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XJ LM7 5.3 swap

I love the build,

but that Dana35 is not going to live long behind that kind of power.
 
Regarding the trans, install an inline filter and you just might be surprised. Clean fluid and proper filtration make a hell of a difference
 
Regarding the trans, install an inline filter and you just might be surprised. Clean fluid and proper filtration make a hell of a difference

that could be true, but I installed new filter and new ATF but the trans makes a strange grinding sounds and clicks during shift also so I think after 130k mi it is ready to overhaul one way or another
 
I agree with you. But do realize the thing that goes in the pan is by no means a filter. It's more of a strainer. An inline, proper filter, will do a proper job. I suggest Magnefine filters, have them inline on my transmissions and power steering in everything I drive. Put them on the return line from the cooler so ant trash in the cooler is cleaned out, and you will greatly increase the mileage you get out of your equipment.

I'm running a built 700R4, predecessor to the 4L60e (they are quite similar in fact, I'm Using the 5-pinion planetarium out of a 4l60e) and I'm somewhere in the neighborhood of 200k without issue.

Inline filtration and the biggest cooler you can run should be the first things a geared adds to a vehicle he intends to keep.
 
I agree with you. But do realize the thing that goes in the pan is by no means a filter. It's more of a strainer. An inline, proper filter, will do a proper job. I suggest Magnefine filters, have them inline on my transmissions and power steering in everything I drive. Put them on the return line from the cooler so ant trash in the cooler is cleaned out, and you will greatly increase the mileage you get out of your equipment.

I'm running a built 700R4, predecessor to the 4L60e (they are quite similar in fact, I'm Using the 5-pinion planetarium out of a 4l60e) and I'm somewhere in the neighborhood of 200k without issue.

Inline filtration and the biggest cooler you can run should be the first things a geared adds to a vehicle he intends to keep.

do you mean something like that?
http://magnefinefilters.com/NEW-Magnefine-5-16-Magnetic-Inline-Transmission-Filter-R516M-5610000.htm
 

I mean precisely that.

They have recently changed their manufacture from Australia to the US, and from plastic screwed-together to steel, presumably welded.

Also, and FYI- I should note that I replaced the 42RE in my wife's ZJ 7 years ago. I had 6 years on the rebuild, and 95,000 miles without a fluid change (yes, I know. I'm lazy) This was because it's a royal PITA to change the fluid in trannies without a drain plug. The trans started shifting wierd- wouldn't shift till way late, if at all. I'd have to let off the gas and let it slam into gear. Lots of whining and wierd sounds.

I installed one of these and the problem went away. It's been fine since (over a year now) and has never shifted so well.

I can't say it will solve your problem- it likely won't. But for $20, it's not going to hurt, and should have come from the factory to begin with. There is good science behind the idea of this filter- the magnet catches the ferrous particles which are largely responsible for the cascading wear. The filter medium is much finer than that in the pan (as in, actual cellulose filtration media, not a nylon strainer) and I can tell you it does an excellent job.

I was having issues with the hydroboost brakes in my S10 self-applying. Looked at the fluid, it was dirty. I did some research and saw that dirty fluid can hang the spool valve up and apply the brakes. The ONLY change I made was to cut the return line and install one of these properly. Let it run for 5 minutes and the problem went away. The same fluid that had been brown with shiny flecks in it, now looked like it had just come out of the bottle.

Certainly, these are anecdotes. Your mileage may vary, not valid in Puerto Rico, etc..... but there's sound engineering behind it. A clean fluid power system is a happy fluid power system. *Especially* if it's a computer-controlled system (like the 4L60E). Those solenoids tend to attract the crud (steel) I referred to earlier, and get gummed up and start misbehaving.

Just don't get me started on lube oil bypass filtration. ;)
 
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I keep track of my tranny fluid color. I installed an inline filter (at Burnkats suggestion) right before a 6 US state, 2 country 3,300 mile trip, I can say that the trans fluid actually got cleaner (and these where all towing miles). Pretty sure it cost me less than $20. I'm running the 4L60E as well.
 
Glad it's working well for you, Clyde.

One thing to note- these filters have a flow direction marked on them. Follow that, it's crucial.

