AW4 Tiptronic Controller

[Fletchs90xj]

Originally Posted by rpyne

As I look closer at this design, I have a minor concern with the 74F04 and 74F14 without any voltage regulation for Vcc. It has been a number of years since I have done any hardware design and I don't have any data books handy, but I seem to recall that their Vcc NOM was +5V. I am not saying that they won't work with a high Vcc, but I have a concern about their life.

You are correct they are meant for 5v+. The 7404 was swapped out for a 4069 for that reason, I could not find a hystorisis gate that was in a 40xx family, so that one remains. Please do look at the revised Schmatic here which has some changes for better operation.
I guess a simple zener 5v supply could be added for that IC.

[rehab]

design looks really good. i would be interested in buying all the components and board if the price is right!

[rpyne]

Originally Posted by Fletchs90xj

You are correct they are meant for 5v+. The 7404 was swapped out for a 4069 for that reason, I could not find a hystorisis gate that was in a 40xx family, so that one remains. Please do look at the revised Schmatic here which has some changes for better operation.
I guess a simple zener 5v supply could be added for that IC.

I see, the schematic still shows 7404 but the bill of materials shows the 4069.

It is non-inverting, but take a look at the 40106.

[Fletchs90xj]

Originally Posted by rpyne

I see, the schematic still shows 7404 but the bill of materials shows the 4069.

It is non-inverting, but take a look at the 40106.

Sry you are correct. The PN of the inverter wasn't changed on the schematic I just did it in the BOM. The 40106 would be a suitable replacement for the 7414.

I will confess the components used were what I had available to me without having to purchase anything.
You could use a 40106 in places of the 7414. It may change the button reaction though as the hysteresis point may be different. Also the Transistor used can be different. But the values for R6-R8 may need to be adjusted to fully saturate the new transistor.
And anyone building this don't forget to give the ICs V+ and Gnd, These pins are left off on the schematic. Another note to either set high or low values to all unused logic inputs. Not doing so could make the project unstable.

Fletch

[vetteboy]

Originally Posted by Fletchs90xj

Another note to either set high or low values to all unused logic inputs. Not doing so could make the project unstable.

VERY important.

My first digital circuit project ever, I neglected to include pull-down resistors on all the logic inputs. There were status LED's on the output of each gate, and I could make them turn on and off just by waving my cell phone near the project. This boggled me for about two days before I realized that giving an input "nothing" was not the same thing as giving it "ground".

Suddenly I realized what all those resistor banks on PCB's were for.

It'd be a really interesting experience to drive a truck with this controller without doing this.

[antonxj]

Originally Posted by rpyne

As I look closer at this design, I have a minor concern with the 74F04 and 74F14 without any voltage regulation for Vcc. It has been a number of years since I have done any hardware design and I don't have any data books handy, but I seem to recall that their Vcc NOM was +5V. I am not saying that they won't work with a high Vcc, but I have a concern about their life.

ahhh good spotting

the 74xx series needs V+ between 2 - 5.5 Vcc, so useing a 4069 instead of the 7404 will solve that, but what about the 7414? I lwill look at a 5V supply for these then you could use either. It was in the plan in my head, and only halfway on the PCB

the 40xx series cmos can handle V+ of 3 - 18 Vcc but i'll look at using a LM7812 for all the rest, including a 1000uF Cap on the input side, also left some of the unused gates "open" will set them either high or low.

so the PCB is not off to production yet.

thanks for the heads up tho, but what you can't see is that Fletch and i are addressing these very errors in PM, but anyone that spots a prob. let me know, it's the reason i post the PCB here before it goes to production

[Gojeep]

This is working out really well with all the global inputs.
I ask around and see what interest there is at my end.
And yes I am downunder. Where in SA are you as was there August last year mainly around Cape Town though.

[nitrogt101]

How complicated would the install be? Still a lot of wiring to be done on the consumer end? If its a pretty straight forward install(for a non-electrical type like me) I would definitly be interested. Also, anything new with doing this on OBDII?

[antonxj]

Originally Posted by Gojeep

This is working out really well with all the global inputs.
I ask around and see what interest there is at my end.
And yes I am downunder. Where in SA are you as was there August last year mainly around Cape Town though.

Nope i'm a bit more north of Cape town (600+ miles) 1400 Km
near Pretoria for anyone that want to look it up!

[antonxj]

Originally Posted by nitrogt101

How complicated would the install be? Still a lot of wiring to be done on the consumer end? If its a pretty straight forward install(for a non-electrical type like me) I would definitly be interested. Also, anything new with doing this on OBDII?

