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XJ's and radiators

jpk

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Jacksonville, FL
I need to replace my radiator. I have a 96 XJ. I need recommendations. It seems all the radiators out have quality issues and or fitment issues. Any solid recommendations of a radiator without both of the above?
 
Both of my XJ's stock radiators each lasted over ten years.
They were replaced with Mopar's HD 1-1/2", dual core radiator.
Part number 52080104AC.
They are not cheap but they work better than any other radiator I have tried, including the CSF 1-1/2" 3-row.
 
Both of my XJ's stock radiators each lasted over ten years.
They were replaced with Mopar's HD 1-1/2", dual core radiator.
Part number 52080104AC.
They are not cheap but they work better than any other radiator I have tried, including the CSF 1-1/2" 3-row.

what this guy said.
 
I used a "Spectra Premium" radiator in my '99 along with a Robert Shaw thermostat and both worked well. Rad was surprisingly cheap. Unfortunately that was only 3.5 years ago and now I have to start over on another Heep as the '99 won't pass emissions, so I can't comment on longevity past that.
 
I used a "Spectra Premium" radiator in my '99 along with a Robert Shaw thermostat and both worked well. Rad was surprisingly cheap. Unfortunately that was only 3.5 years ago and now I have to start over on another Heep as the '99 won't pass emissions, so I can't comment on longevity past that.

Why won't it pass emissions? You gave up?
 
Why won't it pass emissions? You gave up?

Shop fried the PCM and can't find a replacement that will not throw a CEL for a leak detection pump that isn't there. I'll be selling it after I take a few goodies off and it'd be a good deal because drivetrain only has ~130K miles on it, all synthetic fluids since I've had it (70K) turdy five though. Body is rust free except around windshield, but shit (hail damage)

Got a high miles 2000 which sounds like a downgrade but it actually looks better and has up country, LSD and 242
 
Shop fried the PCM and can't find a replacement that will not throw a CEL for a leak detection pump that isn't there. I'll be selling it after I take a few goodies off and it'd be a good deal because drivetrain only has ~130K miles on it, all synthetic fluids since I've had it (70K) turdy five though. Body is rust free except around windshield, but shit (hail damage)

Got a high miles 2000 which sounds like a downgrade but it actually looks better and has up country, LSD and 242

The correct ECM for your XJ should be available in the aftermarket from various rebuilders.
In my experience, all they need is the VIN to supply the right box.
 
The correct ECM for your XJ should be available in the aftermarket from various rebuilders.
In my experience, all they need is the VIN to supply the right box.

I've tried four. Still a CEL. I give up. I haven't had a reliable heep in a year, and the tags are dead because I can't register it. I'd actually rather have the Y2K though because it has less body damage, better suspension, better rear axle, and I was actually considering a swap to a 242 t-case anyway.
 
May I ask what sort of problems did you all have with the CSF 3 row? I've talked to many people who love them and have them going strong 8+ years. I've just recently upgraded to one as well and after years of overheating trouble, specially on the the trail, I can finally say that my overheating troubles are over. I'm running about 20-25* cooler than any other time in the past 5 years. And as far as the fit. Easy peasy. Old one out and new one in in about 30min. No modifications needed


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
The CSF 3-row has worked well for me. I also replaced the
fan clutch at the same time, and the XJ runs a steady coolant
temp under all conditions.

IMO, the key to having a radiator last is to change the coolant
on a regular basis. I actually have ph test strips that will indicate
when that needs to be done...
 
......

IMO, the key to having a radiator last is to change the coolant
on a regular basis. I actually have ph test strips that will indicate
when that needs to be done...

Lot of truth to this...

I've been changing the coolant, and thermostat on a regular scheduled basis on my '98 since new. About 197,000 miles later, I'm still on the original stock water pump, and have no problems maintaining normal operating temperatures.

Not a drop of water out of the water pump weep hole, and still turns true. But with that much mileage, I'm beginning to wonder if maybe I'm pushing my luck.....I'll subscribe to this thread for future reference.
 
I only change mine when I change a cooling system part. But that rarely takes more than 4 years, but lately I have driven so little I am getting into the 6-8 year range with out changing my coolant. Mileage and tiny head gasket leaks take the major toll on coolant!!!! The Combustion gasses have CO2 that leaks past the head gasket in very small (or large) quantities on every head gasket. The CO2 reacts with water making carbonic acid that lowers the Coolant pH!!!!! The Coolant neutralizes it up to a point, but at some point it starts to rapidly precipitate sodium silicate, liquid glass, which looks like white concrete that scales up the internal heat transfer surfaces with a non heat conductive scale, like boiler scale.

Adding tap water is just as bad as the hard water minerals, calcium and magnesium, in the water do the same thing.
 
The Coolant neutralizes it up to a point, but at some point it starts to rapidly precipitate sodium silicate, liquid glass, which looks like white concrete that scales up the internal heat transfer surfaces with a non heat conductive scale, like boiler scale.
I like using commercial test strips for checking the condition of the coolant and brake fluid, especially on vehicles that are not driven a lot.
No need to have to coolant or brake fluid go bad and cause problems.
No need to change the fluids, if it is still within specs.
http://www.cooltrak.com
http://www.acustrip.com/cgi-bin/proddesc.cgi?s=BST3001http://www.acustrip.com/coolant.html
 
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