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  #1  
Old June 28th, 2017, 08:26
JeepFan3 JeepFan3 is offline
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'90 XJ - Bendix ABS Conversion Questions

My Bendix ABS has finally given up and I would like to do the conversion to get rid of it once and for all. I've spent the last couple of days searching forums and videos and I'm as confused as ever.

My XJ (33" tires, 4" lift) is a daily driver so I would like to go with new/remanufactured parts instead of junk yard parts - especially since the JYs around here don't have much of a selection. And since it's my DD, I need to be able to complete the conversion as fast as possible with the least amount of modifications.

With all of that, can anyone tell me exactly what parts/years will work best - parts that I can get from my local auto parts stores? Anything I can't get from the stores? Helpful hints or advice? Anything will be very appreciated. Thanks!
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Old June 28th, 2017, 12:41
1990JEEPXJ's Avatar
1990JEEPXJ 1990JEEPXJ is offline
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Re: '90 XJ - Bendix ABS Conversion Questions

If you know how to flare brake lines just get a booster and MC for a WJ. Fits better than XJ ones. Throw some washers on the back of the booster to space it properly. You may have to drill a new hole on the pedal to have the booster rod aligns with it properly
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Old June 29th, 2017, 16:26
Dragonlich1961 Dragonlich1961 is offline
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Re: '90 XJ - Bendix ABS Conversion Questions

Do your self a favor and after you decide on which booster master Combo you are using go to a salvage yard and grab the prop valve, lines to prop valve. And fittings from prop valve. As well as a spacer if there is one. I did this for my 94 to 96 swap and it made it so much simpler. Prop valve is standard fittings, the new master was metric,which I can't make.
Also grab the special fitting out of a non abs prop valve.
I grabbed mine from an abs vehicle and mine was abs but deleting abs at the same time and I needed the special fitting(only on non-abs models) to hook the second front line up.
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Old June 29th, 2017, 19:24
JeepFan3 JeepFan3 is offline
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Re: '90 XJ - Bendix ABS Conversion Questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonlich1961 View Post
Do your self a favor and after you decide on which booster master Combo you are using go to a salvage yard and grab the prop valve, lines to prop valve. And fittings from prop valve. As well as a spacer if there is one. I did this for my 94 to 96 swap and it made it so much simpler. Prop valve is standard fittings, the new master was metric,which I can't make.
Also grab the special fitting out of a non abs prop valve.
I grabbed mine from an abs vehicle and mine was abs but deleting abs at the same time and I needed the special fitting(only on non-abs models) to hook the second front line up.
Sounds like good advice. I found a 1996 donor ZJ that I plan on removing every brake part under the hood that I can get.
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Old July 1st, 2017, 20:22
JeepFan3 JeepFan3 is offline
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Re: '90 XJ - Bendix ABS Conversion Questions

Today I picked up a MC, booster, PV from a 1998 XJ without ABS. I got it all for $40 and it all looks in really good shape. Nothing was rusted and I was able to disconnect the brake lines easily so I have all the fittings. Weather permitting, I'll start swapping it into my '90 XJ tomorrow.
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Old July 3rd, 2017, 09:36
JeepFan3 JeepFan3 is offline
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Re: '90 XJ - Bendix ABS Conversion Questions

The new booster rod was longer than I wanted - even with the spacer that came with it. So I cut the rod and shortened it about 3/4 of an inch and welded it back together. I also drilled the hole larger and ground a flat spot on the end so my stock brake light switch will work.

Everything now fits really well except for the brake lines. If I had been smart, I would have grabbed those from the donor vehicle and made my life a lot easier. Live and learn... I'm going to go get a couple of lines from the auto parts store and start over on the left front and rear connecting lines. I think I can get the right front to meet the new location of the PV.
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Old July 5th, 2017, 13:43
JeepFan3 JeepFan3 is offline
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Re: '90 XJ - Bendix ABS Conversion Questions

Just in case anyone is thinking about doing the conversion using the same booster I did - probably don't cut and shorten the rod.

Even though the new rod measured about 1" longer than the stock rod, it seems that the new booster has a longer "throw".

After shortening the rod, my brake pedal rides at about the same height, but... it goes almost all the way to the floor for hard braking. Luckily, I used the 1/4" spacer, so I should just be able to remove it and correct the pedal location that way.
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