How To: Gauge Cluster Swap / Odometer Recalibration (Lots of Pics)

First off, check your laws. It may be illegal to change your odometer in your state.

Now for the How To. I have only found a couple of How To's for the gauge cluster install and odometer recalibration. How ever, the ony ones I have seen are for the XJ's that use an electronic speedometer connection. This How To was done on a 1987 Jeep Cherokee with the 4.0 and Automatic trans, if that matters. For this swap you will need a Gauge cluster to replace your idiot lights, new Temp sensor, and new Oil Pressure sensor. You may also want to disconnect your battery.

Temp sensor: Wells TU108 (from AutoZone) $8.99
Oil pressure sensor: Duralast PS133 (from Autozone) $12.99

First start by getting your cluster, I got mine off of Ebay. You may also want to take a picture of your old and new Odometers for any legal stuff or for your reference.


(I think you can only do the Odometer Recalibration for the Pre '91 gauges, I am using a '90 for my swap because that is what works for my '87)
Start off by removing the 4 screws that hold the clear plastic cover on the cluster, remove the handle on the Trip Reset button (It just slides off) and then remove the cover and colored gauge surround.

Turn the cluster around and remove the two screws holding the speedometer in


Then remove the screw on the front that holds the speedometer in


I found it easier to remove the speedometer if you take one of the screws that held it in from the back, and pushed on it so it would force the speedometer out.


With the speedometer out, turn it around and take a pick of some sort (I used a Hobby Knife with a small blade (watch your eyes). Push it in to the side of the clip on the odometer and pry it out. Be careful, it may go flying.


Now all you do is slide the number wheels over slightly so they spin freely, then put it to the mileage of your vehicle. The 10th's wheel rides on a little click piece. Now put the speedometer back in, but not the gauge surround.


Now go remove your old cluster, there are 4 screws you need to remove




Now pull the dash face off


Watch for this piece, it will fling off


Now locate all of the screws holding the old cluster in, and remove them (there are 6) Also remove the piece next to the cluster. It will either be a clock, or a fake piece to cover up the space (2 screws)


Slide the cluster out far enough to get your hand behind it. Stick it through the side where the clock would go. You will need to remove the speedometer cable, there is a clip on it, press it and it will release.

http://s22.photobucket.com/albums/b346/TMXONR/Gauge Cluster Swap/?action=view&current=MOV00368.flv

Now unplut the two large plugs going into the cluster (pay attention to their orientation)



Now make sure you put the light bulbs in the side panel in their correct spots.


Now take the colored surround off of your old cluster and put it on your new cluster, then put it back together.


Put the handle back on the Trip Reset button.


Now put your new gauge cluste back in the way you took it out. Making sure to connect everything back where it went. The speedometer cable may take some fishing to get it back in, since you cant see what you are doing back there.


Now its time to change the sensors out
First is the Oil Pressure sensor, Its on top of the Filter Adapter. Unplug it, and use a 1-1/16 open ended wrench to get it off. I sprayed some AeroKroil on it (you can use PB Blaster or what ever your preference is)



Old and new sensors


Now thread the new sensor in and plug it back up


Now start on the Coolant Temp sensor, Its at the back of the engine. Watch out for hoses like the Map Hoses.


Use a 1/2 inch deep socket to remove it. You will want to put some papertowels around it because some coolant will spill out. Now put the new one in, they look similar, but they are different.


Now re-connect your battery and test the cluster out. Here is a video of mine on start up.

kick ass dude! Nice write-up

Nice write up.

Whats the difference between the temp sensors?

Also, do you just plug the new cluster in? Do you have to mess with any wiring or the tach?

Thanks!

Starboard M said:

Nice write up.

Whats the difference between the temp sensors?

Also, do you just plug the new cluster in? Do you have to mess with any wiring or the tach?

Click to expand...

The temp sensor for the light acts like a switch, I think around 250-270 degrees, It sends a signal to turn on the overheat light. The temp sensor for the gauge, from what I read, acts like a variable resistor, sending a varied amount of power to the gauge to move the dial.
Yea, you just plug the new cluster in, the tach is already wired into the harnes

TMXONR said:

Thanks!



