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Axle Swap Input

hjeepxj

hjeepxj

#OCDINK
NAXJA Member
Location
Denver, CO
I am going to be building a Dana 30/44 Combo as follows:

Front D30: HP from XJ, Artec truss/inner C gussets/UCA mount, HD LCA brackets, Stinky Fab track bar mount/swaybar mount/coil spring gussets. 4.88 gears, 30 spline ARB, 30 spline chromo shafts, WJ knuckles, akenobo calipers w/IRO discs, new ball joints.

Rear D44: XJ LP housing, IRO truss, TNT ubolt eliminator perches/shock tabs, 4.88's, 35 spline ARB, 35 spline chromos, Wilwood discs

All of this will be ran with a 5.5" lift and 35's. I have a couple of questions; should I cut and turn the inner c's on the front? Should I clock the TNT spring perches to improve pinion angle?

Jeep is not going to have lift in yet, axles are being built first so unfortunately I can't mock it up....
 
hjeepxj said:
I am going to be building a Dana 30/44 Combo as follows:

Front D30: HP from XJ, Artec truss/inner C gussets/UCA mount, HD LCA brackets, Stinky Fab track bar mount/swaybar mount/coil spring gussets. 4.88 gears, 30 spline ARB, 30 spline chromo shafts, WJ knuckles, akenobo calipers w/IRO discs, new ball joints.

Rear D44: XJ LP housing, IRO truss, TNT ubolt eliminator perches/shock tabs, 4.88's, 35 spline ARB, 35 spline chromos, Wilwood discs

All of this will be ran with a 5.5" lift and 35's. I have a couple of questions; should I cut and turn the inner c's on the front? Should I clock the TNT spring perches to improve pinion angle?

Jeep is not going to have lift in yet, axles are being built first so unfortunately I can't mock it up....
Click to expand...

4.88 make for a weak d30 r&p, 4.56 would be fine w/ 35's, 35 spline chromo in rear is way overkill, 30 spline chromos is plenty strong enuff, detriot locker rear & e-locker front would save some money, i would 3 link the front & do 1 ton otk steering , imo
 
Jeep Driver said:
Cart before horse....

Your pinion angles will be wrong.
Click to expand...

Have you personally done something like this?

It sounds like you have no experience with this type of a scenario.

Correct me if I am wrong.

______________________

The reason I say this, how many people don't touch their pinion angles at 5.5"s lift? Most. Maybe a shim in the back. I am asking for people who have experience/real world advice in a situation like this.

srb531 said:
4.88 make for a weak d30 r&p, 4.56 would be fine w/ 35's, 35 spline chromo in rear is way overkill, 30 spline chromos is plenty strong enuff, detriot locker rear & e-locker front would save some money, i would 3 link the front & do 1 ton otk steering , imo
Click to expand...

I was worried about the 4.88's at first, hence one of the reasons for the truss..other than that everything is already purchased, I'm past decision making time. :cheers:
 
hjeepxj said:
Have you personally done something like this?

It sounds like you have no experience with this type of a scenario.

Correct me if I am wrong.

______________________

The reason I say this, how many people don't touch their pinion angles at 5.5"s lift? Most. Maybe a shim in the back. I am asking for people who have experience/real world advice in a situation like this.



I was worried about the 4.88's at first, hence one of the reasons for the truss..other than that everything is already purchased, I'm past decision making time. :cheers:
Click to expand...

You are wrong.
 
Jeep Driver said:
You are wrong.
Click to expand...

Well then, can you expound?

Should I ignore turning the c's and just run it as is?

Can I install the TNT perches at the same location as stock since I'm only doing 5.5"?

Is your opinion to install the lift and then build the axles?
 
Thank you everyone for the input! Keep it coming!

:cheers:
 
scottmcneal said:
I forgot, I am running 35's
Click to expand...

:cheers: I appreciate your input - I know if you are "easy" on the go pedal hell the setup would be fine on 37's. :cheers:
 
488s are fine. Really everything needs to be setup after. There's too many variables to guess your pinion angle. I personally would not waste the time on the C's. Find a happy medium in the pinion and caster and run it. It's a lot of work for little gain IMO.
 
