Second opinions needed for stroker build.

Hey guys! I'm going to be stroking my 1992 xj with a 1990 4.0L.
I just need a second opinion on the parts I have selected.
Usage will be DD/Cruiser and a family winter gettaway truck (down to -35F) and some towing in the summer. I want it to have lots of low-end torque but also a bit of top end push!

Current specs:
4.10 Dana 35 LSD rear
4.10 Dana 30 open front Dana 30
AW4 and NP242
Rear disc brakes
WJ brake booster and master
31" Continentals, 15" stock XJ wheels.
2" budget lift, will be installing 3" or 4.5" Trail master kit when stroking.

Here we go:

--Hesco 4.7L Kit Part # H879947S06 - (http://www.hesco.us/products/7550/s...7l-stroker-engine-kit-h879947s06#.WG-EBxsrLAQ)
--Aluminum Jeep Cylinder Head - http://www.hesco.us/products/7735/c...uminum-jeep-cylinder-head-hesach#.WG-EKBsrLAQ (If they restock before my project starts) otherwise I am considering this: (http://www.shop.505performance.com/product.sc?productId=307&categoryId=46)
--Camshaft #H264-14B6 - Profile H264 series: *Lift -.470 *Duration [email protected] *Lobe centers- 114 (http://www.hesco.us/products/7735/cylinder-heads/42897/6-cylinder-camshaft-h264-14b6#.WG-HDhsrLAQ) or
H7464-8B6 - Cam Shaft: The cam lift is .480/.480 intake/exhaust. The duration at .050 is 224/214 intake/exhaust. (http://www.hesco.us/products/7735/cylinder-heads/132749/h7464-8b6-cam-shaft#.WG-HBRsrLAQ)
--Timing - Hi Performance Single Roller Timing Set #HESC3085 (http://www.hesco.us/products/7735/c...ingle-roller-timing-set-hesc3085#.WG-G6RsrLAQ)

I will get the block bored .060, honed, decked and acid dipped+flushed.

I also want to install a beefier transcooler, any recommendations? I have the tow package one right now.

Thanks for taking the time to help out. I don't want to regret something once it's built.

My 2 cents. Pickup a good used 4.2 crankshaft. Call Russ Pottenger at Bishop Buehl Racing and have him set you up with a set of custom forged pistons with proper compression height. Skip the Hesco aluminum head and either get a ported cast head from Russ or an Edelbrock 4.0 aluminum head. Find a competent machine shop in your area to machine and deck your block, crank, recondition rods. Russ knows these combinations inside and out. He will get you on track for less money. Russ is a member on here. Stay far away from 505performance.

I would advise swapping out the Dana 35 at the same time. I doubt it will survive long with a stroker and towing.

If your going to spend the money, build the long rod version!

I did one with my dad. 4.2 crank. .060 over and the head ported and polished. Also a cam from comp cams. With 3.55 gears and aw4 ( stock cooler. Only really gets hot pulling more than 2000 lbs. I would recommend doubling your maintenance on it to help it last as mines needing a filter and fluid change) I made 186hp@ 4500and 225 tq @ 3750 with some trans slip at the wheels. Calculated about 300 tq at flywheel.
Just my xp.


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nicpaige said:

My 2 cents. Pickup a good used 4.2 crankshaft. Call Russ Pottenger at Bishop Buehl Racing and have him set you up with a set of custom forged pistons with proper compression height. Skip the Hesco aluminum head and either get a ported cast head from Russ or an Edelbrock 4.0 aluminum head. Find a competent machine shop in your area to machine and deck your block, crank, recondition rods. Russ knows these combinations inside and out. He will get you on track for less money. Russ is a member on here. Stay far away from 505performance.

Click to expand...

I do not live in the US, so chances of finding OK quality used parts are slim. That and the fact that machine shops here are few and far between + they charge 200-300$ per hour, so I want to keep machining down to a minimum. Just boring the block is 160$ per cylinder. Honing another 90/cylinder.
I did not know edlebrock makes a head for it, thanks!
What do you think of the cam lifts though?
505performance is crossed of the list!
I've heard Hesco is reputable though, right?

Trippled: I would live to get a 44, but they are super rare here and shipping one from the US is $$$$

Borgli said:

I do not live in the US, so chances of finding OK quality used parts are slim.
Trippled: I would live to get a 44, but they are super rare here and shipping one from the US is $$$$

Click to expand...

You should be able to find a 8.25 though!

Hesco is good stuff.

Russ P. Is top notch

If you are starting with a standard bore, do not go .060 over, you will just end up running hotter and the power gain is not even noticeable. .030 over is plenty, plus it will allow a rebuild down the road if needed.

I was under the impression .060 is nessesery to reach 4.7l?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...rbbgcf55uFT6c3jN9chep2gboFTE_zfcLwaAq7k8P8HAQ

Same set sold as "Mopar Performance", by Mopar.

+4 at the crank.

Borgli said:

I was under the impression .060 is nessesery to reach 4.7l?

Click to expand...

As he said, 30 over.


How deep are your pockets?

The Hesco kit specifies .060 over.?
I'll probably go for that timing set, thanks!

Their about as deep as they need to be

Update: I will be getting the loaded Edelbrock 4.0 aluminum head with 91-99 polished stainless steel headers and 2000 Intake.

Borgli said:

The Hesco kit specifies .060 over.?
I'll probably go for that timing set, thanks!

Their about as deep as they need to be

Update: I will be getting the loaded Edelbrock 4.0 aluminum head with 91-99 polished stainless steel headers and 2000 Intake.

Click to expand...

Where are you? not in the states?

Jeep driver. No sadly I'm not in the US, I live in Norway - where gas is 7$/gallon!

Borgli said:

Jeep driver. No sadly I'm not in the US, I live in Norway - where gas is 7$/gallon!

Click to expand...

Are 4.0 parts plentiful? Can you pick up a block for $150?



Based on your parts list..........my guess is you'll have $8K US in this build.

What are you planning to spend? What is your expected machining costs?

I have a block laying around.
I'm expecting about 1000$ in machining. About 8000$ budget.

No, 4.0 parts are super rare.

Borgli said:

No, 4.0 parts are super rare.

Click to expand...

More the reason to begin at 30 over. Regardless of Hesco. Here in the US 4.0 blocks are dimes-a-dozen.........not so much for you. Once they bore to 60.......there is nowhere else to go, no way to fix a mistake or repair a flaw without going to sleeves.


As the other posted stated, the difference is negligible, so, you maybe at 4.6385 rather than 4.7, which is likely a round number anyway. ( I just made up the numbers, not doing the math)


Stroke is where you'll gain displacement.


Nothing more than an opinion, which is what you asked for.

Thanks for the feedback! I will go .030 over.
Do you have any suggestions for high end aluminum pistons and connecting rods? And crank for that matter.
I'm starting to think it's better to find the parts myself rather than getting a kit. I'm a pretty decent engine builder, I've done a project with a v12 and some odds and ends, I'm just not very familiar with stroking. (haha)

Do you think a .470 lift is OK for low end torque or could I go bigger? The head can go to a bit past .500, like 540 or something.