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Access panel for fuel pump

Replacement nut is 10-15 bucks online (part number 5200 5389) - I just cut the old one off and used a new one because I didn't have the special tool and it was way too tight for my strap wrench.

It's really not a big deal to remove/replace, and barely costs more than the Spectra Premium LO1 locking ring kit for an 84-96 tank.
 
Yes? Online parts supplier? I need part 5200 5389 delivered to a lakebed at x co-ordinates. Please hold? ....................................................................................

Just how I see it
 
pretty sure it's the same one used in most dodge rams with the plastic tank, so most real dealerships would have it in stock for pickup by someone or other... point taken though.

Up here plastic tanks are real nice because, well, I've never seen one rust out.
 
to make it easier, pull the soft line from the tank, and put it into a fuel can, the jumper the pump relay, and let the tank drain itself, no reason to mess with a silly hand pump.

unless, of course you're pulling the fuel pump because it's dead....... probably won't do as much good then:gee::D
 
Yeah, if its totally dead , that won't work at all. In my limited experience, they just die enough to not produce enough pressure for to run. Hope that's the case, as it is much easier.
 
Yes? Online parts supplier? I need part 5200 5389 delivered to a lakebed at x co-ordinates. Please hold? ....................................................................................

Just how I see it

This entire thread is a bit on the strange side.

XJ pumps are not known for issues. If they were, by 97' Chrysler would have installed said hatch at the factory and would have made it DOT compliant.

How many of you folks have actually had to change a submersible fuel pump? A hand full in the entire Club?

Of that number, how many have outright died on the trail? Any?

Now, how may of you folks carry a spare fuel pump? Show of hands.... Anyone?
<Crickets>

I see, so this entire discussion is rudimentary.

This is why you wheel with a buddy or 2. They drag you, and if they are able, your rig, back to civilization to deal with this crap later.

Forget the door idea. For 100% of the OEM Tech folks (remember what Forum this Thread is in), this is an entirely insane idea. Who wants to strip their interior just to put in a door for something they will never service?
 
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I carried a spare fuel pump last year. Stock one was making some noise... worried me.

Doesn't require stripping the interior, just moving a few panels and some carpet. No big deal.
 
I replaced mine, not due to. Pump failure, but to misdiagnonsis. Ittermittant CPS failure, spark looked good every time I checked it.

Trying to find a small pelican case to pack spare sensorsand pump into.

WBY9ZU: I agree on the OEM part, this should be moved to mod tech.

Guide for N00bs
If it involves replacing stock parts: OEM tech
Replacing stock parts with upgraded parts, or minor Fab: Mod tech
What stock parts? : advanced tech
 
I had to replace the pump in my 99 suburban and upon looking, someone else had already done that very thing. They just bent the sheetmetal back and then RTVd it back down. (I know, half-assed). So i used the same hole to replace the pump. again apparently. It had over 200,000 miles on the truck though. The original owner mustve used an autozone part to replace it with. Either way using an access panel is a wonderful idea. the reason they arent built from the factory is probably just what has been mentioned, safety regs. That being said, there are a lot of things done to vehicles for safety, emissions, mileage, longevity, etc.... We often change things that are done to increase HP, capability, and what not so i dont see any reason to not make a hatch also. I got some sheet metal, and some gasket material along with some self taping screws and made it nice and tight. Plus if it leaks you could get some exhaust fumes in there.
 
I bet I know why there isn't a hatch from the factory.

They designed that part of the chassis back in 84 and to the best of my knowledge (I'm not wasting time going through the parts catalogs and online databases to verify this...) never really changed it again after that. Hell, I had a 97 plastic tank bolted into my 96 after my original rusted out, it fit perfectly. So, they designed the chassis when the pump was on the front of the tank, then in 97 changed to the plastic tank and simply never redesigned the chassis.
 
