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Front axle options...

rcmf5525

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
Mobile, AL
I have been looking around for D60s for a while now. I have seen all the threads on the swap and studied all the pictures. I just cant see paying $1000ish for an axle that I would have to do a lot of work to get it under my rig. I was wondering about the possibility of getting one of the Chevy 1ton front axles and modifying it so it is a drivers side drop. Has anyone done this? I have found plenty of 1ton GM axles for reasonable prices thought it might be an option. Of course, I am a cherry when it comes to axle tech, but I dont see why you couldnt just cut the long side off to the length you wanted it and weld the piece of tube to the other side. That was very dumbed down, but is that possible?

If I am way off here I am sure I will get blown in place, but I am ok with that....
 
You could absolutely do that. It would be very time-consuming, labor-intensive, and costly, but you could do it.

For the money, you could build up several D30's to reasonable levels and drive them until they broke, IMO. Unless you're into huge rocks, lots of power, and extremely aggressive driving, a D60 in the front is overkill. But people do it, so yes, it can be done.
 
rcmf5525 said:
I have been looking around for D60s for a while now. I have seen all the threads on the swap and studied all the pictures. I just cant see paying $1000ish for an axle that I would have to do a lot of work to get it under my rig. I was wondering about the possibility of getting one of the Chevy 1ton front axles and modifying it so it is a drivers side drop. Has anyone done this? I have found plenty of 1ton GM axles for reasonable prices thought it might be an option. Of course, I am a cherry when it comes to axle tech, but I dont see why you couldnt just cut the long side off to the length you wanted it and weld the piece of tube to the other side. That was very dumbed down, but is that possible?

If I am way off here I am sure I will get blown in place, but I am ok with that....
There are plenty of threads out there reguarding the various D60s swaps. Some searching will turn up a ton of information.

You have a few options as well, some (like Vetteboy) have kept the passanger drop and just worked around it by using a different t-case (I believe he used a D300).

Another is what you mentioned above. However, without proper sleeving and trussing that rewelded tube you might run into issues.

I do agree that finding that "perfect" D60 is not easy. However, it is possible. Heck '79 Ford HP D60 goes for (in good shape) about $750-1000, I didn't pay anything near that and all mine needed was new rotors to be in running shape (not under a XJ running, but you get my point). I'd be interested to see what the cost of your GM D60 would be... after you purchase it and spend the cash reworking the tubes I don't think you'll be ahead by much, if anything.

As for the "cherry when it comes to axle tech" comment; everyone has to start somewhere. I learned almost everything I know from trial and error and time in the garage. :)
 
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I've seen pumkins housings for sale with no axle tubes for a couple of hundred. Seems to me there's no real cheap way into a front D60.
 
98XJROKS said:
I've seen pumkins housings for sale with no axle tubes for a couple of hundred.
This doesn't make much sense to me; you've still got to purchase tubes, C's, knuckles, shafts, hubs, etc. The only way that makes sense to me is if someone was swaping them for high dollar parts anyway. Yet in that case, why start with a stock D60 center and not something spendy like the rest of it at that point?

98XJROKS said:
Seems to me there's no real cheap way into a front D60.

Depends on what you define as cheap.... :laugh:

Another point I forgot to mention in my previous post was to get out and look for them actively. Tell your friends, family neighbors that you're looking for 1ton axles. No need to be specific with D60 because you'll be making sure of that before you buy it. The problem with forum sales and JYs are that that know what they have and what it is worth. I got mine for cheap as one of my friends saw "Big Heavy axles for cheap" with a phone number in the want ad. Get creative and you'll find what you're looking for.
 
:thumbup: i agree youll never find one on special at the junk yard. not even worth trying there. up here :canada: someone is selling late 70's f350 4x f60/r60 eng and trans running, frame and sheet metal no good. for 2000, but for that you need to have a place to put it while you take the peices and swap them on yours, and youll also need to dispose of the truck carcass when your done. if you could build your own brackets and wanted to keep it as trail-only type, this would be a good find. but if your looking to d60 your DD, narrow it, and put it on the freeway etc, with lockers, etc. your in for a $1000 everytime you decide to throw money at it. (ie non lincoln locked, or custom axleshafts with ctm's etc) building this thing isnt cheap and 1000 for a axle that fully built is worth about 5 thatll also hold like 38-40" tires and rarely if ever leave you busted somewhere. is what your lookin for, then the initial investment is usually worth the end results.
 
jeppo said:
front d44's 'll hold 36-37's if upgraded and not abused, how big r you tires???

It isnt how big my tires are that I am worried about. I will go with 35s or 37s when I get some axles built. I know, I am going to bash them on stuff with 35s, but that is what skids are for. LOL. :)

I am stroking a 4.0L right now. I know D44 will hold up to 35s, maybe larger, when they are built, but that isnt with 300+ ftlbs of torque. If I am going to build a set of axles, it will be D60.
 
running the 44 with 33's is like running the 60 with 35's anyways. the ring gear is bigger and ground clearance less as such. ive seen full size gms on 36's with d44's flog them hard heck even a stock one 'll run 35s with just a peformance axle shaft. if you dont run rocks you can probably get 37's and these are with 350's pushing about 400hp/400ft.lb and even 454's and the like, in vehicles that wiegh a extra ton. u need to ask your self if you need the 60 and if you are, they are expensive, cuz of the enigma of having one, and they rarely break.
 
