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Dana 30 pinion gear torque specs?
- Thread starter XJjosh
- Start date
8Mud
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Central Germany
Better get a hold of a good manual (I use a Chiltons component manual). Teh Jeep shop manaul recommends always replacing the collapsible bushing. Unless you replace the collapsible bushing, the retorque isn´t just a set number, but a slightly higher bearing preload than what you have.
I´ve done it more than a few times and still have the manual sitting in the rear load area for quick reference.
As a start, I remove the tires and rotors, turn the steering wheel straight and measure the inch pound torque it takes to turn the pinion. If it turns too hard, I remove the axles. Turn it over a few times with your hand to get a feel for what it takes to turn it. Oil the pinion yoke area up good with a pentrating oil and clean the rust and mud off of everything.
I mark the, driveshaft, pinion (top of the threads) with a punch and the nut and measure the torque to remove the nut (usually around 200 foot pounds/takes a serious torque wrench) and count the number of turns to remove the nut. I use a mokey wrench and piece of pipe (jammed against the frame) to hold the yoke and invite a fat friend over to turn the nut, while I watch the torque.
The object is to get everything back together into the same position, as when it came apart, then add a little more bearing preload (a slightly higher torque) than what you took apart. Unless you install a new collaspible sleeve then the torque is a set number.
I´ve heard of guys just slapping it back together again with an impact wrench. If the pinion bearing preload gets too high, they get hot and fail. I´ve done it by the book and had the pinion bearings, end up a bit too tight, for my taste.
I´ve done it more than a few times and still have the manual sitting in the rear load area for quick reference.
As a start, I remove the tires and rotors, turn the steering wheel straight and measure the inch pound torque it takes to turn the pinion. If it turns too hard, I remove the axles. Turn it over a few times with your hand to get a feel for what it takes to turn it. Oil the pinion yoke area up good with a pentrating oil and clean the rust and mud off of everything.
I mark the, driveshaft, pinion (top of the threads) with a punch and the nut and measure the torque to remove the nut (usually around 200 foot pounds/takes a serious torque wrench) and count the number of turns to remove the nut. I use a mokey wrench and piece of pipe (jammed against the frame) to hold the yoke and invite a fat friend over to turn the nut, while I watch the torque.
The object is to get everything back together into the same position, as when it came apart, then add a little more bearing preload (a slightly higher torque) than what you took apart. Unless you install a new collaspible sleeve then the torque is a set number.
I´ve heard of guys just slapping it back together again with an impact wrench. If the pinion bearing preload gets too high, they get hot and fail. I´ve done it by the book and had the pinion bearings, end up a bit too tight, for my taste.
The D30 doesn't use crush sleeve just shims and torque.XJjosh said:
Since you are not replacing the pinion or its shims, here is what the manual has to say.
REMOVAL
1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Mark the propeller shaft yoke and pinion yoke for installation alignment reference.
(4) Remove the propeller shaft from the yoke.
(5) Remove the pinion yoke nut and washer. Use Remover C—452 and Wrench C—3281 to remove the pinion yoke (Fig. 5).
(6) Mark the positions of the yoke and pinion gear for installation alignment reference.
(7) Use Remover 7794A and slide hammer to remove the pinion gear seal (Fig. 6).
INSTALLATION
(1) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the lip of pinion seal. Install seal with Installer D—163 and Handle C—4171 (Fig. 7).
(2) Align the reference marks and install yoke on the pinion gear with Installer W—162—D.
(3) Install a new pinion nut on pinion shaft, lighten the nut to 217—352 N.m (160—260 ft. lbs.).
(4) Align the installation reference marks and attach the propeller shaft to the yoke.