2JZGTE swap this summer...

I'm swapping in a stock 2JZGTE (JDM Spec) into my 96 XJ over the course of the summer as part of a much larger project, and from poking around on this forum I thought there may be some interest. I am planning for this to be a seamless and at minimum a professional and factory looking install. New wiring schematics, photo and video documentation, possibly even a "how to."

As of now I have swapped the original 4.0 HO with another 4.0 HO, only had to convert the new block from a coil over motor to a distributor ignition. This was to fix the rod knock and buy time for the 2J swap. I have recently acquired the 2JZGTE with 30-40E (AW340E) transmission. Now that finals are almost over, I will be working to merge the Toyota's powertrain/drivetrain, the a/c compressor and power steering pump hoses, motor/tranny mounts, and all electrical connections through existing and new connectors so this setup is as "plug and play" as I can get it.

Picture the power and reliability of a well built twin turbo Supra coupled with the hard hitting, go anywhere through anything attitude of a Jeep, and you start to get a vehicle that will grab the street by the neck and beat the crap out of it. This Jeep is slated to have a tough long travel adjustable ride height suspension and chromoly integrated brush/tail guards and side skirt protection.

I know it's considered by many a good idea to not count the money you spend on the Jeep, but I'm going to anyway. I Wanna see how bad this is going to hurt... I'm sure others would to. I'll have baseline dyno numbers and video very soon. I'll post more in the next couple of weeks.

-CT Kassem
"We exist to do great things."



Jeep getting new (80K mile) 4.0, and test fitting the TT Supra rims:









Here is the 2JZ shortly after arriving in the shop:







More to come.

Two things I'd just love to see after the project is done!

1) The dyno pull sheet. Just to see what you're putting on the ground.

2) Your notebook. This isn't going to be easy, and I'd like to see how you're going to tackle it...

Makes me wish I had the facilities to do something like this, but my "pet project" would be something silly. Say, a 426 Hemi, stroked, with an 8-71 on top...

A large part of my goal here is to do this clean and crisp. I already know it can be done, but I want to take it to another level. I will have a "supplemental" manual to keep with it, so should I decide to sell the Jeep, any mechanic worth his weight in salt can read a book and service ANYTHING on the vehicle. I am going to test out "cerakote" on the intercooler and possibly the turbo housings and tubes (supposed to increase thermal efficiency by 15%), and am currently looking into techniques, coatings, fluids, and other methods that will allow me to address drive train friction coefficients, all of this with the goal of designing and building an extremely efficient series of systems that will effectively transfer power to the wheels. The A/C will work. So will the cruise control. I mean EVERYTHING will work. Math, accuracy, planning, and... crap... TIME and MONEY. For what it's worth I'm trying to do this on a student's budget. I'm 32 and have an understanding wife, but still, student budget. Suspension will be the next and possibly largest single investment in the whole truck. I'm gonna need a ZJ rear Dana 35 disc brake conversion, as well as some sort of posi-traction as well. The list to be done is much more extensive than is posted here. This thread should focus on the power train swap and all it's associated details.

Anyone had any experience with Toyo Proxies STII tires?

Toyo? Don't use them much - I tend to prefer BFGs.

The cerakote on the header and possibly the impeller scroll housing sounds like a good idea - but I wouldn't coat the exhaust after that. Not going to be a lot of benefit in keeping heat energy inside the plumbing, since it's not going out as "pulses" anyhow (the impeller breaks it up as it's spinning, and it's just a gradual flow of gas.)

Plan on going with a larger exhaust than you probably would have - for the same reason. I'm thinking 3-1/2" to 4" would work. Primaries, if you're going to fab something, should be kept as short as possible (typically, a log plenum manifold with short L sections off of the ports works very well. Look up "Weld Els" for useful parts.)

And, feel free to bounce ideas off of me (at least) if you want a sounding board! Considering some of the other oddball projects I've tackled, this sounds interesting...

Me likey if it gets done and is done right. :thumbup:

Engine mods and exhaust, etc will not be a problem. I work at a shop that has built several record holding Supras, Porsches, and GTR-35s. The main reasons for "dropping a 2J" into the Jeep are we are experienced with the engine, and it is far superior in longevity and power to any 4.0 turbo setup. I want reliability AND power. Not to mention the potential upgrade-ability in the future is retarded. The Supra motor has HUGE aftermarket support, and is known to be able to produce over 700 horsepower without needing to touch the inside. Transmission can easily be modified to hold around 800 without breaking, so with the 400 or so to the wheels I want to eventually end up with, well, it should be bulletproof.

Less talky more swappy! I will be following this!

Considering I'm not far away, I'd love to come down and see this in person (and maybe help turn a wrench or two)

Sounds like a cool project.

AAHHH

this has been on my "things i wish to do" list for about 3 years now!

as for tires, Dunlop Direzza Star Specs! Only thing grippier won't be street legal.

gonna keep it 2wd or 4wd? i'll be following this build closely.

It will stay 4wd. I mean, it's a JEEP, right? The Jeep's current AW4 adapter cone and output shaft that bolt to the np231 will be transferred into the A340E at the same time it's getting the clutch packs, valve body, and other components upgraded to achieve it's 700-800 rwhp rating.

Is it true the internals are swap-able between the AW4 and the A340?

Is it also true that you can bolt in an A340 valve body to an AW4 for better shifting/performance?

As far as I am aware those things are true. I know that the output shafts are different, cone sections are different, and electronics are different. You should be able to take your AW4 valve body to a good Supra shop and get it reworked to raise line pressure. Our tranny guy and others in the shop all believe this to be true based on their knowledge of the Aisin-Warner transmissions, though they have not actually done it. As I understand the higher line pressure will make the tranny operation more efficient when transferring the applied torque, thus reducing the "drivetrain loss" percentage of your crank horsepower. I can't verify either of those statements 100%, but that definitely warrants looking into for anyone with an AW4 that's looking for a little more "oomph". While I initially intended on modding my AW4, the 2JZ I bought for $1800 came with the stock A340E, so since I can make it connect to the transfer case, the plan changed to just installing the 2J and tranny together. Hmmm... I wonder what I'm gonna do with the AW4 that's in there now... shelf it I guess.

This sounds more expensive and less reliable than an LSx/LQ engine swap. I like the thought behind outside of the box. But hope all goes well for you.
What is this Jeep being built for? On-road? Go fast desert (makes some sense)? Rock crawler (no point in the recackulous high rpm hp)?

You know, I poked around for just a minute looking at LS1s... the cheapest crate engine I could find was around 2,000. For a little more I could get one that had a rated output of 330HP or so, but it's NA. All I need to do with this 2J is install the US spec intake cams, plug in an AEM, turn up the boost a little bit, and tune it. Bam! around 400 crank HP, all day long, on pump gas.
I never did find anything on what HP output requires forged internal upgrading on the LS series of motors though. Besides, I made sure to get the JDM spec 2J from Japan (not the crappy new ones made in Mexico) which is built to MUCH closer tolerances than any Chevy motor (as far as I'm aware) and is very well known for it's reliability.
Of course an advantage for the LSX motors is greater HP at a lower rpm... probably much better for rock crawling and such, but that's not what this is doing.

For the kind of power you are planning to get, I would recommend you get some frame stiffeners!

Rear suspension will converted to a 4-link. I don't want to wrap up that axle either!

and you WILL have to include pics of the first guys face (in what ever sports car he is in) when your station wagon blows his doors off.

Timmy2XJS said:

and you WILL have to include pics of the first guys face (in what ever sports car he is in) when your station wagon blows his doors off.

Click to expand...

Haha, Sneak up on some fool in a civic!