Home made SYE

Hey..

just thinkin.. has anyone made there own SYE?? could you just get a york bolt it to the shaft, with the end hoseing still on..??

pm "old man"

drbobxj said:

Hey..

just thinkin.. has anyone made there own SYE?? could you just get a york bolt it to the shaft, with the end hoseing still on..??

Click to expand...

yeah, there was a GREAT writeup. Do a search here.
Billy

OK - here's a hint...

Search "Poor Man's SYE", and see what you get. Look for the post started by old_man - all his idea.

5-90

also look for:

"Okie Terry" and "242 SYE"

5-90 said:

OK - here's a hint...

Search "Poor Man's SYE", and see what you get. Look for the post started by old_man - all his idea.

5-90

Click to expand...

Did exactly what you said. No dice.
I did find the piece OK did about machining a yoke and spider and fitting them.

A real low budget SYE was descibed to me by a friend who ran this exact setup for years.
Press off your stock Yoke. Slide it on and drill/tap a hole up the middle for a fine thread bolt. Bolt it on and take your stock shaft down and have them install a slip joint.
Here's the hard part> Press your U-Joint back on your yoke, on the truck and install the rear joint. He had a 96' with the external slip, and I think he had to shorten the Yoke before he could bolt it on.

Zuki-Ron said:

Did exactly what you said. No dice.

Click to expand...

Searched for threads started by old_man. Page six if you search all open forums. Page one if you just search modified tech.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29290

I did it with a 27 spline Spicer CV style slip yoke that was cut down to work with the seal housing from an RE hack & tap. I'm now able to run a front shaft in the rear. Total investment is about $140. So far, so good.

The difficulty would be getting the seal housing and justifying spending that much on it just it unless you have a friend with a late model rig that could take the flange and do his own H&T. I was lucky in that a buddy had a spare one laying around. Not sure what options exist there.

If it were a later model t-case with the boot instead of the tailshaft cone, it should be fairly straightforward.

Thanks for finding that, I sure couldn't
Nice write up!

Now, as I read it, this is a "Hack N Tap" arrangement.
The part for a 96' and up from RE is RE1807 and will cost a bit over double the stated
$40 for the Currie part Tom found.

,Ron

John90XJ said:

I did it with a 27 spline Spicer CV style slip yoke that was cut down to work with the seal housing from an RE hack & tap. I'm now able to run a front shaft in the rear. Total investment is about $140. So far, so good.

Click to expand...

Do you have a PN for that yoke?

Zuki-Ron said:

Do you have a PN for that yoke?

Click to expand...

http://www.arizonadrivelines.com/

It's listed as a CV style for a Wrangler I believe. It's just a 27 spline slip yoke with a Spicer style CV end on it. I've been told they were used in mid '80's Fords, Mercurys and Lincolns as well so there might be a junkyard source. I paid $99 for it, some have found it for as little $60 elsewhere from what I've heard.

I tacked on a heavy washer on the joint end and drilled it. I then hacked and tapped and put it together once the measurements were figured out.

I had been running about 4 inches of lift with an extended TW shaft but the stock setup with single Cardans. When I lifted a little higher an SYE was mandated and, being cheap, this is what I came up with.

There are no vibes in comparison to the old setup, it's very smooth and so far the XJ front shaft is doing well. I reviewed the Spicer manual for shaft diameter and critical speed and all the front shaft spec's work for a rear shaft so I'm pretty sure this will be adequate long term.

It's primarily a wheeling rig but when it's on the highway the only NVH is from the tires and lack of rear carpet. The drivetrain isn't making nearly as much noise anymore.

Zuki-Ron said:

A real low budget SYE was descibed to me by a friend who ran this exact setup for years.
Press off your stock Yoke. Slide it on and drill/tap a hole up the middle for a fine thread bolt. Bolt it on and take your stock shaft down and have them install a slip joint.
Here's the hard part> Press your U-Joint back on your yoke, on the truck and install the rear joint. He had a 96' with the external slip, and I think he had to shorten the Yoke before he could bolt it on.

Click to expand...

I ran that on my '97 for awhile, worked just fine. When I went bigger, I passed it on to a friend with a '96 and he is still running it.