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My HOMEBREW 242 SYE w/pics.

PAPXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Meridian, ID
I've been running at 6" lift without a SYE for a couple years now and finally got tired of the loss of clearance that I suffered due to my t-case drop.

I made a hybrid yoke out of a 242 rear output slip yoke and a 231 front output yoke. First I machined the splines out of the 231 yoke. Then I cut the shaft off the 242 yoke and pressed it into the 231 yoke and welded it. Then I made a 5/16" washer and welded that in place and cut a 3/8" hole in the center.

wj9853.jpg


In order to seal my early model 242, I shortened the tailcone. I cut off the base flange and then cut the tip off, leaving the guide bearing complete with the seal. Then I TIG welded the flange and tip back together. Here you can see an original cone next to my shortened cone.

wj98bp.jpg


At this point you could probably just hack the output shaft and drill and tap it, but I decided to go a little further and set the shaft up in the lathe so I could be sure to get some nice centered threads. So I tore apart the case and pulled the shaft out.

wj98uu.jpg

wj98xx.jpg


This made easy work of that shaft.

wj994y.jpg


I left just enough splines so that when I bolted the yoke on, it would be the correct distance from the shortened cone.

wj98ht.jpg


I picked up a front driveshaft at the junkyard for $12.50. It came off the exact same year and configuration as mine. 90, 4.0, AW4, 242. (I am going to be replacing the u-joints)
wj9anm.jpg


Everything went together perfect and so far it is holding up just fine...
 
Last edited:
I'm going to try to put it to the test this weekend. Only thing I am concerned about is the strength of that yoke I made. I just don't know if those welds are going to hold.
 
PAPXJ said:
I've been running at 6" lift without a SYE for a couple years now and finally got tired of the loss of clearance that I suffered due to my t-case drop.

I made a hybrid yoke out of a 242 rear output slip yoke and a 231 front output yoke. First I machined the splines out of the 231 yoke. Then I cut the shaft off the 242 yoke and pressed it into the 231 yoke and welded it. Then I made a 5/16" washer and welded that in place and cut a 3/8" hole in the center.

http://i3.tinypic.com/wj9853.jpg

In order to seal my early model 242, I shortened the tailcone. I cut off the base flange and then cut the tip off, leaving the guide bearing complete with the seal. Then I TIG welded the flange and tip back together. Here you can see an original cone next to my shortened cone.

http://i3.tinypic.com/wj98bp.jpg

At this point you could probably just hack the output shaft and drill and tap it, but I decided to go a little further and set the shaft up in the lathe so I could be sure to get some nice centered threads. So I tore apart the case and pulled the shaft out.

http://i3.tinypic.com/wj98uu.jpg
http://i3.tinypic.com/wj98xx.jpg

This made easy work of that shaft.

http://i3.tinypic.com/wj994y.jpg

I left just enough splines so that when I bolted the yoke on, it would be the correct distance from the shortened cone.

http://i3.tinypic.com/wj98ht.jpg

I picked up a front driveshaft at the junkyard for $12.50. It came off the exact same year and configuration as mine. 90, 4.0, AW4, 242. (I am going to be replacing the u-joints)
http://i3.tinypic.com/wj9anm.jpg

Everything went together perfect and so far it is holding up just fine...

It's good to have access to nice tools :)
 
Gojeep said:
Nice work there.
If you are worried about the yoke, just use one from some corvette's as would have just slid on with the right spline count.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75385

Gojeep, have you used this corvette yoke? I am curious to know if it actually works. I talked to a guy at a local driveline shop who seemed to know what he was talking about and he told me that the corvette yoke has different spacing on the 4 bolt holes and that they will not mate up to the cv driveshaft. Not only that but the price of the corvette yokes were a lot higher than that of the yoke that I ended up going with.

After talking to every other driveline shop in the state and on the internet, I decided to give Tom Wood a call. I was very pleased with the outcome. He knew exactly the yoke I was looking for and had it delivered to my door the next day for $65.

wrkldc.jpg


This is the yoke he sent. 27 spline, 1.50 seal diameter, 1.172 spline diameter, a perfect match up to an xj front driveshaft. All I had to do was weld in a thick washer, drill a hole and cut it to length.

Now I don't have to worry about the welds on my hybrid yoke holding up.
 
Fab on my brothers :) nice to see every ones custom work!

For mine I just ordered the yoke from a link in one of gojeeps posts. Much thanks BTW! Then I had a local guy shorten it about 1.125". Then he made a nice thick tapered washer to hold it on the shaft. For the final touch he turned a neat little plug for the end with a 21/64th inch dia hole in the exact center. Just did the hose clamp and thin disk hack, slid the yoke on, then drilled the pilot whole right in the center with the yoke installed. For the housing he faced off the whole end of the stock tail cone and did the seat for the new shaft seal. Much thanks to Kirk and all his work. The whole thing worked out awsome took my time and only cut once! Total Time 2hrs, Total Dollars: $270. Yoke $135 (wish I thought about "re-splining" the front output, damn!) Machining $100 good wrecking yard front DS $35. And the advantage of having two front drive shafts.
 
PAPXJ said:
Gojeep, have you used this corvette yoke? I am curious to know if it actually works. I talked to a guy at a local driveline shop who seemed to know what he was talking about and he told me that the corvette yoke has different spacing on the 4 bolt holes and that they will not mate up to the cv driveshaft. Not only that but the price of the corvette yokes were a lot higher than that of the yoke that I ended up going with.

After talking to every other driveline shop in the state and on the internet, I decided to give Tom Wood a call. I was very pleased with the outcome. He knew exactly the yoke I was looking for and had it delivered to my door the next day for $65.

wrkldc.jpg


This is the yoke he sent. 27 spline, 1.50 seal diameter, 1.172 spline diameter, a perfect match up to an xj front driveshaft. All I had to do was weld in a thick washer, drill a hole and cut it to length.

Now I don't have to worry about the welds on my hybrid yoke holding up.

Well I went with the same yoke you have as was talking to Tom Woods about it and he hadn't thought of doing it himself until then. It only arrived last week along with my new D44 that Ryan built for me but I am waiting on a set of shock mounts that missed the same shipment before installing everything.
 
I just came acrossed this post i run a 242 i have a spare 242 slip yoke housing i can cutand i also have a destroyed 231 that has the front yoke on it. I have a few questions. You mention on the 231 yoke that you cut down the splines why is that are they the incorrect spline count or size? Do cut them down till the splines are gone and smooth? Did you still tap and thread the output shaft? What size bolt should i use for this? I have broken the middle housing on an old 242 because the slip yoke had slipped out before... im just getting my jeep baxk on the road and prepping it for the tds safari run in two weeks and would really like to make this modification before the trip since i have all the same parts you used laying around in my garage
 
Also did you insert a bearing behind the seal of the shortened housing it looks as if you had. What did you have to do to make that work and would you by chamce have a bearing part number or dimensions. Any other info would be great
 
His last activity was Dec. 2011. Doubt if you will get an answer.

JIM.
 
Im alrady pushin my pennies just to make this trip with what i have. I wont be able to buy a hack n tap till after. Im not worried about driveline vibrations but rather the driveling slipping out to far and breaking another housing. I guess i will come up with something.
 
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