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D44 front with 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern

Roxtar

NAXJA Forum User
In rereading CRASH's front D44 thread he talks about 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern being avail on some D44 fronts.
Anyone know what these came on?
Are they unit bearing or hub style?
 
kid4lyf said:
In rereading CRASH's front D44 thread he talks about 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern being avail on some D44 fronts.
Anyone know what these came on?
Are they unit bearing or hub style?

I think possibly mid-70s Dodge 1/2t pickups, and I think they had hubs, but thats a WAG on both
 
woody said:
I think possibly mid-70s Dodge 1/2t pickups, and I think they had hubs, but thats a WAG on both

Correct on part one. mid to late 70's Dodges. No hubs. But I think the knuckles are easily drilled for high steer arms. The last one I saw had a passenger flat top. The driver's side is flat top for sure.
 
Correct, Dodge used the 5 on 4.5" pattern on all 1/2ton trucks and Ramchargers from mid '74 thru to '79. BUT you don't want them, its junk and no better than the D30 hubs you have now.

Also every Dodge D44 knuckle prior to '94 that I have seen is flat top on both sides.
 
The Jeep Wrangler Rubicons had them as well with no manual hubs, but nice selectable locker and 4.10 gears ready to bolt into your XJ. Basicly a dana 30 on Roids :)

Troy
 
I just want to know why Brad would ask such a question. I bet he welded to much galvanized metal today.

Late 70's (76-79?) 1/2 tons with full time cases, in '80 they went to the stadard hub and bearing design. Was a unit bearing style but the bearings were easier to replace. D44 style ball joints and a much larger stub than the D30. No alloy shafts available. Offset wheels under the heavy pickup destroyed the bearings.

Kid, go smoke some dope and clear your head. :D
 
Lincoln said:
I just want to know why Brad would ask such a question. I bet he welded to much galvanized metal today.

Late 70's (76-79?) 1/2 tons with full time cases, in '80 they went to the stadard hub and bearing design. Was a unit bearing style but the bearings were easier to replace. D44 style ball joints and a much larger stub than the D30. No alloy shafts available. Offset wheels under the heavy pickup destroyed the bearings.

Kid, go smoke some dope and clear your head. :D
I have an HP44 out of a late 70s F150 with Warn hubs.
I have an 8.8 trussed and four linked in the rear of the heep.
I just bought a rear 60 as a long term project.
I have very new TrailReady beadlocks in 5X4.5" BP.
My plan is this:
To build up the 44 and get it in before BOTW.
Leave the rear for a while.
I will eventually be going to 5X5.5 but as an interim fix I'd like to be able to use what I have for a while till the checkbook cools off.
I just did some measuring and I may be able to use a D30 unit bearing with the 44 flattops by fabbing an adapter plate between the knuckle and unit bearing.
I should be able to get the rotor positioned right for the brakes to line up. I will also be able to use my alloy D30 outers and Jantz Joints.
Like I said, this is an interim fix till I can afford to do the rear and buy new wheels.

Whew, my head hurts
Mind if I do a J?
 
1. Do the J.
2. Sell the Wheels
3. Buy some adapters for the back.
4. Buy new wheels.

I know it sucks, but it's not worth the trouble. You'll thank me later. :D
 
Lincoln said:
1. Do the J.
2. Sell the Wheels
3. Buy some adapters for the back.
4. Buy new wheels.

I know it sucks, but it's not worth the trouble. You'll thank me later. :D
It doesn't suck. It's impossible.
$ will be very tight for doing the 44. Wheels & adaptors are out of the question now. (although I'm open for donations :D )
The choices are thus:
1)Leave as is with D30 front.
2)Do 44 and park XJ till $ become avail for wheels and adaptors. (No wheeling till next spring / no BOTW)
3)Above plan.

Choice #2 is unexceptable so it come down to this; wheel this year using the complete D30 or wheel it using the D44 with 30 unit bearings.
 
Personally I would just run the 30 and build the rest as the funds come through. I did option #2 once appon a time and your right, "unacceptible".

You made it through ok with your 30 last year and with alloys (don't consider the jantz joints because they would move to the 44) I think you're just as good off. Even if you ran allows on the 44 you can't get the stubs. I think the ears on those are weaker than the alloy stubs on your 30.

What are you worried about most? Bring a spare.
 
