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track bar location

camojeep88

NAXJA Forum User
Location
huntington beach
I recently did a custom long arm with heim steering. well i know i have the the track bar in the wrong place but im looking for some input on how to correct pictures would be great i just have a ton of bump steer. this is what i look like currently. my steering was originally on top of the knuckle but i moved it down trying to help. also i have the ballilstic coil upgrade
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/XJ--TJ-Jeep-combo-bracket-upgrade-kit_p_1542.html



 
You need to get drag link and track bar parallel.

Typically, raise up the axle side track bar mount.
 
if the heim binds when the passenger side is drooped, you should be able to fix it with a bend in the drag link.

if he wants the tie rod to be OTK, hes going to have to move the axle side track bar mount.






OP - a little off topic... but what size DOM are you using, and do you contact the cover at full locker (OTK or UTK)? i have the same cover and am working on a steering upgrade. im curious as to your results.
 
ideally wouldnt you want the track bar as long as possible? pitman arm is stock with some plating to make double sheer for the heim but as far as getting a straighter pitman arm i would lose angle on steering but i guess i dont remember if i could or not on droop
 
steering is 1.25-.120 4130 chromoly and track bar is 1.5-.188 4130 as well and i dont hit the cover but i do hit the spring plates so i am looking some steering angle if i wasnt hitting that i believe i would be hitting the cover but it was the closest thing to stock other than the arb cover
 
With as steep as your angles are at ride height, I'd go back to otk with the tie rod and go over the axle with the trac bar. I was able to fit mine in front of the coil spring, but I run a dana 44, so there's more room. The typical ota trac bar mount will shorten the trac bar, but matching the angles is far more important than matching length.
 
I like the pitman arm too but my only question/concern would be welding to the cast pitman arm and potentially creating a weak spot next to the weld that could result in a failure. Not sure if its valid or not but I tend to overthink things like that.
 
Pitman arm, knuckles, etc are cast steel not cast iron. Biggest misconception on the Internet. Cast steel welds just like any mild steel, cast iron requires controlled heating/cooling, high nickel filler, etc.
 
How much lift are you running and what size tires?

I haven't seen too many people that kept UTK with 5"+ of lift for the reasons stated above (steep angles).

Personally, if you want to keep/invest in the D30, I'd look into the WJ knuckles.
 
Both ballistic and jb4x4 sell bolt on high steer arms for the d30. I ran the jb4x4 hard and never had a problem. It's a cheaper easier alternative to the wj swap.
 
Looks very similar to my steering setup, but much lower. I'm running that same tie rod/drag link setup, but OTK, plus the JKS over the axle track bar mount. Angles line up pretty damn good. You'll just have to shorten the track bar and drag link, which means you'll need two more tube adapters and the OTA track bar mount.

I welded some plate onto my stock pitman arm as well to make it double shear. Welded fine with flux core. If the bracing breaks off, technically you still have the strength of the bolt and a single shear mounted heim, which a lot of people run anyway.
 
Looks very similar to my steering setup, but much lower. I'm running that same tie rod/drag link setup, but OTK, plus the JKS over the axle track bar mount. Angles line up pretty damn good. You'll just have to shorten the track bar and drag link, which means you'll need two more tube adapters and the OTA track bar mount.

I welded some plate onto my stock pitman arm as well to make it double shear. Welded fine with flux core. If the bracing breaks off, technically you still have the strength of the bolt and a single shear mounted heim, which a lot of people run anyway.
Do you have any pictures? my steering was originally OTK but i moved it down trying to see if i could get it close enough to make it work. i welded mine with silicon bronze tig rod
 
Body side track bar mount is Rubicon Express with a hole drilled a bit higher to clear the diff. Axle side is the JKS mount. Tie rod is a slightly bent 1.25" solid tube from Iron Rock so that it won't hit the coil buckets when run OTK.






Now has a track bar brace (since mine is bolt on) and hydro assist. It's all a verrrrrry tight fit.

 
thats a nice setup i should have bent my steering but its too late now. I am going to raise my steering back to OTK luckily i that is how i originally had it so its just a matter of turning in the rod ends. now do you have any issue on up travel? and is it limiting you on down travel?
 
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