Running 35s and 3.5" of lift over stock. I have been running a year now at about 5.5* castor some light DD and highway. I wouldn't be afraid to run less castor. My HP30 pinion angle is probably 1* under the perfect pinion angle. Zero vibes from the front driveshaft and it is pretty damn ragged.
 
scottmcneal said:
After 7 years on 488's I have never broke. I did break a locker once in the 30
Click to expand...
and what kind of goodies do you have on axle?

i ask because out of all the ring and pinion failures i have seen, it is usually a stripped ring gear, and not some failure cause by the "notoriously weak pinion." i agree that the smaller contact patch may contribute, but i think the bigger issue is ring ring gear deflection. a full case locker, truss, and stout diff cover go a long way in keeping a D30 happy.

hjeepxj said:
:cheers: I appreciate your input - I know if you are "easy" on the go pedal hell the setup would be fine on 37's. :cheers:
Click to expand...
that is really pushing the D30. 37s are a big, and more importantly, heavy, tire. there is a lot of mass there to really put a hurting on a D30, in the manner described above.

trippled said:
488s are fine. Really everything needs to be setup after. There's too many variables to guess your pinion angle. I personally would not waste the time on the C's. Find a happy medium in the pinion and caster and run it. It's a lot of work for little gain IMO.
Click to expand...
i would aregue there is a lot to gain by rotating the Cs on an axle that does not have locking hubs... especially if the plan is to drive it down the road at highway speeds. of course, what is acceptable varies from person to person.

but i do agree that at that lift height one should be able to find a decent medium.
 
trippled said:
488s are fine. Really everything needs to be setup after. There's too many variables to guess your pinion angle. I personally would not waste the time on the C's. Find a happy medium in the pinion and caster and run it. It's a lot of work for little gain IMO.
Click to expand...

In talking to people, thinking, over thinking, reading about, I think "not wasting time on the c's" is the best advice. :cheers:

themauler said:
Running 35s and 3.5" of lift over stock. I have been running a year now at about 5.5* castor some light DD and highway. I wouldn't be afraid to run less castor. My HP30 pinion angle is probably 1* under the perfect pinion angle. Zero vibes from the front driveshaft and it is pretty damn ragged.
Click to expand...

Nice. Thanks for the input!

VAhasnoWAVES said:
and what kind of goodies do you have on axle?

i ask because out of all the ring and pinion failures i have seen, it is usually a stripped ring gear, and not some failure cause by the "notoriously weak pinion." i agree that the smaller contact patch may contribute, but i think the bigger issue is ring ring gear deflection. a full case locker, truss, and stout diff cover go a long way in keeping a D30 happy.


that is really pushing the D30. 37s are a big, and more importantly, heavy, tire. there is a lot of mass there to really put a hurting on a D30, in the manner described above.


i would aregue there is a lot to gain by rotating the Cs on an axle that does not have locking hubs... especially if the plan is to drive it down the road at highway speeds. of course, what is acceptable varies from person to person.

but i do agree that at that lift height one should be able to find a decent medium.
Click to expand...

I agree, if I was going to run 37's my own opinion is to at least run a D44, I just know I've seen it done.

Thanks for the input!
 
srb531 said:
4.88 make for a weak d30 r&p, 4.56 would be fine w/ 35's, 35 spline chromo in rear is way overkill, 30 spline chromos is plenty strong enuff, detriot locker rear & e-locker front would save some money, i would 3 link the front & do 1 ton otk steering , imo
Click to expand...

4.56, no thanks.

I've always loved the "weaker R&P" comments. If it was that big of an issue, no one would regear.

My '98 on 35's got put through harder trails and lines than 95% of people with an XJ would be willing to even think about. I went through at least half a dozen 297x front driver's shafts...R&P's were still going strong and looking great the day I sold those axles.

If you already had the C's off, or it was an easier thing to do, it would be worth it.

If building a D44, worth it.

In your case, with not running a sky high lift, I wouldn't worry much.
 
freerider15 said:
4.56, no thanks.

I've always loved the "weaker R&P" comments. If it was that big of an issue, no one would regear.

My '98 on 35's got put through harder trails and lines than 95% of people with an XJ would be willing to even think about. I went through at least half a dozen 297x front driver's shafts...R&P's were still going strong and looking great the day I sold those axles.

If you already had the C's off, or it was an easier thing to do, it would be worth it.

If building a D44, worth it.

In your case, with not running a sky high lift, I wouldn't worry much.
Click to expand...

Glad you chimed in brotha! :cheers:

You going to make it Saturday?
 
Never mind.
 
Last edited:
Bent said:
Not with anything as flimsy as a D44, or D30.

If you're putting that much into axles, awe nevermind.

hasta

Nominated.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help!
 
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