• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Engine Wont Start

X

xjrrrdx

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Denver
I did a little wheeling yesterday and we had to run up a small river. The deepest it got was a little above the hub level. Well I went home last night and everything was working, I even made a few stops where I turned the engine off as well. I wake up this morning to go to school and it wont start. It cranks and cranks but it wont catch. I took off the cap to the distributor and there is no moisture at from what I can see. I called my gfs dad who was a mechanic, he said to check the coil wire, put it a few inches away from the coil and turn it over to see if I have any arcing at all. If not I could have blown a crankshaft sensor, or shorted a wire somewhere in the engine compartment. Thanks In Advance for the help.

Deep as it got
IMG_0070.jpg


Distributor
IMG_0093.jpg

IMG_0092.jpg

IMG_0091.jpg


There is ZERO moisture in the cap.
 
Check your CPS sensor:
(Crankshaft Position Sensor)[/URL]
$47ish autozone, can prevent spark at coil, sputtering, stalling while hot, and prevent starting.
Disconnect and check the CPS resistance. Should measure about 275 ohms resistance. Re-connect and Should generate
about 2.5vac when motor is cranking. The CPS is Located at the 10 O'Clock position on the drivers side
top of the transmission housing, held by two 1/2in bolts and feeds up to a 3 pin connector with only
two wires going to the connector. Try unplugging and re-plugging the connection a few times.
If that seems to help, bypass the connection permanently by soldering the wires, use shrink wrap to
insulate the exposed soldered connections.
 
Well I crawled under and found what looked to be the CPS (according to Haynes) I got the multimeter and I got anywhere between 235-248 Ohms. I havent gotten a chance to crank and check the VAC, being as no one is here to help me at least for 30 more mins. I put the wires on the distributor back in this order 1,5,3,6,2,4 going clockwise. Stll no firing yet, just cranking.
 
Okay, my dad and I were fiddling and still nothing but here is what we have done/discovered.
1)Cable from coil to distributor has resistance in specs. However when we hold the cable above the post, we see no arcing and no spark.
2)Power cable to the coil has resistance of about 240ohms but NO voltage.
3)We are charging the battery because its almost drained.
4)CPS or what I think is the CPS which is under the jeep right under the oil filter (only thing I could find that looked similar to the Haynes manual.) Had a resistance of 240ohms as well.
 
xjrrrdx said:
Okay, my dad and I were fiddling and still nothing but here is what we have done/discovered.
1)Cable from coil to distributor has resistance in specs. However when we hold the cable above the post, we see no arcing and no spark.
2)Power cable to the coil has resistance of about 240ohms but NO voltage.
3)We are charging the battery because its almost drained.
4)CPS or what I think is the CPS which is under the jeep right under the oil filter (only thing I could find that looked similar to the Haynes manual.) Had a resistance of 240ohms as well.
Click to expand...

The CPS will be on the top of the bellhousing, in the back. Lay under the jeep on the driverside and look along the top of the transmission. Its best to get a long extension with a wobble on each end to get the bolts off, it's hard to reach otherwise.
 
cal said:
The CPS will be on the top of the bellhousing, in the back. Lay under the jeep on the driverside and look along the top of the transmission. Its best to get a long extension with a wobble on each end to get the bolts off, it's hard to reach otherwise.
Click to expand...

It still sounds like the CPS. you can test it at teh connector rather then pulling out off the bell housing. It is a three pin connector in the back of the engine with only two wires one white and one red (pink)


Looks like this...
PC87.jpg
 
Well I went and bought a CPS from autozone, I got it all bolted down and plugged in but nothing, still no spark. I am not sure if it is the correct CPS sensor now, being as it doesnt look like the stock one I have, the one I bought has 3 very thin needle like pins. We crank it and no spark coming from the coil wire to the distributor. We tested the ohms from the coil and we got around 100ohms. Still nada.
 
I went on the same run with xjrrrdx and had no problems at all up until my ride home tonight. When i was at idle at a stoplight the idle is very rough and the battery gauge goes up and down... Since both of us ran the same trail and are having similar problems i figured it automaticaly has to have somehting to do with all the water we drove through... any ideas on my problem?
 
