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First XJ build

Possumb84

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Greensboro NC
Hello all! Been creeping on here for a few years, but haven't posted yet. I'm about to start building my 00 XJ. It'll be primarily a rock crawler, but I will have to drive it to the trails(Atleast for a few more years). Right now it sits on 4.5" RE front coils, 3.5" RE rear springs, 2" lift shackles, HD offroad no lift shackle relocation brackets, Chrysler 8.25 3.55 gears and a lockright solid diff cover, relocated axle shock mounts flush with axle tube, HP D30 3.55 gears and a lockright ruffstuf diff cover, RE fixed LCA's, Currie LCA skids, RE adjustable track bar, HD tie rod, RE sway bar discos(red ones), 35 12.5 15's, NP231 with SYE (don't know the brand), transfer case skid, JCR quarter panel and taillight armor, roof sliders (not sure of brand) JCR rock sliders, had a old style JCR winch bumper(selling it today, switching to a stubby bumper haven't settled on a brand yet), 8K Traveller synthetic rope winch, 98 Xj 4.0 with adapter plate for intake, coil packs just sit there with no hold down bracket, e fan switch in cab, AW4.

When I bought it it was sitting in 31's, shackle relocation and shock relocation were not done, and the front coils were 3.5, so it sat raked in the front. Took it to Uwharrie a few times and was pretty impressed. Went to 35's over the winter ( wanted to be able to get up the first ledge on Daniel) relocated the shackles and shock mounts and swapped the 3.5 coils to 4.5, and trimmed the fenders a little more. Got to take it one more time before My wife had to dd it for a few weeks while her Tahoe was in the shop and the radiator blew, and blew the head gasket.

So that's when I decided that it was time to build it the way I want it. I'm on a limited budget due to have 2 young kids, but times not a factor since it's not a DD. Plans are to keep the axles, and stay on 35's. Going to re-gear to 4.88's maybe 5.13's, keep the lockrights. Bump stops front and rear. Rear shocks through the floor. Frame stiffeners. Pull the motor trans and t-case, address all leaks and minor issues. Those are the things that are set in stone(for now).

Things I'm on the fence about are:
Steering, I know I want some type of 1 ton set up, just not sure on wich one.
Control arms, adjustable lowers or long arms? Liked the looks and ease of install of the IRO 3 link. Lift will stay at 4.5"
Axles, should I truss them? Would rather my U joints and shafts be my weak point for easier trail repair if something does break, so not really wanting to to much other than gears and trusses. Also thought about doing WJ knuckles and brakes, and probably do liberty rear brake swap.

I will be doing most of everything myself, except some of the welding (in the process of teaching myslef) and tube work(rear shock hoops).

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. TIA!
 
Some pics of when I bought it last winter and after I leveled it out and put 35's on it
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Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
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Howdy, personally I'd swap axles if you want to go to a 5.13's. 4.88's would be the max I'd go on a D30 and 8.25. As for your lift and steering ?'s If you want a 1 ton set up the Currie system is awesome but $$$. I'd look at doing a WJ swap as it will address a lot of issues and improve steering geometry and bigger brakes is a plus. Stinky fab has a kit that allows you to piece together your own parts for a decent price. I'd avoid control arms and just go with a long arm setup. The IRO isn't a true 3 link, it's a neat concept but the pinon caster thing is an issue. If you want to 3 link Clayton hands down, but again $$. You could also fab your own links if your feeling frisky. I'm not a fan of radius arm set up's but some are. Serious Offroad has a great setup if that is a route you want to take. Good luck!
 
@smokeyyank Thanks for the info. Yeah I think 4.88 is what I'll do on the axles.
One of the ?'s I have about the steering I forgot to mention is, OTK or UTK set up and why. As for a true 3 link can you school me on that?
 
Great looking rig!

I'm not going to offer any advice on the build because I'm just not that technically savvy and I'd hate to steer you wrong. But I am curious about the roof sliders. Can you post up a picture or two of the mounting points?
 
@smokeyyank Thanks for the info. Yeah I think 4.88 is what I'll do on the axles.
One of the ?'s I have about the steering I forgot to mention is, OTK or UTK set up and why. As for a true 3 link can you school me on that?