The temp sensor for the light acts like a switch, I think around 250-270 degrees, It sends a signal to turn on the overheat light. The temp sensor for the gauge, from what I read, acts like a variable resistor, sending a varied amount of power to the gauge to move the dial.
Yea, you just plug the new cluster in, the tach is already wired into the harnes

Click to expand...

So if someone were to not use the cluster, and just use a temp gauge, could you just splice into that wire, and then into the gauge?

Great write-up.

Only legality there is with odometers is that you cannot change the reading for sale purposes. I have turned many back to keep info straight on some of my drag cars. I looked into that subject a while ago when doing it. But back on topic................ again nice write up

Holy freakin' crap!

Clear close ups! Great pictures identifying screw locations! I am in awe. How come more camera's don't work as well?

Truly top notch write up. ALL the bases were covered and photo'd. Beautiful. You sir are my hero of the day.

PornstaR said:

Great write-up.

Only legality there is with odometers is that you cannot change the reading for sale purposes. I have turned many back to keep info straight on some of my drag cars. I looked into that subject a while ago when doing it. But back on topic................ again nice write up

Click to expand...

Thanks! I wasn't sure what exactly the law was against, I just new it was wrong in most places. My XJ is odometer exempt here, so I just changed it for myself.

Starboard M said:

So if someone were to not use the cluster, and just use a temp gauge, could you just splice into that wire, and then into the gauge?

Click to expand...

I don't think you could do that. The temp light and the light that are under it seem to be all one unit, so you would have to change both, I am not sure if the printed board on the back is the same on both clusters also.

jesterbomb said:

Holy freakin' crap!

Clear close ups! Great pictures identifying screw locations! I am in awe. How come more camera's don't work as well?

Truly top notch write up. ALL the bases were covered and photo'd. Beautiful. You sir are my hero of the day.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I just got a new Sony DSC-T100 for my birthday. It has a macro mode and a real close up mode where you can focus as close as 1 centimeter. I haven't found anything cool enough to take a super close up yet.

Awesome writeup!

This really helped me out. i couldn't find part numbers anywhere. nice job

excellent writeup!!! very detailed thank you!


please excuse me while i go make fingerprint duplicates


muahahhaha :wow:

great job i plan on doing the same thing this next week pending i can actualy get my xj to start....lol.

Correct on the sensors - the lamp circuit uses a simple switch, while the gage circuit is a variable resistance.

Nice detail on the cameras - it's nice to see CCD resolution catching to to about an ASA100 (I've done technical photography, microphotography, and astrophotography as hobbies. I still have the old Pentax K1000 I used - it actually has an aluminum body, instead of plastic...) I'm using a Canon Powershot right now, and it's close. Fingerprints are the standard I use for resolution/detail on CCDs...

But, overall, damn fine job!

Thanks

There is one thing I didn't do with this swap, and it is really only mandatory to the guys with the 242 t-case. I am running the 231 t-case, and my cluster came from an xj with the 242 t-case. So now when I am in 4wd, the light comes on and says "4wd full time". To fix this all you need to do is swap over the covers.

Sweet!!!

Now Since I have the cluster with guages but no tach, I can just swap in the full cluster right? No messing with sending units?? (since they are already there...)

poorboy_616 said:

Sweet!!!

Now Since I have the cluster with guages but no tach, I can just swap in the full cluster right? No messing with sending units?? (since they are already there...)

Click to expand...

You should be able to.

to bring an old thread back, what are the p/ns for the sensors? What year should I get them off of?

Temp sensor: Wells TU108 (from AutoZone) $8.99
Oil pressure sensor: Duralast PS133 (from Autozone) $12.99

These part numbers will only work for the Renix engines. If the 99 in your screen name is for the year of your Jeep, then these numbers won't work. I think the other engines have two wires that go to each sensor, instead of just one.

I just did the same thing on my 86. If any one is wondering, the only way this varies on the older models is the speedo cable. While the 87 and up models connect with a plastic clip, the earlier models have a retaining clip that snaps around the cable end. There are two ways to remedy this. Replace the cable with the later style cable or modify and transfer the clip from your cluster. There is a single screw holding it on. You will then trim the base of the clip enough that it will slip into the grove at the base of the new cluster and will use one of the existing screws on the back to retain the clip in place. Then simply push your old style cable tho your new style cluster and smile! If you look closely at the pics you will see the grove the clip will need to sit in.