Kastein; "BINGO" That deduction would in all probability be EXACTLY correct. 'Cause that is the way Detroit works.
Anyone entertaining a access port modification could probably purchase a cut-out from a wreck at a salvage yard to produce an 'exact' panel to fit the cutout. Fastening screws, after being tightened down could be removed and the points ground off to alleviate the sharp barbs protruding downward.
Thanks all for the interaction it was interesting..
PS- My pump is still working at 100%!
 
Kastein; "BINGO" That deduction would in all probability be EXACTLY correct. 'Cause that is the way Detroit works.
Anyone entertaining a access port modification could probably purchase a cut-out from a wreck at a salvage yard to produce an 'exact' panel to fit the cutout. Fastening screws, after being tightened down could be removed and the points ground off to alleviate the sharp barbs protruding downward.
Thanks all for the interaction it was interesting..
PS- My pump is still working at 100%!

I made my own cover from sheet metal obtained from Lowes, and yes, I did grind the sharp points off the attachment screws, as you suggest. The fore and aft screws protrude into the tank area within the pump hollow area of the tank. The right side screws are driven into the wood filler and don't protrude. The left side scews go into the edge of the hat section spot welded to the underside of the floor panel and protrude only slightly into the tank area because of the thickness of the sheetmetal stack-up.

I think it would be a very odd situation where the truck was in an accident that drove the tank up into the bottom of the cargo floor and the only thing to worry about would be that of the tank being punctured by the cover screws. I think the whole concept amounts to making a church out a chit house.

The reason I made the fuel pump top access is my XJ was born and raised in the salt belt and nearly every fastener used on the underside is rusted in place. I envisioned snapping the heads off every fastener trying to get the tank out (as I have with just about every other fastener on my heep); that, and my 68 year old bones just don't let me get around like I used to. Changing my pump from the top was a snap.

Anyway, my fuel pressure had been dropping steadily over a period of months and ended up around 40 psi. before I finally changed it The truck ran okay but I wanted to get that pump out of there. It had in excess of 134,000 miles on it.

Since I've retired, I don't drive the truck much and had time to fool around figuring out how to do this job, then getting it done. I wouldn't recommend doing this if you have a hard failure and need to change the pump right away. If you're not in a pinch to get the pump changed, it's a neat [Mod Forum] project.
 
I kinda like this idea, as I have the aforementioned skid/hitch/shackle-relocators plus a Tailbone AND I live where rust is just a part of life. If my pump goes south I'm taking Idahojo's idea and going to the 'yard for a hunk of floor. While I'm there I'll measure for the cut.
 
My '99 Buick Century has an access panel under the rear seat, and I know that Honda CR-V's also have access panels.

It's not the engineer's doing. It's the DOT regulations (Europe has a similar design code
and so the Cherokee was designed to conform to their standards, also).

In any car fuel system design, there has to be a solid barrier between the fuel tank and the passenger compartment. Fuel lines and vent hoses are not allowed anywhere inside as well. Access panels are not allowed as they can crumple and pop loose in a crushing
accident. It all has to do with something called: "fire".

I do not know when the code was enacted, but something like a 60's Mustang would not
be able pass muster today in this regard.
 
If a fuel starvation problem is intermittent, the only way to be sure that the fuel pump is actually the problem (vs. wiring, relay, computer, etc.) would be to monitor the voltage at the fuel pump until the problem occurs, OR swap out the fuel pump.
The first solution involves driving a car around that you fully expect to fail, until it fails (at probably a very inconvenient and possibly dangerous time), and the second solution involves dropping the tank. This intermittent fuel pump scenario is where the access port comes in handy. A lot more appealing than dropping the tank when you are only able to guess that the fuel pump or strainer is the problem.

I don't know what you guys are whining about? It took my 30 minutes to R&R my fuel pump on my 99 by myself in my driveway and that included dropping the tank. It would take you longer to cut and patch the rear floor then to just drop the tank and honestly it's pretty easy job.
 
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