4.0 eaton supercharger & AEM F/IC help

hey guys
just joined forum today and have some questions

ive been looking for info on AEM 1913 FIC
for my yj
i know this is mostly xj stuff here but anytime im searching for any info for 4.0 I6 engine this site come up


so here is what im doing

im supercharging my 94 wrangler yj 4.0 I6
im using eaton M90 charger
30# injectors
AEM F/IC controller 1913
AEM UEGO wideband o2 sensor

im strugling with fic now. i figure where to hook it up for the most part
im still working on wiring diagram and when is done i can post it up
and if somebody can fill the rest that im not sure about thatll be awesome


thanks
Petr

Talk to Boostwerks, he's been doing the forced induction thing for a while now.

will do thanks
MODS feel free to move the thread if its in wrong section

Choices look good to me. I have done a 93 YJ so a 94 should be no different. Just make sure you have a FSM or equivalent for the wiring. My friend with the YJ found his FSM on eBay in PDF form for cheap. ODBI or OBDII, the F/IC does not care as the signals are all the same.

The wiring to be interrupted is as follows:
Crankshaft Posistion Sensor
Camshaft Posistion Sensor
All 6 Injectors

Wiring that is "T" connected:
Throttle Posistion Sensor
12V power
The O2 Sensor if you go that way

Your Wideband can be connected to the F/IC as it makes it easier for the person with the laptop and finally the grounds. I recommend the AEM only as the output plugs in directly. AEM does provide a set up table so you can "correct" the output of other widebands.

I think that is it. Should have looked at the F/IC manual but after 4 of these in the last 1 1/2 years I can almost do them in my sleep...

awesome info thank you
i made wiring diagram
could you look at it and see if it make sense?


http://s1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee427/fredycruge/?action=view&current=ecu.png

bump

Any pics of the engine and s/c?

Well, that looks remarkably like the print I used on the YJ. The wiring for both the XJ and the YJ are, I believe, the same and as long as you are comfortable with splicing wiring, it should take a leisurely couple of hours or so to do a clean wiring installation.

Take your time and do a clean installation. If you are not comfortable, then it is just a matter of practicing on scrap wire until you are. Soldering is an easy skill to learn as long as you have quality equipment. So yourself a favour and do not cheap out. Also, do not use tape for insulation, use shrink tubing. I use a heat gun to shrink the stuff. Better control. If you weren't way far away, I would be more than happy to grab my soldering equipment and help out.

This is not difficult, just time consuming. I also recommend that you stay away from the PCM connectors and cut into the harness near the firewall. This is an easy to work at location. Just remember to disconnect the battery prior to cutting things as there is live battery voltage in the harness with the engine off . Better safe and all that. I also recommend that the splices be staggered in the harness so as to not create a huge blob of shrink in one location. You can get the wiring loom covers from Home Depot.

Good luck although luck actually plays no part. It is planning and execution. I support the "Seven P Theory of Project Management" as it works for me...

Which is:
Proper
Prior
Planning
Prevents
Pixx
Poor
Performance

Feel free to substitute your choice of letter for the double x's...

hi thanks
im very comfortible cuting and soldering wires
i had done aw4 transplant to my wrangler and had to wire up TCM
so thats not a problem

im mostly interested in setting up and tuning the controller as im not really sure about base map MAP/MAF clamp etc
wiring is actually the easiest part

CobraMarty said:

Any pics of the engine and s/c?

Click to expand...

its not installed yet im still waiting for silicon 90deg. elbow and injectors

have to fab up mounting plate to hold SC

i wanna do my homework first

probably run NA with AEM hooked up get comfortible tuning it

and than go to supercharger and bigger injectors

Gottcha. Thanks. Did you buy the AEM F/IC already?

yes i have it here i read trough and sorted out connectors just need to extend them as i want to run FIC inside of cab
do you run FIC in your jeep ?

BUMP anybody can help me?

AEM says to mount the F/IC out of the bay as the connectors are not weather tight. I elected to mount mine above the brake booster on an angled bracket. Not the best location, but I no longer can work under a dash. Only time it is at risk of getting wet is when the engine is power washed.

In this photo, you can see it just above the 90 degree silicon elbow on the TB in the upper right corner of the pic. It is sitting on a bracket I fabricated.. I did pack dielectric grease into the connectors to help repel water. Speaking of connectors, you can clean up the installation by removing all the unused connections from the connectors. Wire and pin will pop out with very little effort using needle nose pliers. This is something I do in every F/IC installation (4 so far...) as it reduces the confusion. No dangling wires and no cut off at the connector wires either. So, all of the MAF and any MAG connection points can be removed. If the analog channels are not going to ever be used, they can go as well. I seriously do not like "untidy". And, I am not happy with my engine bay at this point in time as it is untidy.



For those wondering, the hood vent drip pan drops it's load of water inboard of the F/IC by a rather large margin. Believe it or not, thought went into the placement...

nice set up
i have to wire it up and ill go from there
i think ill have more troubles with tuning
is there any chance i could tolk to you on the phone?

thank you

PM sent...