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Engine Swap; remove with trans or no?

SouthSeaPirate

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Florida
Got a 98 ZJ Im about to put in my 01 XJ.
Trying to find out if it's easier to remove engine with trans and case, or remove engine alone.
Keep in mind I have a dirt/rock/grass driveway Im working with. Also, that I have an NV3550; so I have a shaft to line up as well.

Any tips for any part of the process greatly appreciated! :guitar:
 
Seems to me it would be easier to take out all at once

I have seen both responses. Neither of which had a response as to why or if they did it one way or another.

FWIW, I am thinking the same. Would be easier to pull all, but that was also a dream in which I had a concrete drive :laugh::laugh::laugh:
 
I haven't pulled an Xj motor but I think unless there's a reason to have the trans out, leave it. If you want to clean, paint, inspect, replace anything on the trans do pull it and do it all. Don't pull it just to put ot back in as is.
 
Either way make sure you inspect the freeze plugs on the back of the motor, and change out the front tranny seal while it's separated at the very least.

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I always pull trans with. I find it easier to put back in if I don't have to line up the torque converter too. I drop drive shafts and tease then pull motor and tranny as a while


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With a front clip off helps and the radiator out of course. Will your AC condenser be left on?
You can lower your front end also to help with egress. Transmission left on is less stuff to mess with under the Jeep.
 
With a front clip off helps and the radiator out of course. Will your AC condenser be left on?
You can lower your front end also to help with egress. Transmission left on is less stuff to mess with under the Jeep.

AC is planned to be untouched, however, I do have all the items to service the system. Is it possible to leave the condenser in and still have useful clearance?

From what I can tell is the same stuff must be done with the trans in or out. Due to mine being a manual, to line up, the trans must be slid back. All which requires the same parts removed. Please tell me if Im wrong or right here.
 
I separated trans and engine. set the a/c off to the side as well as the power steering. with a tilting bracket was able to sneak it out. I have a 3" lift on 31's.
 
Having done it a dozen times, only one of them seperated in-bay, I will continue to pull the whole driveline, especially with a manual. This is assuming you have a hoist that can go far enough up and a load leveler, both cheap at harbor freight.

If you do it on dirt, make sure there is room to push the jeep back, probably easier than moving the wheels of the hoist on dirt.
 
when I did mine, I pulled Engine, trans, transfer case, and front drive shaft as Unit.

was not my plan, but due to a rounded bolts I found it easier to do it this way and work on separating them after they where out.

Install was engine and trans transfer case install afterwards, front drive shaft, well that is still not back in place.
 
AC is planned to be untouched, however, I do have all the items to service the system. Is it possible to leave the condenser in and still have useful clearance?

From what I can tell is the same stuff must be done with the trans in or out. Due to mine being a manual, to line up, the trans must be slid back. All which requires the same parts removed. Please tell me if Im wrong or right here.

Can anyone answer me on this?
Tia
 
Can anyone answer me on this?
Tia

Yes!!

Remove air cleaner assembly. Flop power steering pump into it's void. Leave connected.
Remove battery. Flop the AC compressor into that void.
Remove the radiator. Super easy.

Unbolt the motor mounts by removing both bolts holding them to the frame piece. Go back together that way also. Then you don't have to fight the crossbolts.
I part out XJs as a hobby. I've pulled more engines out of these things than you can imagine.

When separating engine from trans always loosen/remove the uppermost bolts FIRST before any others. They are a reverse Torx style.

A better and more comp;ete version will soon become Tip 39 on my website.
 
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So you still pull engine alone even when you're pulling teans too??

Also that actually didnt answer my wuestion lol. See quote ;)
Thank crusier
 
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AC is planned to be untouched, however, I do have all the items to service the system. Is it possible to leave the condenser in and still have useful clearance?

From what I can tell is the same stuff must be done with the trans in or out. Due to mine being a manual, to line up, the trans must be slid back. All which requires the same parts removed. Please tell me if Im wrong or right here.
First, my XJ is a different year, but the condenser had enough flex hose that I could move it out of the way without opening that system.

Second, I have R&R'd a manual transmission in only one XJ, and question how far the transmission needs to move to clear the transmission input shaft from the clutch pressure plate.

Third, which is closely related to second, make pilot studs for mating the engine to the transmission! I beat myself up on more than a few swaps and clutch jobs before learning this trick: Whatever diameter-pitch bolts fit at the 9 & 3 o'clock positions, buy the same diameter-pitch bolts, in the greatest length available, and cut the heads off. When it is time to mate the assemblies, install the studs and use them to align the parts, and bear part of the load while you make the finer adjustments.

$.02
 


I have 7' ceilings in my garage/basement, obviously not enough head room for an engine hoist. Not the best conditions, should be obvious as to why I separated the engine/trans.

Even under the best of conditions, I'd do the same again, especially working alone.

If you have a buddy to help.........pull them both, if not, separate.

It's not that much work to drop the trans first.
 
First, my XJ is a different year, but the condenser had enough flex hose that I could move it out of the way without opening that system.

Second, I have R&R'd a manual transmission in only one XJ, and question how far the transmission needs to move to clear the transmission input shaft from the clutch pressure plate.

Third, which is closely related to second, make pilot studs for mating the engine to the transmission! I beat myself up on more than a few swaps and clutch jobs before learning this trick: Whatever diameter-pitch bolts fit at the 9 & 3 o'clock positions, buy the same diameter-pitch bolts, in the greatest length available, and cut the heads off. When it is time to mate the assemblies, install the studs and use them to align the parts, and bear part of the load while you make the finer adjustments.

$.02

I am not sure what you mean by pilot studs and all that.

To slide back the trans, do I have to remove everything? Shifter, wires, slave, driveshafts?



I have 7' ceilings in my garage/basement, obviously not enough head room for an engine hoist. Not the best conditions, should be obvious as to why I separated the engine/trans.

Even under the best of conditions, I'd do the same again, especially working alone.

If you have a buddy to help.........pull them both, if not, separate.

It's not that much work to drop the trans first.

Wow that's gorgeous!

I do indeed have a friend helping. We're doing it over at his place which has a concrete drive. All we have tho is a standard engine hoist (cherry picker). Also, remember, mine is a manual
 
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