Axle ubolt question

If they do happen to loosen, don't forget the
double-nut trick. I use it often and it really does
keep things tight. You can then mark the bolt and
nut with a dab of white paint for quick visual checks.

It's also entirely possible that the nuts aren't backing off, but your bolt is stretching. This is why it's generally recommended you replace them whenever replacing leafs.
I've never had an issue re-using (assuming threads are all still good), but I've also never re-used a stock u-bolt. Those things are tiny compared to what I've got on all my axles. Honestly, if you're having to retorque them, just run to a spring shop and have them spin you up a new set of bolts for $20-$40. Get something slightly beefier than stock.

I'm replacing a leaf on mine now. Shopping for new u-bolts and nuts for stock 89 Cherokee 4x4. Not sure what axle it has. Does it make any difference, Dana 35 or 44?

Also wondering if there are any tricks to alignment of the u-bolts and upper plate and axle to do before torquing the u-bolt nuts?

Should I install the u-bolts or spring eye bolts first? I am assuming I want the bushing-eye bolts on the ends of the leaf springs installed and torqued first? is that right?

blistovmhz said:

It's also entirely possible that the nuts aren't backing off, but your bolt is stretching. This is why it's generally recommended you replace them whenever replacing leafs.
I've never had an issue re-using (assuming threads are all still good), but I've also never re-used a stock u-bolt. Those things are tiny compared to what I've got on all my axles. Honestly, if you're having to retorque them, just run to a spring shop and have them spin you up a new set of bolts for $20-$40. Get something slightly beefier than stock.

Click to expand...

Ecomike said:

I'm replacing a leaf on mine now. Shopping for new u-bolts and nuts for stock 89 Cherokee 4x4. Not sure what axle it has. Does it make any difference, Dana 35 or 44?

Click to expand...

Different tube diameters. Measure the spread on the existing u-bolts and order accordingly.

Ecomike said:

I'm replacing a leaf on mine now. Shopping for new u-bolts and nuts for stock 89 Cherokee 4x4. Not sure what axle it has. Does it make any difference, Dana 35 or 44?

Also wondering if there are any tricks to alignment of the u-bolts and upper plate and axle to do before torquing the u-bolt nuts?

Should I install the u-bolts or spring eye bolts first? I am assuming I want the bushing-eye bolts on the ends of the leaf springs installed and torqued first? is that right?

Click to expand...

D35, D44, and 8.25 all are different size tubes. Take an old u-bolt down to your local truck spring shop and they can make you new ones on the spot. Don't be surprised if you need to ask for 1" longer because of different nuts/washers and they will likely be rounded up to the next nearest SAE size. The factory u-bolts are metric. It doesn't matter.

You do NOT torque the spring eye bolts until the Jeep is back on the ground with no floor jacks or jack stands near it! Bushings should ALWAYS be tightened with the weight of the vehicle on the tires.

So, you put the spring in, leaving the bolts loose, then put the u-bolts in, torque them, put the tires on, take the Jeep off jack stands, and then tighten the spring bolts.

lawsoncl said:

Different tube diameters. Measure the spread on the existing u-bolts and order accordingly.

Click to expand...

I'm getting a measurement of about 2-3/4" spread inside of the old u-bolts (a hair under that) so the means the axle Dia is just under 2-3/4" , that sounds too small for what I have been reading, but they fit the axle. I thought the smallest one was the Dana 35 rear axle? Thought it was a 3" axle.

Also the plates that the u-bolts hold down on the leaf pack, are curved, and the u-bolts were bent due to the curvature of the plate. Is that normal?

I will post photos shortly, or a bit later tonight of the plates

8.25 axles have 3" tubes. The Dana 35/44 do not.

md21722 said:

8.25 axles have 3" tubes. The Dana 35/44 do not.

Click to expand...

Starting to look like some sites quote a bolt center to center dimension, and a few others quote the ID, what a goat roping contest for bolt shopping.

Thanks for the photos, was about to post a photo of the rear and search it, mine has the small drain hole, so it must be the Dana 35, which is what it should be, the Chrysler 8.25 looks the same except for the larger drain hole just looking at these photos Other than size, but looking at mine I can not judge the size...). So going by 2.75" shaft OD of the axle and the small drain hole on mine it must be a Dana 35. Thanks.

Seems the bump stops are gone on mine, just the metal base left, and the 2 plates on this one are curved. Not sure if it is OK the reuse the plates? They are not cheap. And I have not found any exact replacements? Some look a-likes and upgrades, and most are super price for a steel plate.