GSequoia said:
Better have your junk ready for JV in November Brad.
Glad you mentioned that. I know you talked about paying my way to Moab.
I assume the offer would be transferable to JV, right.
 
Lincoln said:
Personally I would just run the 30 and build the rest as the funds come through. I did option #2 once appon a time and your right, "unacceptible".

You made it through ok with your 30 last year and with alloys (don't consider the jantz joints because they would move to the 44) I think you're just as good off. Even if you ran allows on the 44 you can't get the stubs. I think the ears on those are weaker than the alloy stubs on your 30.

What are you worried about most? Bring a spare.
Don't I gain quite a bit by using the 44 (up to the outer shafts)?
I'd still get the stronger housing, bigger pinion gear, and stronger inner shafts. Basically an all around stronger axle.
I will even be able to use my alloy outers along with the joints. One huge advantage of the 44 using 297s is that I can mate my alloy 30 outers with the 44 inners. Then just buy new 44 outers when I eventually "do it right"
The only extra work I can see is having to machine the adaptor plate to go from the 44 knuckle to the 30 unit bearing.
 
kid4lyf said:
Don't I gain quite a bit by using the 44 (up to the outer shafts)?
I'd still get the stronger housing, bigger pinion gear, and stronger inner shafts. Basically an all around stronger axle.
I will even be able to use my alloy outers along with the joints. One huge advantage of the 44 using 297s is that I can mate my alloy 30 outers with the 44 inners. Then just buy new 44 outers when I eventually "do it right"
The only extra work I can see is having to machine the adaptor plate to go from the 44 knuckle to the 30 unit bearing.

You'll gain it if you use alloy 44 inner shafts. I don't think spicer 30 spline shafts are stronger than an alloy 27 spline.

Think of it this way though. Your chances of losing a R&P aren't that high, if you know your swapping it who cares about the housing, and your current shafts should get you by. Nice thing about the 30 shafts is they are easy to change.

I've gone the route of making things work temporarily and ended up wasting to much time, effort, and cash on the whole deal. The adapter isn't that bad of an idea, but I personally wouldn't waste the time. Think of the ground clearance advantage you'll have with the 30. :)
 
cLAYH said:
Correct, Dodge used the 5 on 4.5" pattern on all 1/2ton trucks and Ramchargers from mid '74 thru to '79. BUT you don't want them, its junk and no better than the D30 hubs you have now.

Gonna have to call :bs:

IMO this is a perfectly good way to get 5 on 4.5" pattern. Wheels are expensive. All the parts are a bolt on swap, plus you already have the 5 on 5.5" parts that you can put in a box and swap back on at a later date if you change the rear axle out.

Advantages to the Dodge parts as compared to a D30 are a bigger ball joints, much bigger brakes - rotors and caplipers, larger replaceable wheel bearings and races (common Timken p/n's), replaceable grease seal, and greasable bearings. The knuckles themselves are flattops, drivers side already has studs, passenger side needs machined but has the stud bosses cast into them.

The disadvantage to them is you have to change the yoke (the "C") to a D44 yoke, they will not install on the factory D30 yokes. Also the yokes are laid out different, the ball joint axis to mounting area of the yoke is shorter than a D30 yoke. If memory serves you will need to increase the length of the axle tube about 1.500" per side in order to use stock D30 inner axle shafts; however in your case where you have a D44 it's a 100% bolt on so there isn't any disadvatage...

my .02

Bob


Bob
 
Lincoln said:
You'll gain it if you use alloy 44 inner shafts. I don't think spicer 30 spline shafts are stronger than an alloy 27 spline.

Think of it this way though. Your chances of losing a R&P aren't that high, if you know your swapping it who cares about the housing, and your current shafts should get you by. Nice thing about the 30 shafts is they are easy to change.

I've gone the route of making things work temporarily and ended up wasting to much time, effort, and cash on the whole deal. The adapter isn't that bad of an idea, but I personally wouldn't waste the time. Think of the ground clearance advantage you'll have with the 30. :)
I will be buying alloy 44 inners.
Good point on the 30 being expendable though.
I guess it depends on the build.
If I've got everything done, just waiting on $ for wheels & adaptors, I might be tempted to do the 30 outers but I'm not going to bust azz to get there.
Another BOTW with the 30? :fuse:
 
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