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Door pins?

In my case, the popping was caused by the door check bracket that is bolted to the pillar, not the actual check in the door. The hole in the bracket wallows out and becomes ovalized, allowing the roll pin to shift back and forth as the tension on the door check varies, and thus makes the noise. I bought new brackets and pins ($15 each for pin/bracket set) for the front doors, and that solved the issue. I didn't need to pull the door panel.
 
I did a video on "door check replacement" on my 1990 RENIX;

https://youtu.be/0bvx02FGtUE

2.jpg
 
Lots of metal-on-metal and force at that spot. It took about 16 years for mine to wear out and looking at the hole, its *just* a bit oblong, but that's enough slop for the pins edges to catch on it and click.
 
Sweet. $15 kind of stings for something that should never wear out, but I don't know where I'm going to find a non-clicky one.

Your only other option--one I considered--is to drill them out and put bronze bushings in, but the cost for me was too close to really consider. I consider it a wear part like any other part of a door hinge assembly, so $15 didn't seem bad to me after 17 years of use. There's quite a bit of stress on that pin/bracket. Only the driver's door was popping on mine, but I went ahead and replaced both front brackets and kept the good one from the passenger side as a spare. That's another thought--you could likely find a good one at a junk yard from the passenger side.

There's a write-up on the other big Cherokee forum about the bushings..
 
Might work, I have a Fastenal closer than a junkyard.

My 99 was popping already when I bought it at 70K miles, and I don't know where you'd find one with less mileage today. Maybe if I did have a junkyard I could get one from one of the back doors.
 
Yep, I recently discovered the cracked fatigued sheet metal on the door that it bolts to on my 87 Wagoneer .:bawl:So how does one fix it?

The door check assembly bolts to the inside of the door. My experience has been that the sheet metal of the door itself fails and the assembly is only attached by one bolt...if at all. It's quite easily accessible by taking off the door panel (which is pretty easy) and removing the speaker. Then you can reach right in there and start fixing it. If the sh metal is in good shape, you're good.

So then you just extend the check arm and put the pin in there...or am I not getting where your problem is?
 
Thanks for the pics guys. Now I at least know what they look like and wth we're talking about :D

Now Im curious how they can be extended. I remember a thread I read a long time ago that shows how one could make the doors open wider.

Suppose I should check my door condition first lol :D
 
I have this noise on my 99 as well but after 300k of northeastern daily driving the bottoms of the doors would make an excellent saw to cut down trees... No scratch that... cut through SHEET METAL. So I suppose those doors will be replaced entirely but as for the 98 I will do this job
 
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