Here are links to my current shopping list.

2 Rear shocks, 2 rear bump stops, possibly 1 leaf spring Plate(s), 2-U-bolts, 4 nuts and washers (2 or 4 bolts?), the 2 main bushing spring eyelet bolts and one nut (not sure yet if I will (or need to) replace the spring and its hardware on the drivers side??? and not sure I want to put another $250 in the other side just replace the one busted spring :tears: that started all this), The passenger side spring was busted. I already bought a $35 shackle I may not need to use (I sure hope I don't need it).

http://www.caseyeose.com/CE-9017 for the u-bolts?

Or https://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Cheroke...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8D7HXT1S8K6G3TKCADYR

OR https://www.quadratec.com/products/56009_101.htm

OR http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-U-Bolts-Dana-35-Axle-84-01-2-75-Inch-Wide-/270866074767
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https://www.morris4x4center.com/mopar-spring-eye-bolt-34202118.html spring bolts
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http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-s...shings-perches/rustys-u-bolt-plates-pair.html Possible new plates? I am having little luck finding what looks the right plate and at a reasonable cost
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https://www.quadratec.com/products/52422_01.htm
or
https://www.amazon.com/Omix-Ada-182...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BZXVQTMYREX6P0RF3G23
OR
https://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Cheroke...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8D7HXT1S8K6G3TKCADYR
Bumper stops

1 Leaf Spring Nut https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...a=X&ved=0ahUKEwjIvaXWjufVAhWC5yYKHWuSC78Q8wIIuQEwAg

2 rear shocks from Rock auto, Gabrials on sale $15/ea

This is only expected to be a spare back up DD. Already spent way more on other repairs, and still need to do the AC overhaul and ......

How about these spring plates? These look right, and are the best deal I have found for stock DD replacement.

http://www.barnes4wd.com/U-Bolt-Plates-275-Springs-Pair-_p_284.html

I think you are making this WAY too complicated and I am one who tends to overthink things ;-)

You should post pictures of your axle and spring plates.

The 8.25 axle has a flat flange on the bottom of the center section whereas the Dana axles don't have anything like that. For the cover, Dana covers are also flat at the bolting flange to their edge whereas the 8.25 has a lip around the edge.

The easiest thing to do is to take your existing u-bolts to your local truck spring shop and tell them to make them 1" longer and round up to the next nearest size.

I usually buy replacement suspension bolts at the dealer but the ones you linked from Morris look appropriate.

I hope you started spraying the bolts last month.

And I'm still confused as to why you are only replacing one spring. Springs should be replaced as a matched set. Good stock replacements are Dorman 929-301 for about $96/each on Amazon. I would not buy the Dorman shackles though as I've tried them and they are pure Chinesium. Bushings were not lined up properly and the bolts were marked Grade 10 but felt like aluminum, yet a magnet stuck to them. The springs are good though. They are Made in Columbia.

Coat the bolts with anti-seize so they come out easy if you ever need to do it again.

Well I am getting close to finally needing to order the bolts.

After spending 4 months, including battling the Harvey flood, a flooded house and shop, we have now finally gotten the rear leaf spring 100% off the spare 87, and recently the rear bolt, it was a true die hard, hat to cut n gut it out in 4 pieces, then the outer steel bushing part on the front bolt, then the rubber, and now after 3 weeks of using a torch, a BFH and chisel, and a massive electric industrial nut buster impact wrench, a dremel tool with a diamond cutting blade, and finally a new air hammer chisel I bought this week, we finally got to the inner steel sleeve on the front bolt, and got it loose enough to spin free of the bolt, LOL.

Now just need that massive industrial electric Impact back on loan from our buddy (my new air powered 600 ft-lbs Impact tool just gets laughed at still).

But repeated heat (torch) on the nut/bolt end, and water soaks to chill and shock it, and then pen lube, and then the impact should finally get it loose now.

May need to hit the sleeve one more time with the Dremel tool/diamond mini wheel to cut the sleeve open closer the rear nut to better access for heating and pen-lubing of the bolt end near the nut/frame area, as we were not able to fully open up and remove the sleeve, just able to detach/un-glue it from the die hard bolt.

Long story short, I see daylight (or is it sun set, LOL) on this endless one afternoon repair nightmare LOL.

Just ordered the u-bolts, nuts, Spring bolts, Runner-snuber, and plate. Hmm, I think I forgot the nut for the rear plate.

