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241OR Rock-Trac/Teraflex 2-Low/Novak Cable Shifter Install

My pleasure. I'm glad it was helpful. :thumbup: Let us know if you have any questions or need help.

Scott
 
I have been down this exact road with the XJ. I had a normal 241 out of a JK, non rubicon/standard 2.72 reduction (still have it in the shop). Its exactly like your picture. There is no way to get a speedo signal from this case. I called PLENTY of folks that would know how (including JB), and they all told me I was wasting my time unless I wanted to do a lot of guess work.

It WILL bolt into the XJ once you swap to 1310's, and work just fine. In fact, its like a BEEFY NP231. The case is twice as thick as the 231, and everything inside of it is stronger... you just cant hook up a speedo to it. The JK's have speedo pickup in the front wheel/axle area, so there is no need for the VSS in the Tcase.

Gonna dig this one up from its grave...

I'm in the same situation as Pyro...just bought a 241 4:1 case that was advertised as coming from a '03-'06 Rubi (the tag even says '06), except it's actually a newer JK case (Gen III? - with the heavier-duty webbing, bosses, etc.) Mechanically it will hook up and work fine and I can still return it, but would really like to get the speedo working.

Wouldn't it just be a matter of finding and swapping over a Gen II tail housing with that speedo provision and a 1310 yoke with a sensor on it? And maybe the output shaft if it's longer?
 
This is a great thread, thanks for reviving it! I have a 241OR from a 2003 TJ Rubicon sitting in my garage. My case has the rear output housing with a speed sensor mount. I believe the output shaft is longer than yours since mine has a tone ring for the speed sensor mounted inside the rear output housing. There's also a dowel pin hole in the shaft that retains said tone ring. It's hard to say if the rear output housing from mine would bolt up to your case anyways. I think all 241OR cases came with 1330 yokes or some kind of flange, but there are plenty of aftermarket options for 1310 yokes or what ever you want. I have heard of people using the ABS signal from a rear 8.8 axle converted through some kind of speedo calibration unit to produce a usable signal for your XJs PCM. You have to run an 8.8 for this obviously, but other axles with ABS may work too.
 
thanks for the article. I did my cable shifter 3 years ago. just got the 2 low in today. rtv is drying now.. ( wife got it for me for last X-mas ) i'm running a tad behind. gotta do some rusty frame work, and i'll have it ready for spring :)
 
Part 4

This should sum up the install. The only item left to install was my Novak Shifter Assembly.

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And the best part of it all:

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Removal of the stock Z-gate assembly wasn’t difficult. Only tedious part I could have dealt without was pulling up the carpet in front of the driver’s seat to access the 4 bolts holding the linkage’s body floor plate. Novak supplies very detailed instructions with their kit, making install a breeze. I ran into one complication with mine. Teraflex supplies you with a new shift lever for their 2-low, which moves the point where the linkage connects, closer to the body of the case. This prevented the Novak Assembly from installing on the inside of the shift lever, per the instructions. Unfortunetly, the cable’s bearing end binds, prohibiting lever movement. I moved mine to the other side, which works fine. Shifting is still 100% better. I need to tweak / adjust the linkage further, but for the time being it’s ok.

You can see what I’m referring to in this first image:

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After a few test drives, I’ve came to the conclusion my speedometer reads ~15% faster than what I’m actually going. I used my GPS to assist with finding actual speed. I have 4.88 gears, and 35 x 12.50 R 15 Mickey Thompson Baja Claws.

Again, with my rig being a daily driver, I want to know exactly how fast I’m going. I decided to order Superlift’s Truspeed Speed Sensor Recalibrator. It’s not cheap. (n)

truspeed.jpg


I’ll give ya’ll a heads up on how that works, when I receive the unit and install it.

Thanks for looking!

Scott

Hasta I know is am old thread, but I just can't seem to get my cable shifter adjusted, I can get 2 hi, and not 4 low, or 4lo, and not 2hi, the range that it needs to more is way more then what it had to before. it's like I can't get enough throw to get the t case threw all the gears. after a week of working on it on and off it's getting old. :( any tips or ideals ?
 
I struggled with mine. I think I centered all the adjustments on the cable and re started. when I gave up it wouldn't shift while sitting still most of the time, but if I was creeping it's shift. it got a little better after driving it, but still it perfect. during cyber Monday I ordered one of the turnbuckle/all thread setups because they were on sale

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
I struggled with mine. I think I centered all the adjustments on the cable and re started. when I gave up it wouldn't shift while sitting still most of the time, but if I was creeping it's shift. it got a little better after driving it, but still it perfect. during cyber Monday I ordered one of the turnbuckle/all thread setups because they were on sale

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I think saw some posts that indicates some transfer cases requires more throw than others. Talk with Teraflex. I am sure they have an easy fix for that.
 
I ended up making my 4wd shifter gate longer for 2 hi, I grinded/ used a cut off wheel to make it about a 1/2" longer and it works great now.
 
I ended up making my 4wd shifter gate longer for 2 hi, I grinded/ used a cut off wheel to make it about a 1/2" longer and it works great now.

:roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:
 
Hate to revive this thread again, but it's better than making a new one...

Has anyone figured out a solution to the speedometer with the JK 241 swap?

Thanks.
 
I think you just need the tail housing from a TJ 241 as it has the VSS sensor and tone ring for the speedo, and you can bolt it right up to a JK 241 case.
 
I think you just need the tail housing from a TJ 241 as it has the VSS sensor and tone ring for the speedo, and you can bolt it right up to a JK 241 case.

That's only partially true! The early 241OR tone can be "made" to work, but it's not a "directly" compatible system.
 
Yeah im bummed because the thing is so much burlier then the 231 (and i hate to lose the 4:1 i have now)... but without extensive work ($$$) i cant make it work :tears:

Could you just take signal off the transmission? It would only work in 2wd but that's better then nothing?
 
Is the 241OR available anymore? Novak or JB?
 
Have you called them and asked? JB was where I got mine but I don't recall if it even advertised on their site.
 
You can't order those anymore. He only offers yokes for them. No place to order on the website.

I spoke with John last year when I did my 241OR on my 99XJ. He said they stopped making them, so he can't get them new anymore. I ordered yokes from him. He said he was thinking about making a tailhousing that would fit the speed sensor, then you could use one out of a JK. Not sure if that went anywhere, but that would be nice as the JK 4:1's are more available.

I used one out of a TJ. Hard to find and expensive, but almost a plug and play.
 
You can't order those anymore. He only offers yokes for them. No place to order on the website.

I spoke with John last year when I did my 241OR on my 99XJ. He said they stopped making them, so he can't get them new anymore. I ordered yokes from him. He said he was thinking about making a tailhousing that would fit the speed sensor, then you could use one out of a JK. Not sure if that went anywhere, but that would be nice as the JK 4:1's are more available.

I used one out of a TJ. Hard to find and expensive, but almost a plug and play.

Right you are.. John says they 'dried up' a couple years ago so no 241OR available. So, I guess I can hunt the used market for a Rubicon 241 or get an Atlas.. or forget the whole thing and stick with my 231
 
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