Like with any DIY install there will be some work to be done, but not very complicated or technical at all.

there are holes in the PCB where you will have to solder in some wires( 2 each for the up, down and TCL push buttons) where you put the buttons is up to you but their final location will determine the lengh of the wires (have a look at Fletch's posted pics for some ideas!)

you will also have to solder in a chassis ground wire and a power wire that will be traced from a toggle or similar switch (location also up to You) this switch will kill the power to the "tranny CPU" found in you jeep and turn on power to this "AW4 Tiptronic Controller"

the holes marked a - g, cathode and dp are all used for a 7 seg display (look at Fletch's pics) so a ribbon or 9 core cable should be used here to mount the display somewhere you want it.

dp is the Decimal Point of the 7 Seg, used to indicate that the torque converter is locked (TCL pressed) but it is kept seperate on the PCB in case you would prefer a led of some sort to indicate this! the dp might be difficult to spot...also using different values for the resistor the brightness of the display can be adjusted!

lastly there are 3 wires leading to the 3 tranny soleniods found in the AW4 trans. you will splice these wires into the harness of the jeeps tranny cpu (same harness where you will splice in the power wire for the swop over switch)

it sounds more complicated than it is tho

we will do a full instruction write up once it is all sorted!

as for the OBDII (check engine light luminating) problem....the short answer is no! not getting around that one yet!

[antonxj]

ok so here is ver 1.3 then



Top

Bottom




what is different:

1: Added a 12 Volt Regulator at Input
2: The 1000uF 35V Cap is no also onboard
3: change the 7404 to a 4069 to handle the 12Vdd
4: 7414/40106 Inverter, Vdd now fitted with a 5V Zener diode so either IC can be used
5: Tied all IC's to Vdd and Vss (that i forgot before )
6: Set all unused Gate Inputs to either High or Low, depending on where i could route them.

think that's the lot......

[antonxj]

Ok, two errors found
1) pinout of the TIP120's was routed incorect base and collector swaped - fixed
2) 7812 Volt Reg. upside down - fixed

So here are the pics of the PCB, just use the links as embeding them makes the thread look a bit cluttered

Top Layer

Bottom Layer

the scale is set at 1.5 : 1 to give an idea of the size!

currently waiting on a quote from the PCB maker for the proto, should know by tommorow and then have a PCB by next week if all is well.

later

[1bolt]

Originally Posted by antonxj

Now my question is this: Would anyone be intersted in buying the ready made PCB and components or even the fully assemble PCB, tested and working of cause, this is more for the guys that do not want to risk the DIY aspect or don't have the time.

Count me in for a fully assembled pcb, something I could wire my own paddles to, with remote mounting of LED or segmented display, controls etc. So I can put them where I want.

Next someone needs to point out an OEM wireless padle/control setup that could be pulled from a wrecked vehicle, I know some newer non-exotic Euro imports have shift paddles. Audi and Volvo I think?

Does anyone know anything about cruise control setups? Maybe we could use the the more common steering wheel cruise buttons to control one of these? Specifically how do most common Cruise buttons get back to the main harness? I doubt my 95 Mustangs or 01 Cobra's wheel mounted controls used wireless... but I don't remember a pigtail harness flopping around either

[Dingo509]

most of the newer vehicles use what is called a clockspring. It basically about 6-9 feet or flat ribbon cable wound up loosly in a round box. part of it turns with the steering wheel and the other part stays fixed to the column. I don't know what year you have but the 95-96 with the airbag had this clockspring. and the cool part is the airbag is manual, so no wires, you could leave the airbag or remove it and sell it. you wouldn't have to have an oparation airbag IF YOU DIDN'T HAVE ONE ORIGINALLY! If you do have one you need to leave it.

if you do this you will need to swap the whole steering column i don't know how much more wiring will need to be done. I do know the ignition switch is now right behind the key, instead of low on the cloumn. But if you choose to do this you could use the wires in the clockspring to control up/down shifting. you will loose the cruise operation of the buttons on the steering wheel however. inless your really good and take apart the clockspring and run another cable inside.

Hope all that made sence

Dingo

[Fletchs90xj]

Or if you are so inclined you could put in a say 8 pole- Double throw relay so when you are in "Tiptronic" mode the cruise buttons become you shift and TCL. And then when in "Auto tranny" mode you can still use your cruise control.