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Question about upper control arm

B

blu3fan

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Arizona
So I am about to remove my upper control arms.
I noticed while spraying them with pb blaster today to get them soaking.
the upper bolts on the axle have a torx fitting.
Do I need a torx bit for this ? or can I just spin the bolt off ?
anyone done this give insight ?
the lowers were a 3 day job of cutting the bolts off. so hoping the top goes better.
 
I think all XJ's used the same upper control arm, use a torx bit on a ratchet or breaker bar to hold the bolt.
Heat up the nut with a propane torch and remove the nut with a impact wrench and socket, its much easier to remove that way.
If you don't have a impact than you'll have to use another breaker bar or ratchet preferably w/a extension pipe, you'll still use the propane torch to heat(and expand) the nut.
Typically the top bushing bolt @ the front axle is easier to remove:cool:
 
the bottom bolts. were a nightmare. impact wouldn't touch em.
cut one off. and got the other one with a series of breaker bars. like 8foot long.
 
Coat the bolts with anti-seize on re-assembly so they don't seize to the inner bushing sleeve.
 
WE got the two lowers off my 87 Waggy-XJ with out too much fuss, using hand tools. One or two were hard, but we did not need anything special.

Had the most trouble getting the bolt back in on the new arm on the drivers side. Had to lift one side of the frame for some reason....to line the bolt hole up and get the arm in place. Have not done the uppers yet
 
Getting the bolts out of the uni-body that hold the rear springs and front upppers is a scary situation for sure. I use lots of creep oil and some creative use of extension straws through existing holes to soak the bolts. It's always a good idea to take all the weight off the bolt I.E. use four jack stands, two holding the jeep up and two to hold the axle up. Either compress the coils or cut them and remove them, if there loose in the bucket when supported your good. if not loose they will still put pressure on the bolts even if its supported, disco the sway bar to.

Cutting the ones that don't go into the uni-body is the best method, there usually seized in the bushing.

A word about "specialized" tools like a impact wrench:looney:
Use a good quality 1/2 inch that makes at least 400ftlb in reverse, I like my sanborn model p024-0219sn, it was cheap and has good power, w/ a decent air compressor(9.7scfm 240v 60 gallon), 3/8 air hose, and make sure the impact is lubed properly. Crank your regulator up to 100psi for tough jobs.

Maybe your doing all that, but w/ a good compressor and tools, proper technique you should be able to do it all by yourself. Or get someone to help.
:wave:
 
md21722 said:
Coat the bolts with anti-seize on re-assembly so they don't seize to the inner bushing sleeve.
Click to expand...

I forgot, This is super important! anti-seize on everything that goes on a jeep.
Thread lockers have there place for sure but....

You'll have to take it apart again anyway, its a jeep bwah!
 
Transpoquick said:
Getting the bolts out of the uni-body that hold the rear springs and front upppers is a scary situation for sure. I use lots of creep oil and some creative use of extension straws through existing holes to soak the bolts. It's always a good idea to take all the weight off the bolt I.E. use four jack stands, two holding the jeep up and two to hold the axle up. Either compress the coils or cut them and remove them, if there loose in the bucket when supported your good. if not loose they will still put pressure on the bolts even if its supported, disco the sway bar to.

Cutting the ones that don't go into the uni-body is the best method, there usually seized in the bushing.

A word about "specialized" tools like a impact wrench:looney:
Use a good quality 1/2 inch that makes at least 400ftlb in reverse, I like my sanborn model p024-0219sn, it was cheap and has good power, w/ a decent air compressor(9.7scfm 240v 60 gallon), 3/8 air hose, and make sure the impact is lubed properly. Crank your regulator up to 100psi for tough jobs.

Maybe your doing all that, but w/ a good compressor and tools, proper technique you should be able to do it all by yourself. Or get someone to help.
:wave:
Click to expand...

Umm, pressure regulators are supposed to be set so the tool sees 90 psi running, not static pressure when no tools are being used. This is because of pressure drop which occurs across every fitting, hose, regulator, and filter. For the average guy who runs a 50' hose reel and a swivel to get into tighter places, the regulator should be set around 130-140 psi. Every 25' of 3/8" hose is good for about 10 psi drop in pressure at the tool. The swivels eat up 15-20 psi drop. This is why single stage compressors that cycle on at 90 psi are basically crap for serious mechanics. Single stage compressors have specific industrial uses like fire supression and climate control, or in auto body and paint where blasting and painting don't necessarily need 90 psi.
 
Last edited:
bolts are rusted.
Badly.
Trust me the impact is not taking these off.
its gonna be breaker bars or cutting.

Ill head to Harbor freight and get myself some torx heads
 
md21722 said:
Umm, pressure regulators are supposed to be set so the tool sees 90 psi running, not static pressure when no tools are being used. This is because of pressure drop which occurs across every fitting, hose, regulator, and filter. For the average guy who runs a 50' hose reel and a swivel to get into tighter places, the regulator should be set around 130-140 psi. Every 25' of 3/8" hose is good for about 10 psi drop in pressure at the tool. The swivels eat up 15-20 psi drop. This is why single stage compressors that cycle on at 90 psi are basically crap for serious mechanics. Single stage compressors have specific industrial uses like fire supression and climate control, or in auto body and paint where blasting and painting don't necessarily need 90 psi.
Click to expand...

Good Insight, thanks!:worship:

Op will get it done. Jeeps even rust in California, sheez!
 
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