I have 89 with a 91HO in it. I have a HV oil pump pressure is about 58 to 62lbs cold idle and about 45lbs warm. Pressure is about 60lbs at cruising speed. Had to change a distributor gear cause it was almost completely wore down. I thinking i might have some camshaft walk. Does anybody have any experience with this? Should I change my oil pump?, run different oil weight? Or maybe different spring in cam button? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
Camshaft walk?
- Thread starter kevinde1
- Start date
- Location
- Sheboygan, WI
Usually the distributor gear is designed to be the weak link in the timing system and is ment to wear before anything else because it is cheap to replace.
how many miles are on the engine?
how many miles are on the engine?
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
If you still want to use the HV pump and not kill the dis gears I would suggest getting direct oiling to the cam gear. I would also run nothing heavier than 10w30 in the summer and maybe even a 0 weight in the winter. Also, check the cam gear for damage. What is the history of the engine? Any reason you went with a HV pump? Did you replace the oil pump or is what it came with?
I moved my stock oil pressure sender to the rear of the block like WJs and TJs. I wanted to move it there anyhow as I felt it gave a better reading of final oil pressure. I then put the source in the adapter on the block where the oil sensed originally was. I then drilled and tapped the side of the block behind the gear for 1/8" NPT thread. On the first version I used copper tubing and worked it down to form a .020" nozzle. It worked fine, but I wasn't happy with it as the copper line will get brittle over time from vibration and it wasn't all that reusable if I wanted to remove it.
On my second version I went with a stainless .015" nozzle from McMaster Carr (IIRC) and used a hose to connect the two. This makes it removable and long lasting. I also replaced the stock pressure sender adapter with a brass T so I could run an aftermarket oil temperature sensor.
Both of these versions sprayed a steady stream of oil on the gear just while priming the oil pump with a drill. So, it really does a good job of lubing it.
For cam walk I removed that goofy spring and pin setup and just replaced it with a solid steel pin, cut to size for .008" of cam end play. I had been planning on fabricating a nose on the exterior of the timing chain cover out of aluminum and using a SBC roller cam button. That was until I realized that my serpentine belt went right over the exact spot where the cam is.
I moved my stock oil pressure sender to the rear of the block like WJs and TJs. I wanted to move it there anyhow as I felt it gave a better reading of final oil pressure. I then put the source in the adapter on the block where the oil sensed originally was. I then drilled and tapped the side of the block behind the gear for 1/8" NPT thread. On the first version I used copper tubing and worked it down to form a .020" nozzle. It worked fine, but I wasn't happy with it as the copper line will get brittle over time from vibration and it wasn't all that reusable if I wanted to remove it.
On my second version I went with a stainless .015" nozzle from McMaster Carr (IIRC) and used a hose to connect the two. This makes it removable and long lasting. I also replaced the stock pressure sender adapter with a brass T so I could run an aftermarket oil temperature sensor.
Both of these versions sprayed a steady stream of oil on the gear just while priming the oil pump with a drill. So, it really does a good job of lubing it.
For cam walk I removed that goofy spring and pin setup and just replaced it with a solid steel pin, cut to size for .008" of cam end play. I had been planning on fabricating a nose on the exterior of the timing chain cover out of aluminum and using a SBC roller cam button. That was until I realized that my serpentine belt went right over the exact spot where the cam is.
Thats an interesting setup but it looks like I would have to pull the motor again and i just put it in a couple weeks ago. The motor has 120k, I went through it, everything looked fine but I went ahead and put new bearings, rings and valve train. I used the HV oil pump just because i figured better oiling wouldn't hurt. I read alot of post where people used the HV Oil Pump without problems but it seems that every MOD requires another. I've got so much money sunk into this thing I'm gonna have to drive it 10yrs just to get my money's worth, LOL. The cam gear seems ok I put another distributor in and there wasn't hardly any slack in the dizzy. But I checked it yesterday and it already is starting show some wear on the gear thats what is leading me to believe i have some cam walk.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
For the oiling mod you would have to remove the engine because a) I doubt you could drill and tap with any precision with the engine in the bay and b) to clean out the metal shavings from the block.
For the cam walk you can do this with the engine in the vehicle. I would remove the oil pan and of course timing cover. Possibly unbolt the rockers to relieve pressure on the cam so you cam easily measure play. From there find you a suitable rod for the bolt and check the end plat with the timing cover on. Shorten the rod until you have your desired end play. Keep in mind that the timing cover gasket will add ot the end play, so take that into consideration when calculating end play or just test the end plat with a new gasket in place.
For the cam walk you can do this with the engine in the vehicle. I would remove the oil pan and of course timing cover. Possibly unbolt the rockers to relieve pressure on the cam so you cam easily measure play. From there find you a suitable rod for the bolt and check the end plat with the timing cover on. Shorten the rod until you have your desired end play. Keep in mind that the timing cover gasket will add ot the end play, so take that into consideration when calculating end play or just test the end plat with a new gasket in place.