Wanderingwest1979
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Alberta
Hi all, I'm new here, been a creeper for awhile. Thought I'd contribute something for my first post.
I'm not new to jeeps, I own 3 of them, and have owned 7 in total.
I am in the middle of installing and Old man emu lift on my 99 sport. I chose to replace all the control arm bushings in the process. Before all my parts got here I decided to round up all new fasteners as from past experience I knew some bolts would break or have to be cut out.
I could not find everything I was looking for in one place on line. And some posts led me to buying the wrong bolts.
So I decided to compile my own list here, and share it with you folks.
The bolts I used were standard bolts, no flange heads so I added a washer to either side. I have included nuts for the bar pin side of the shocks as like most, mine broke and I needed to fish new ones through the unibody. Some of these bolts may be a little shorter then factory, but unlike the factory bolts, these were cold rolled threads and they didn't go all the way down the bolt.
I have confirmed each and every one of these.
ALL HARDWARE IS GRADE 10.9! I have been told 10.9 is stronger then grade 8, feel free to correct me if I am wrong.
4- Upper control arms- M10x1.5x80mm (4 nuts required)
4- Lower Control arms- M14x2.0x120mm (4 nuts required)
4- Leaf springs/ shackles- M14x2.0x110mm (2 nuts required at shackle, frame side eye is welded nut)
4- Front sway bar at frame- M10x1.5x30mm
16- Shocks at bar pins- M8x1.25x35mm (with nuts, 4x lock washers if your rear bolts break and you have to go fishing)
1- Track bar bolt- M10x1.5x70mm (try to reuse factory nut)
2- Front sway bar end link stud at axle- M12x1.75 nuts
2- lower shock stud at rear axle- M12x1.75 nuts
2- front spring retainer- M8x1.25x25mm
Remember, factory bolts are flange head nipple tipped. If you aren't getting flanged heads, you will need washers, 2 per bolt.
I would highly recommend giving the Jeep a PB bath beforehand. Take note, for the frame side leaf eye bolts, you can get to the captured nut welded to the frame via a small hole in the frame just behind it. If you have a trailer hitch, the rear shackle bolts at the leafs will have to be cut out unless you want to remove the hitch.
Also, I would suggest you get yourself a good metric tap and die kit to chase any threads that you cannot replace like the sway bar mounts and the front leaf spring eyes. Last thing you want is used dirty threads making an impact on your torque settings.
Replacing control arm bushings was easy, a ball peen hammer and a block of wood is all that is required to remove and install (Google that), or ask me and I can post a video. Everyone said not to do more then one control arm at a time, but I don't listen and managed just fine. A 2-3" wide ratchet strap 10' long and slings made short work of pulling the axle into place.
Cheers!
I'm not new to jeeps, I own 3 of them, and have owned 7 in total.
I am in the middle of installing and Old man emu lift on my 99 sport. I chose to replace all the control arm bushings in the process. Before all my parts got here I decided to round up all new fasteners as from past experience I knew some bolts would break or have to be cut out.
I could not find everything I was looking for in one place on line. And some posts led me to buying the wrong bolts.
So I decided to compile my own list here, and share it with you folks.
The bolts I used were standard bolts, no flange heads so I added a washer to either side. I have included nuts for the bar pin side of the shocks as like most, mine broke and I needed to fish new ones through the unibody. Some of these bolts may be a little shorter then factory, but unlike the factory bolts, these were cold rolled threads and they didn't go all the way down the bolt.
I have confirmed each and every one of these.
ALL HARDWARE IS GRADE 10.9! I have been told 10.9 is stronger then grade 8, feel free to correct me if I am wrong.
4- Upper control arms- M10x1.5x80mm (4 nuts required)
4- Lower Control arms- M14x2.0x120mm (4 nuts required)
4- Leaf springs/ shackles- M14x2.0x110mm (2 nuts required at shackle, frame side eye is welded nut)
4- Front sway bar at frame- M10x1.5x30mm
16- Shocks at bar pins- M8x1.25x35mm (with nuts, 4x lock washers if your rear bolts break and you have to go fishing)
1- Track bar bolt- M10x1.5x70mm (try to reuse factory nut)
2- Front sway bar end link stud at axle- M12x1.75 nuts
2- lower shock stud at rear axle- M12x1.75 nuts
2- front spring retainer- M8x1.25x25mm
Remember, factory bolts are flange head nipple tipped. If you aren't getting flanged heads, you will need washers, 2 per bolt.
I would highly recommend giving the Jeep a PB bath beforehand. Take note, for the frame side leaf eye bolts, you can get to the captured nut welded to the frame via a small hole in the frame just behind it. If you have a trailer hitch, the rear shackle bolts at the leafs will have to be cut out unless you want to remove the hitch.
Also, I would suggest you get yourself a good metric tap and die kit to chase any threads that you cannot replace like the sway bar mounts and the front leaf spring eyes. Last thing you want is used dirty threads making an impact on your torque settings.
Replacing control arm bushings was easy, a ball peen hammer and a block of wood is all that is required to remove and install (Google that), or ask me and I can post a video. Everyone said not to do more then one control arm at a time, but I don't listen and managed just fine. A 2-3" wide ratchet strap 10' long and slings made short work of pulling the axle into place.
Cheers!
Where did you buy the various bolts? I've found just about everything I need at Fastenal all the bolts added up to almost $100. I'd like to see your lift when you are finished as I am also lifting my 96 XJ using old man emu components. Thanks
