• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

collapsed lifter '96 4.0?

Mango

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Denver
Engine =1996 4.0, XJ
Loud ticking sound from valve train.
intermittent, occurs regardless of cold or warm.
#3 plug carbon fouled, all others clean
new wire, cap/rotor.
engine has run Moble 1 5-30 synthetic for the past two years
Mileage is 116K
I have yet to run a compression test
With valve cover off, I watched valvetrain when running, all rockers are moving, all pushrods spinning

I just plugged a bottle of marvel in the crankcase and ran it up and down the freeway for awhile, no change.

If diagnosis is coorect, can I swap the lifters & pushrods out for new on cylinder #3 w/o worrying too much on cam/lifter?
My manual indicates there's a lifter removal tool that can be used to keep from pullnig the head - what's the consesus?

Thanks for your help gang,

Jon
 
I had a problem with the #3 plug fouling out on my 89 with a 4.0. turned out to be a dirty injector electrical connection. Also it seems that the first three spark plugs get more deposits on them, probably due to the crankcase vent air being sucked into the front half of the intake.

The recomended oil is 10W - 30 for the 4.0.

Occasional valve train noise is nothing to realy wory about, unless it is causing it to miss.

as for using the mystery oil, I don't think that it would be needed in your engine since you have been using a synthetic oil which is very highly detergent in nature.

what i would do in your case is
1. check and clean all injector connections
2. use a good injector cleaner in the gas
3. Check oil presure when hot (37 to 75 psi @1600 rpm)

If your oil pressure is low, change your oil with a thicker oil and use a good oil filter like a purolator or mobil - 1.

my $.02
 
i had that problem in my 89. no matter what oil i used, it wouldnt stop ticking. it was also fouling spark plugs, so i decided to replace all the lifters. and while the head was off i removed, cleaned and reseated the valves and installed new valve seals. that was about 8 years ago and dont have any problems.
 
my 91 4.0 was making a terrible noise up top. Turned out to be a 30 Idler pulley going bad.
 
Mango said:
If diagnosis is coorect, can I swap the lifters & pushrods out for new on cylinder #3 w/o worrying too much on cam/lifter?
My manual indicates there's a lifter removal tool that can be used to keep from pullnig the head - what's the consesus?

There's only one "small" problem Jon and that is that you can't replace the lifters without removing the head. The head has to come off first and then the lifter tool is used to remove the lifters from their bores.
You can certainly use new lifters on the old cam (you might as well change all of them) and if the pushrods are worn, replace those too.
It certainly looks like your problem is with the no.3 cylinder. If a lifter's collapsed, it won't push up the pushrod and the rocker that's actuated by that pushrod will hardly move. You might wanna check that out.
 
Thanks for your responses

oil pressure is good.
will change to a little thicker oil tommorow and see if that helps it pump up.

on the lifter puller - does one really need that tool or can something else be used easily enough?
 
By all means, use the tool....it makes life alot easier. You can get one from any local parts place for about $10 or so. It also is invaluable in (re)installing the lifters. It may be one of those "I'm only gonna use it one time" tools, but it works like a charm.
Jeff
 
When you install the new LUBED WITH ASSEMBLY LUBE lifters turn the engine over by hand and measure the amount of lifter travel, they should all be the same, if one is lower than others then the lobe is more than likely worn. Easier to find out while the heads off than after reassembly...
 
I hear you on the possibility of a valve job. I'll be calling a couple shops on Monday to see what their prices and turn around times are.

Good point on measuring the cam lobe height. If I need to yank the cam, can it be done without pulling the engine? Which if I do that, I may as well have the lower end done as well..........
 
scratch that question on whether I need to pull the engine to swap a cam. found the answer.

doesn't seem like that much more work swap a mild cam in at this point..... perhaps Crane's 753905 or 753901. I'm thinking of the 905, with Crane lifters and stock springs.
 
Back
Top