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jeppo said:
running the 44 with 33's is like running the 60 with 35's anyways. the ring gear is bigger and ground clearance less as such. ive seen full size gms on 36's with d44's flog them hard heck even a stock one 'll run 35s with just a peformance axle shaft. if you dont run rocks you can probably get 37's and these are with 350's pushing about 400hp/400ft.lb and even 454's and the like, in vehicles that wiegh a extra ton. u need to ask your self if you need the 60 and if you are, they are expensive, cuz of the enigma of having one, and they rarely break.

My logic is: If I were to build a stout D44 that is going to cost me. If I build a stock D60 it will cost me as much as the D44, maybe less, and wont break (as easily). I would hate to spend a couple grand on a built D44 and break it, knowing I could have spent the same amout on a D60 and it would have handled the abuse. I know I would loose a little ground clearance but the added security is worth it. Just my opinion...
 
good opinion, i agree with that. but a built xj 44 is a terrific thing, and there are no shortage of guys around here with d30s that'd love to buy it off you. if you decide to upgrade, the d60 is 1500-2000 extra over the 44 and d60s are really only useful if youre running 500+ horses in the mud, or you are running 37's and up in the rocks, and if you are, be prepared to fix your transfercase cuz the stock 231 or 242 etc arent gear driven and your chain'll snap with the added wieght of big tires and axles,

im not trying to discourage you. if you do rockcrawling and run big tires and need a beefy drivetrain i totally reccomend the 60. but if you dont need it, why build a custom overkill that costs too much.
 
jeppo said:
good opinion, i agree with that. but a built xj 44 is a terrific thing, and there are no shortage of guys around here with d30s that'd love to buy it off you. if you decide to upgrade, the d60 is 1500-2000 extra over the 44 and d60s are really only useful if youre running 500+ horses in the mud, or you are running 37's and up in the rocks, and if you are, be prepared to fix your transfercase cuz the stock 231 or 242 etc arent gear driven and your chain'll snap with the added wieght of big tires and axles,

im not trying to discourage you. if you do rockcrawling and run big tires and need a beefy drivetrain i totally reccomend the 60. but if you dont need it, why build a custom overkill that costs too much.

Im guessing a stock 60 with bullet proof U joints is as strong as a built 44. I could be wrong...
 
did you consider front and rear 9"s from currie

yea i know they arent cheap

but i think it is a better solution for most people unless you have a full shop at your fingertips
 
bandit455 said:
did you consider front and rear 9"s from currie

yea i know they arent cheap

but i think it is a better solution for most people unless you have a full shop at your fingertips

I would love a set, but for that much money I could have a sweet set of 60 self made and I would have the pride knowing I built them. Kind of hokie, but that is how I feel about it...
 
spidertrax 609 housing with BJ inner knuckles - $700
truehi9 diff (detroit, geared, 35 spline) - 2100
2005 JY Dodge ball joint outer knuckles with unit bearings, brakes, high steer, and stubs - 400? depends on the yard...
custom inners and spicer u-joints 600


that is about the cheapest, best axle out there...

cheaper and higher clearance than the 44 I have in my junk...
 
well if youre not scared yet look here:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/index.html

also ask anyone who drag races, d60's arent impossible to break, they do break just very rarely. if you buy one from a vehichle thats used, expect to have to change the brakes and bearings, old peices like shafts and tubes suffer metal fatigue, so a 30 year old stock d60 shaft could still possibly break at the flange if you grind it for turning radius and install a modern lifetime warranty joint.

aswell, a stock d60 was never offered in these so the money you save by keeping it fullwidth, will be spent on steering components.

i looked at a no so recent price sheet and for a new 60 its 5000, + brakes + locker + spring mounts.

if you do decide to build your own, you might be able to build it for 3ish check the d60 build up at offroad.com and youll understand the ins and outs of buying and rebuilding a used one.
 
jeppo said:
also ask anyone who drag races, d60's arent impossible to break, they do break just very rarely.

That is my point exactly! Not many have the HP or TQ numbers people that run D60s at the drag strip have...
 
and they also do not have ujoints and steering, i just meant lots of people say " the d60 is bulletproof" it isnt, it is very strong, and heavy and since when you break it on the trail nobody expected it to break, they wont have spares. most drag racers "almost bulletproof"
 
if you wnt a comprehensive list of just about all of the D60 an d D70 fronts PM me with an email address. I have it on MS Excel.
As for trail repairs, the full floaters are the easiest. yu just unbolt and pull ** yes that is simplified, but name a faster axle shaft swap than a full float.

I think my 1000 axle willout last most well build HD44's and if you want you can get more clearence than te 44's

X2 on the D60's being over kill unless you are wanting super stout for rocks.
Big Danas are very cheap to comeby if you pck the right vehicles
 
AI am typing with my left hand, the right is broken. Sorry for the mis-spells
 
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