Could be your ignition module that has gone on walk-about! It's on the r fender well and is what the coil is mounted to. Remove it and take it to some place like Autozone. They can test it for you. Beware however. They are pricey. And yes, they go out just like that. Mine did that. I was going about 65 mph when it went out though. Really pisses you off when that happens. Like someone just turned the key off. By the way, keep the new CPS in and hang on to the old one. Don't quote me on this but I think that also has a cam position sensor that may be the problem as well. By the way, what year is your rig???

Good luck..............Mikey
 
Last edited:
Wow! I just searched Advanced Auto Parts and for the Ignition Module its $220 and its only weather resistant, lets hope its not it.
 
Is there an issue with you Ignition key switch?
Mine has broke twice in three years. It will turn the starter but will not be in the on position when you let off the key so it will never start. If you giggle it can some times get it to work. Mine melted the first time, the second time was my last wheelin trip. those switches are junk, but only like $10. Its a PITA to get to on the steering column but worth a look. Just make sure you dash lights stay on when the key is in the no position, if they only come on when you giggle it you need a new switch.

I thought the coil was supposed to be 1K Ohms or so not 100? does the book say 100 Ohms is ok?

Check you CPS connector make sure it has a good connection, or bypass the connector completely.

Picture of the ignition switch.
attachment.php
 
Well I took it to my gf's dad he is a mechanic, I asked if he could diagnose it for me and Ill fix it, I told him id give him money for beer if he did and there was a smile and an agreement
 
Let us know what he finds out. It pays to have mechanics in the family.

Ashmanjeepxj, I don't believe that you can bypass the CPS. Until the ecm knows where TDC is, it won't send the signal to the ignition module to send spark. If there is, I belive that you would become a God for your wisdom and knowledge. :sunshine:

Laters...........Mikey
 
Well he looked at it all and its still the CPS, the thing is Autozone sells the incorrect CPS, I went to the site and put in my make and model and it gives the incorrect CPS no matter what state, and even online. So I had to go to carquest to see if they had it, and they did, I will install it tomorrow.

Just thought I would let you know that Autozone sells the incorrect CPS sensor, no matter what you do.
 
Well as it turns out, since I have a 96 I have to go directly to the dealer for this part. Everywhere I went said I have a "mid-year" model, everywhere I go they have the right sensor but wrong connector OR the right connector but wrong type of sensor. So the stealership will be getting my money.
 
Man jared that sucks. Hopefully it is the CPS sensor though and we can still do some wheelin on the 9th, oh and we should pick somewhere other than wheeler lake cuz it looks like someone is plannina run up there the 25th/26th that i think im gonna go on.. Let me know how the jeep thing goes
 
there's a guy a tmy work who has been battling his Jeep for 2 months (96 Grand Cherokee) He bought 2 new CPS sensorss from advance Auto Parts, then proceeded to replace every other sensor in the jeep, and even went to the stealerhip cause he couldn't figure out why it wouldn't stay running after it warmed up. They told him a new computer $600+. He got it put in, it didn't help any. He just bought a CPS from Chrysler, put it in and it runs good now. And now Advance Auto won't give him his money back or a store credit for the WRONG part they sold him; just a replacement part. He's pretty ticked.
 
Well I went to the stealership and they explained since my jeep had a production date of September 1996 They used the newer connector but for some reason used the older sensor layout. And the only place to get these sensors for my jeep is the dealership. So $118 later and a $60 refund from Autozone my heep is running strong.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

N
New Engine is Hard to Start
Replies
0
Views
33
NGThomas
N
Ecomike
87 Renix XJ No fuel, No brake lights, cranks fine
2
Replies
27
Views
854
Anak
Anak
M
92 XJ ECU connector
Replies
5
Views
137
Rob Mayercik
R
J
96 XJ cranks but does not start
Replies
2
Views
1K
Unclewolverine
U
W
No Spark
Replies
6
Views
1K
Runnin'OnEmpty
R
Back
Top