got rid of them, and many of us have watched them work from outside the rig, which can be more revealing than from the drivers seat.

If climbing isn't a big deal, and you want max flex, then go for them.
 
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