OK, now for the $64 $$$$$$$$ question.

How do I get the Da***m rear bolt back in on the new leaf spring. Leaf is on the axle and the front bolt/leaf installed, but need Hercules it seems to bend the leaf spring get rear bolt in.

What's the trick folks!!!

PLEASE!!!!

Ecomike said:

OK, now for the $64 $$$$$$$$ question.

How do I get the Da***m rear bolt back in on the new leaf spring. Leaf is on the axle and the front bolt/leaf installed, but need Hercules it seems to bend the leaf spring get rear bolt in.

What's the trick folks!!!

PLEASE!!!!

Click to expand...

Yeah, the rear shackle is a bastard.... When I did my leaf springs, I used a big alignment punch to help move and hold things in place.

Oh yeah, having a floor jack under the axle to helpen straighten out the leaf spring helps too.

JeepNoob said:

Oh yeah, having a floor jack under the axle to helpen straighten out the leaf spring helps too.

Click to expand...

So step by step what did you do? In what order?

Front bolt first?

Rear bolt second?

Then lower the axle (assuming you used it to push the leaf spring up into place?), and locate the bottom side leaf pin into the axle plate hole as you raised the axle (if needed).

1. Install front bolt. Nothing need to be super-tight with the vehicle up, hand-tight should work.

2. Push/pry shackle forward. This a bastard and a half. Use punches to hold/move things into place. Use a small alignment punch to get things started and then progress to a larger size. You may have to pry the shackle into place with the large alignment punch (the one I have is a Crapsman, 3/16" X 9"), start the bolt through the shackle and into the bushing liner and then knock it through the rest of the way with a BFH while simultaneously knocking out the alignment punch.

3. Use a floor jack to straighten the leaf spring as much as possible without lifting the vehicle. (Since this is how stock springs usually sit in the vehicle.) Use another floor jack to raise the axle.

4. Use the floor jacks to align the leaf spring pins with the hole in the axle tube plate. The critical alignment here is front-and-back. If that's okay, but the spring pin is off to the left or the right of the hole, continue to raise up the axle until the axle tube plate makes contact with the spring pin. And then give it another pump just for good measure. Use a sledgehamer to knock the leaf spring pin towards the axle tube plate hole. Once it's moved far enough, spring tension will cause it to drop into the hole.

5. Install the U-bolts, top plate, sway bar links, etc. The shock can be bolted back up now or on the ground. Torque the fasteners to spec.

6. Install wheel and tire, lower the vehicle down, and torque the leaf spring bolts to spec.

That's how I did mine anyways. know it's a PITA, but it CAN be done. All it takes is patience and a little bit of critical thought.

Damn! Why can't I edit posts?! I forgot to mention, when installing the shackle bolt, you'll obviously have to lift the spring up towards the shackle, but the shackle will still have to move forward for everything to line up. Starting everything with alignment punches and then further compressing the spring with an alignment punch in place will help with this.

Can it be done with one floor jack?

I have a 3 ton jack stand holding the body up, axle on the ground. I had planned to put the front bolt in and put the spring pin in the axle, then tackle the rear bolt. Did you try that? I suspect your idea of front them rear bolt second, then the pin may be the only way to get the rear bolt in.

A friend of mine tried the pin first then the rear bolt second and never got the rear bolt in. I was not here at the time. And he did not do what I would have tried. I am 99% sure the front bolt has to be first.

I do have a bottle jack I might use as second floor jack?

I just can't picture how to get leverage on the shackle to move it, but I need to crawl under it again and see what is there to work off of, hard to get leverage on a vertical edge to move it sideways/rotationally?

Hmm, I wonder if I could use freight ratcheting strap like I had to use last year on an a-frame / sway bar / Balljoint nightmare part on my Saturn.



Next I need dig the torque specs back up in the earlier thread here.

THANKS!!!!!! :clap:

JeepNoob said:

Damn! Why can't I edit posts?! I forgot to mention, when installing the shackle bolt, you'll obviously have to lift the spring up towards the shackle, but the shackle will still have to move forward for everything to line up. Starting everything with alignment punches and then further compressing the spring with an alignment punch in place will help with this.

Click to expand...

I think I did try installing the U-bolts and stuff before installing the shackle-to-spring bolt. Problem with that was the leaf spring eye didn't quite line up with the slot in the shackle. I see no problem with compressing the leaf spring with the floor jack and then raising the axle with tge bottle jack.