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2000 Cherokee Sport Death Wobble Help

I'd be more worried about all the rust!
It's also obvious that "nobody" has touched the caster shoes.
 
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Not to likely or possible! I run 2.9* of castor, I don't think a factory set-up can even go that low?


Caster. None of you run castor, that's oil.

And 3 degrees seems very under spec. I run 6.
 
So Changing the LCA's definitely messed up the caster?
 
It is quite possible.
 
Still chasing this one. I removed the drag link and the joint on the end was toast. I'm assuming they aren't replaceable because all I can find is the complete bar with the joint.
 
Still chasing this one. I removed the drag link and the joint on the end was toast. I'm assuming they aren't replaceable because all I can find is the complete bar with the joint.

Every part of the steering is replaceable. Some of them happen to be 3' long, however.

Bring us up to date- what all has been done?

If you are replacing the drag link (pitman/steering box to right side knuckle) and the tierod (driver side knuckle to about 4/5 of the way down the drag link) I would *HIGHLY* recommend you do the following:
1- use all Moog parts. This resolved the issue on my son's 97, after I had bad DW even with brand new parts storebrand parts. I understand Moog parts are priced ridiculously- in the LAPS. Buy them online- I got mine through Amazon and the price premium was only about 15%, not 180%.

2- Go ahead and do the V8 ZJ Tie Rod upgrade while you are at it. It's not stock, true- but it's identical to the stock bits, except for being 1-solid steel not tubular, and MUCH stouter (22mm threadpitch as opposed to 11/16, IIRC). It is bolt-in.

I can't see your pics, but someone mentioned rusted through panels and broken welds. The answer to your problem may come in the form of reinforcing the front end- weld on panels for the "framerails", or a front hitch. I understand the front receiver works wonders in terms of tightening things up. I have one to install on my son's 97, hopefully this weekend. I will reply back with how that turns out.
 
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Every part of the steering is replaceable. Some of them happen to be 3' long, however.

Bring us up to date- what all has been done?

If you are replacing the drag link (pitman/steering box to right side knuckle) and the tie (driver side knuckle to about 4/5 of the way down the drag link) I would *HIGHLY* recommend you do the following:
1- use all Moog parts. This resolved the issue on my son's 97, after I had bead DW even with brand new parts storebrand parts. I understand Moog parts are priced ridiculously- in the LAPS. Buy them online- I got mine through Amazon and the price premium was only about 15%, not 180%.

2- Go ahead and do the V8 ZJ Tie Rod upgrade while you are at it. It's not stock, true- but it's identical to the stock bits, except for being 1-solid steel not tubular, and MUCH stouter (22mm threadpitch as opposed to 11/16, IIRC). It is bolt-in.

I can't see your pics, but someone mentioned rusted through panels and broken welds. The answer to your problem may come in the form of reinforcing the front end- weld on panels for the "framerails", or a front hitch. I understand the front receiver works wonders in terms of tightening things up. I have one to install on my son's 97, hopefully this weekend. I will reply back with how that turns out.

Thanks for the help. I'll be pulling the rest of the links apart tonight to see if the rest of joints are as bad as the one on the drag link.

Go ahead and do the V8 ZJ Tie Rod upgrade while you are at it

I'll have Google that one......
 
Here's a snippet of an article I used:
(snip)
Figured I'd share my ZJ tie rod upgrade with you.

Simple easy bolt on upgrade.

Get the following parts for a 95 Grand Cherokee with a V8
Moog part numbers
ES3096L Tie rod end (short)
DS1312 Long tie Rod
ES2079S Adjustment Sleeve
(/end snip)

*HIGHLY* recommend you buy these at Amazon, or possibly Rockauto (Their prices are presently the cheapest I can find, and IIRC shipping was about $8 for all of them- so that might be the best deal) Amazon has free shipping if you're a Prime member (I am).

All up for me at Amazon with free 2 day ship is $88.

All up at Rockauto (taking about 5 days or so to get to me) is $92. Shipping went up to $17 from the last I checked.

So it depends on how patient you are, and whether or not you have Prime. What I like about Prime is that if I get the wrong part, I can return it free. Super handy with shoes, clothing, hats, etc (and yes, unrelated to this discussion, unless you misorder the part).

When you get the parts and compare to stock, you will see they are pretty much identical - just 1: a LOT heavier, and 2: larger diameter.

I found the above info at https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/zj-tie-rod-upgrade-22717/ . Do realize that the part number he has in the top post is wrong. Dyslexia got the best of him. I have installed the above parts on my son's 97 XJ and the wife's 94 ZJ. Work real good, last long time...

IIRC, this also has the added benefit of using the same joint in two places. IE, the pitman arm and the driver's side knuckle both use the ES3096L (don't quote me, I'm going from memory on that one, and I'm gettin' old)
 
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Got The Amazon parts on the way! Thanks!

My pleasure sir. I hope it works out for you as well as it did for me.

Are you aware of how to align your vehicle at home? It's really not difficult.
 
Never done an alignment in the garage......

I have a question about the linkage. All of the joints move easily by hand but are not "notchy" like the one on the drag link..

The new drag link joint is VERY tight.

Are they all supposed to be VERY tight?
 
Never done an alignment in the garage......

Others answered your other questions, so I'll address this...

Check out GoJeep's excellent article on aligning the vehicle yourself, at this address:

http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm

While you're there, read his other articles. It's an *OUTSTANDING* reference guide for all things XJ.
It's written by an Aussie that regularly goes hundreds to thousands of miles "out bush" without much in the line of a rescue party. You really can't go wrong in following his example.
 
Others answered your other questions, so I'll address this...

Check out GoJeep's excellent article on aligning the vehicle yourself, at this address:

http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm

While you're there, read his other articles. It's an *OUTSTANDING* reference guide for all things XJ.
It's written by an Aussie that regularly goes hundreds to thousands of miles "out bush" without much in the line of a rescue party. You really can't go wrong in following his example.

Thanks burntkat. I'll get this vehicle figured out one way or the other!
 
Others answered your other questions, so I'll address this...

Check out GoJeep's excellent article on aligning the vehicle yourself, at this address:

http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm

While you're there, read his other articles. It's an *OUTSTANDING* reference guide for all things XJ.
It's written by an Aussie that regularly goes hundreds to thousands of miles "out bush" without much in the line of a rescue party. You really can't go wrong in following his example.

That's not a good way to set toe-in!
 
Tires have to many imperfections and bulging to measure accurately from the side of the tire. Proper way would be to "scribe" the center of the tire!
 
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