Why?They have a bypass valve in them. If you forget about it and don't change it, and the filter media gets plugged- the bypass opens. You no longer get the benefits of the cellulose filtration media (but do have the advantage of the magnet), and still have fluid flow so you don't burn the system up.

Put it in backwards, and the bypass valve is slammed shut by fluid pressure. Filter plugs, system starves of lube oil, and burns up.

I bet you money and beer anyone that's had a problem with these filters isn't what you'd call an attentive wrench, and didn't bother to verify proper install. However, it's been my experience that noone that actually runs them has anything bad to say. I've even installed a few in the parking lot of the local Oreilly's for people, to assist with their issues. (I'm the wierd, old guy that hangs out at the parts store, doesn't work there, and helps people out for free between research sessions for my latest project).

FYI- on the 700R4/4L60/4L60E series transmissions, the top line is the return line. That's where you want your filter installed, with the arrow pointing to the tranny. But let's leave Bruce Jenner out of this... ;)
 
BTW, gents-

While the manufacturer's page does have the filters, be advised they charge like $7/filter to ship them. That's ridiculous.

Go to Ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Magnefi...ash=item23884767ca:g:JssAAOSwPWRZWnOl&vxp=mtr That's the same product, $25/filter, shipped to your door.

I just went to order two from the manufacturer's homepage- $54 all up. I can get them for $50 on Ebay. It's not a lot of difference, but 10% is 10%.
 
Indian-

I can't comment for EU and the like. I would imagine there must be a Magnefine distributor in your country- as Magnefine started in Aussieland and distributed worldwide. I mentioned earlier they are now made in the US, I should say my country's distributor is manufacturing here. I don't know if they are still made in Oz as well- this gets into licensing, et al, that I have no clue about.

I've seen the Raybestos part in some 4X boards and car forums. It looked quite similar to the Magnefine product. There did seem to be some QC issues with them, namely with units arriving improperly assembled (not tightened down- the plastic units screw together). Simple check there is to make sure it is screwed shut snugly. Then keep an eye on it- but we should be looking for leaks and such with any motor vehicle to begin with, especially as enthusiasts that tend to tinker.

Didn't mean to take the thread off the rails, just trying to pay back some help I've received in the past. Can't wait till the OPs next installment :)
 
Carquest sells the Magnafine filters, Orly may as well.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
 
small update:
I fabricate some home made gas tank skid plate. I used relative thin sheet metal (2 mm - 14 gauge), but the bottom side has 2 layers. should be strong enough. it is relative solid..

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The next step will be upgrade the brakes. I prepared the parts for WJ knuckle/steering/brakes swap. Had to clean the knuckles, drilled the rotors, buy bottom WJ ball joints, buy spacers and brand new mopar (akebono) upgraded WJ calipers - very nice piece, much bigger than stock XJ calipers. Hope the braking power will be notable better.

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Otherwise I constantly mess with the HP tuners to tune the VE table and MAF calibration to accomplish small fuel trims (+- 2-3 %). It is not so easy like I thought, especially the MAF, but now it is almost done, the WOT AFR is perfect like commanded.

The oil pan is leaking even though I bought new gasket, but I don't know why. I put some sealant on the corners like manual says, tourqued the bolts in order like it should be, but the pan is leaking from behind. If somebody knows the trick, please tell me.
 
Love my WJ brakes. No complaints here. I drove a loaded tandem axle u haul trailer across the country with it and had plenty of braking power. Best upgrade


Awesome build btw, has me thinking I should have swapped a V8 instead of my stroker. :thumbup:
 
small update:
Exhaust - that was a never ending story. First I bought the magnaflow XL chamber muffler, but was too loud for DD, than I bought the Flowmaster 50 delta series - it was a little bit quiter but even thought too loud. The third muffler was the same I used with 4.0 engine but with bigger outlets - dynomax turbomuffler. It was the cheapest but the best sound for me, decent but noticable V8 sound.!

Google "The Story of Goldilocks and the Three Bears" LOL!!!
Sorry...couldn't resist!! In all seriousness that is fantastic work!!!
 
WJ brakes and steering swap almost done. I still have to change the pitman arm for a flat one from TJ to have track bar joints and drag link joints parallel. Had to shorten the drag link and tie rod about 8 cm (3") to match the length of the XJ dana 30.

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Haha Nice!! Congratulations :)
 
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