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Just starting out - Advice Pls

As I said above, I'll be the outlier here. Being in your 70's, are you going to be willing to not only do a lot of the manual work required or will you need to pay for the labor in addition to the parts. Labor costs will kill your budget in a heartbeat. There is also the factor of having to climb in and out of a lifted rig. It really sounds like you won't be beating this thing up and just want to get off the beaten path and just need to freshen up the suspension and maybe the steering if your tie rod ends are loose. Someone said it earlier, once you start the 'upgrade' process, it sets you down a path where you need to suddenly change a bunch of things that were just fine before. Be careful of that. I'd love to spend your money but based on what you're saying, you don't really need more than just the periodic maintenance items to be freshened up and you're good.
Edit: The one thing I think I missed is recovery points. Trailer hitch in the back and tow hooks up front just in case you do get into a pickle.
 
Right...I ain't crawling under a car any more. Now if you need advice on restoring an old MGB...I can help ya! Have a neighbor kid whose a cert. mechanic...he'll do the work at very low cost...thankfully!
 
Thanks guys! That's a lot of info to chew on...and good warnings about what NOT to do. Lemme go over all this. I'm in no rush...got a broken ankle that's gonna keep me down for a month or more. I'm leaning to a moderate 2 inch lift and new rear springs for now. If things progress...I'll move up from there.

Also...not going to be doing the work myself...those days are over. Lucky to have a neighbor youngin' who's a helluva trained mechanic...and a big garage...so getting stuff installed isn't gonna kill the wallet.

And if any of y'all need advice on rebuilding/restoring an old MGB...I can offer good advice...been down that road several times with my '71 MG and a batch of Triumphs !!!
 
ehall said:
31s will rub unless he cuts it up or lifts it over 3.5"
Click to expand...

I got 31's to work with 1.75 inches of lift with only minor rubbing on the lower control arms (at full crank) and no fender trimming. It took only one hockey puck per side as bumpstop adjustment. Granted I have the older body style (a "96) unlike the OP who has a "98.
 
Rod Knee said:
I got 31's to work with 1.75 inches of lift with only minor rubbing on the lower control arms (at full crank) and no fender trimming. It took only one hockey puck per side as bumpstop adjustment. Granted I have the older body style (a "96) unlike the OP who has a "98.
Click to expand...
I mean with articulation. One of the local guys here put 3" RC lift and 31s on his 00, and tore the flares off first time out on the trails
 
OME or factory upcountry springs is what I'd do. I would think 1.5"-2.5" would be plenty. And either run 29" or 30" tires and call it good.


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I would go as far as to add a locker in the front. For the lift the factory upcountry lift package with new springs and good set of tires would do fine for trail riding. Everything else should work fine with that option without any issues.Tow points are always forgotten until they are needed. That is the one item Jeep left out on the Cherokee that was a necessity and should have been on it from the factory with that cheesy bumper they installed!
 
You can always do a budget lift (Add a leafs in the rear spacers in the front and a set of new shocks). An LSD in the rear if you don't have one already. 30 inch tires maybe 31,s if you don't mind a little fender trimming and a set of Quik Discos sway bar links. Take off the rear sway bar if you have not already you don't need it. If you have 3.73 or even 3.55 gears you can get by without a gear change. If you exploring on your own get a winch and good bumper.
 
Some of you are forgetting that the OP intends to build only for mild trail use. He doesn't need a locker. Light armor and recovery equipment are always a good idea, but he needs very little beyond those items.
 
OP is original poster. I will have to agree with those that are saying put some decent tires on her and wheel it. This will allow you to see what it can do on the terrain you want to run. You can decide what you need or lack from there. Also get to know your local members, I have found that most will be willing to help one way or another.
 
Palmetto, you live in the South so I am guessing that rust is not a big issue, but you might check to see if your front leaf spring bolts are seized before you buy leaf packs. If they do present a problem you can wed new leaf packs to your existing main springs. I was advised not to do this with old man emu leaf packs but I do not remember why doing so would have presented a problem. What I did was buy the HD leaf packs from quadratec and attached them to my main leafs, which is something that had been written up in this forum. I ended up with just under 2 inches of lift in back.

When I was done lifting in this manner my XJ handled better than stock, although stiffening things up with aftermarket bumpers and my transfer case skid plate may have been a big part of the handling improvement. Remember, everything you do is for reasons of safety and reliability, or at least that is the story you could stick to!
 
Last edited:
Longarms, lockers, 4.88s, armor, hood vents, flares, disk conversion, chromos, rcvs, etc - min for trail riding.

Actually - fresh coils/leafs, remove rear swaybar, front sway swaybar disconnect, shocks, bumpstops. Run it!
 
Thanks...just had to kid about "OP". There's a trail run coming up soon...I think I'll have mechanic check out everything. Pretty good street/trail tires are on. Good advice...give it a run...and see what's needed after that.
 
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