Well if you go OTK it's going to get your tie rod up further away. Will also improve your geometry. Then you get in inverted y or a t set ups. Every one has an advantage and disadvantage. What you really want to focus on is getting your drag link and track a bar as parallel as possible. IMHO a WJ swap is going to be all around our best bet.

3 links are fairly simple. You will basically have 2 lower links that connect at a cross member and the lower control arm on the axle. Then a 3rd link that either goes on top of the diff or on the passenger side (all preference) that is also tied into your cross member. The links are all separate were as the IRO has 2 lower link with a radius arm 3rd link that attaches to the top of the diff. So its basically a radius arm setup missing 1 arm.

Here's a good link that goes over some basics

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-cherokee/816361-totm-front-3-link-suspensions.html

And another
https://nc4x4.com/forum/threads/link-suspension-basics.108936/

Another
http://www.bsfab.net/?p=118

Here's a true 3 link, notice 2 lower links and 3rd independent link on top.
images


Here's a radius arm
SOPLA.jpg
 
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Clayton also has a true 3-link although known more for their radius arm setup.
I really like this kit, tough as nails and preforms great without the unloading and binding you get with radius arms.
If you ever head over to Raleigh you're more than welcome to come check it out.
 
Clayton also has a true 3-link although known more for their radius arm setup.
I really like this kit, tough as nails and preforms great without the unloading and binding you get with radius arms.
If you ever head over to Raleigh you're more than welcome to come check it out.

I've been looking at that set up, seems pretty nice. What size lift are you running? Says on their website they recommend a 6" lift, I'm trying to stay at 4.5". Your set up looks like what I'm going for, how you like the 4.56 gears?
 
I've been looking at that set up, seems pretty nice. What size lift are you running? Says on their website they recommend a 6" lift, I'm trying to stay at 4.5". Your set up looks like what I'm going for, how you like the 4.56 gears?

I'm at 4.5" with RE coils, shackle relocation, and bastard packs. I haven't had any issues staying at 4.5", the upper arm is super close when stuffed, but with proper bumpstops it doesn't hit and nicely stuffs the 35s.

Ideally I would have gone 4.88s, but I came across a set of 4.56s for the 8.8 in an axle at work for free since we won't sell used aftermarket gears, so I just went with that as it's not street driven all that much.
 
I'm at 4.5" with RE coils, shackle relocation, and bastard packs. I haven't had any issues staying at 4.5", the upper arm is super close when stuffed, but with proper bumpstops it doesn't hit and nicely stuffs the 35s.

Ideally I would have gone 4.88s, but I came across a set of 4.56s for the 8.8 in an axle at work for free since we won't sell used aftermarket gears, so I just went with that as it's not street driven all that much.

Good to know, thanks for all the info. Yeah next time I make it towards Raliegh I'll hit you up and check out the setup, you work @ ECGS?
 
Good to know, thanks for all the info. Yeah next time I make it towards Raliegh I'll hit you up and check out the setup, you work @ ECGS?
Yep, I am the primary builder for all of the complete axle assemblies.
 
Cool deal. I've been thinking about selling my locked 8.25 and going to a disc brake 8.8, if you come across a good deal on one let me know.

I'm not sure if he has a buyer lined up, but a guy in the wearhouse will be selling his. It's welded for an XJ with 4.5" lift and I know it's geared 4.88, but may just have a trac lock in it IIRC. Pretty sure it has 1541 shafts and new brakes though. I can check with him tomorrow and see what he's looking to get for it.
 
I'm not sure if he has a buyer lined up, but a guy in the wearhouse will be selling his. It's welded for an XJ with 4.5" lift and I know it's geared 4.88, but may just have a trac lock in it IIRC. Pretty sure it has 1541 shafts and new brakes though. I can check with him tomorrow and see what he's looking to get for it.

Is it the guy with black XJ? If so I saw it for sale on Instagram. Ge had it listed for a good price, but for my budget I'm looking for one that hasn't been built up yet so I can take my time on getting it done.
 
Is it the guy with black XJ? If so I saw it for sale on Instagram. Ge had it listed for a good price, but for my budget I'm looking for one that hasn't been built up yet so I can take my time on getting it done.

Yeah, that's the one. And that's understandable, plus the 8.25 should do just fine in the meantime. I've had a couple of them I've beat on over the years and never had issues aside from pinion bearings, which I will blame on the prior owners lack of maintenance.
 
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