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U-joint replacement, need "practical" advice...

Y

yossarian19

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Grass Valley, CA
Well, it finally happened: I started getting noise from the front right U-joint. It's got play and it's got to get replaced. First time I'll have done the job, so...

It looks like removing the caliper, axle nut (centered in rotor), rotor & the 3 hub to knuckle bolts will let me pull the whole axle out. I then press the bearing caps apart in a vice and knock it off the shaft, throwing a new U joint in before re assembling.

The rig spent 13 years of its life in Utah. The axle is rusty.

What is likely to go wrong? Am I better off throwing a JY shaft in there and calling it a day? The new U-joint is 15 bucks but with my time involved I'm not sure it is worth messing with...
What say you, guys?
 
Hose down the u-joint caps with a good rust penetrant like PB Blaster, Aerokroil, or a 50/50 mix of acetone & ATF for at least a day, if not a couple of days. Actually, hose down the hub bolts as well.
 
You don't have to pull the axle nut, you can swap the u-joint without removing the stub shaft from the unit bearing and it avoids having to retorque it after. The unit bearing bolts are 1/2" or 13mm 12 point, expect to need a breaker bar... I have never broken one while removing them, even ones so rusty I had to weld a nut onto the head to get a wrench to grab at all.

I would toss a new u-joint in it, another junkyard one will die pretty quick since it's probably got a lot of miles on it too. Having spares around is never bad though, so maybe grab one at the junkyard, toss it in, while running it, put a new u-joint in the original. Around here I pay 30 bucks for a shaft, ujoint, stub shaft, and unit bearing with mounting bolts.

DEFINITELY hose everything down with penetrating oil, you will have to remove the brake rotor to get at the business end of the unit bearing mounting bolts (putting oil on the heads does almost nothing.)
 
kastein said:
You don't have to pull the axle nut, you can swap the u-joint without removing the stub shaft from the unit bearing and it avoids having to retorque it after. The unit bearing bolts are 1/2" or 13mm 12 point, expect to need a breaker bar... I have never broken one while removing them, even ones so rusty I had to weld a nut onto the head to get a wrench to grab at all.

I would toss a new u-joint in it, another junkyard one will die pretty quick since it's probably got a lot of miles on it too. Having spares around is never bad though, so maybe grab one at the junkyard, toss it in, while running it, put a new u-joint in the original. Around here I pay 30 bucks for a shaft, ujoint, stub shaft, and unit bearing with mounting bolts.

DEFINITELY hose everything down with penetrating oil, you will have to remove the brake rotor to get at the business end of the unit bearing mounting bolts (putting oil on the heads does almost nothing.)
Click to expand...

This is the way.
 
I read about this and it helped me a lot.

You loosen all the unit bearing bolts(3 I think) and put a junk socket on the bolts and beat them with a hammer alternating. That separates the unit bearing without destroying it by trying to pull it off.
 
Easier method: After loosening the hub bolts, use a socket with an extension braced agains the inner C. Your *VERY* trusted helper starts the engine and uses the power steering to gently pop the hub loose. I've used this on my CTD's front D60 hubs.
 
Swapping the u-joints is pretty easy once you get the axle out of the housing - especially if you have a press. I am able to do remove both shafts from the axle and swap u-joints in about 2 hours (including beer time). It is not tough.
 
I just did this last week, but had to press mine out with a LOT of cursing and a ball joint press. I also blew up the new u-joint that I was putting in and had to use my spare.

PITA. Use PB-Blaster for a looooooong time before attempting, especially if it's rusty like mine. I couldn't even get one of the c-clips off without an air hammer.
 
ChiXJeff said:
Easier method: After loosening the hub bolts, use a socket with an extension braced agains the inner C. Your *VERY* trusted helper starts the engine and uses the power steering to gently pop the hub loose. I've used this on my CTD's front D60 hubs.
Click to expand...

I typically don't have a helper on hand or open the garage to start the jeep(nosey neighbors). I also figure why put stress on the steering system or try to align the braced socket just right.

I used a mini sledge and gave the bolts a few taps each and it popped right out.

I guess easier is dependent on who is doing the work.
 
You're in AZ. I'm in the Midwest. Things rust up a bunch tighter here.
 
Thanks for the help, all!
I'll order the u-joint and get after it tomorrow, leaving the axle nut in place. Worst case scenario, I'll order a shaft to get it driving and work on the U-joint when I have a minute to build a trail spare.
 
yossarian19 said:
Thanks for the help, all!
I'll order the u-joint and get after it tomorrow, leaving the axle nut in place. Worst case scenario, I'll order a shaft to get it driving and work on the U-joint when I have a minute to build a trail spare.
Click to expand...

You may want to check the price of your worst case scenario. A new shaft costs a fortune... I'd check local forums for used shafts.
 
When spraying the PB-Blaster/whatever penetrating oil you favor, spray around the inside of the outer knuckle where the unit bearing housing sticks through. It's the circle around where the stub shaft goes into the back side of the unit bearing. This will help the unit bearing move. when you have the unit bearings out, clean the mating surfaces on the unit bearing and the outer knuckle. Not just the flat, clean the hole in the knuckle. Just before you re-install the unit bearing, apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the mating surfaces. Next time you have to take it apart, you will thank yourself.(go ahead and buy the big bottle of anti-seize, it has a brush applicator inside the lid, and you'll need it in the future. Don't get it on your hands: It gets EVERYWHERE! )
 
Easier method: After loosening the hub bolts, use a socket with an extension braced agains the inner C. Your *VERY* trusted helper starts the engine and uses the power steering to gently pop the hub loose. I've used this on my CTD's front D60 hubs.
Click to expand...

I've done this many times...it works like a charm.
 
The socket extension trick is magic. Did this last month - both sides. It does not put undue strain on anything.

You don't need a helper. Wheel off, find a spot to turn the wheel to get the extension snugged into place, back to the steering wheel to slowly turn to one side, no effort, pushes right out - all of 5 minutes work.

Beats the heck out of beating the heck out of it.

I also had quite rusty parts (Canadian winters) and the u-joint press that looks like a hefty C-Clamp I got from Princess Auto (sort of our version of Harbor Freight) worked as advertised.
 
A press is your friend....believe me. I tried popping the ujoints on my '98 out with a HF ujoint press and that didn't work too well. I then tried the socket and hammer routine, only to badly mash my finger up and required stiches. I was only able to press one half of a ujoint out, half way.

I finally just dropped the axles off at my local 4x shop. The $30 to pop out and replace the ujoints was far less expensive and time consuming, than going to the hospital to stitch up my finger....
 
ChiXJeff said:
Easier method: After loosening the hub bolts, use a socket with an extension braced agains the inner C. Your *VERY* trusted helper starts the engine and uses the power steering to gently pop the hub loose. I've used this on my CTD's front D60 hubs.
Click to expand...

No need to start the engine, just turn it to the on position.
 
For the lazy, it is way easier to do with the engine running and the power steering pump spinning.

If you do that, though, make sure you put the caliper over the rotor so you don't get to compress the piston to reassemble everything... not really a big deal if you do, but annoying.
 
My jeep has 256k miles on it and I had zero issues getting my unit bearings and old ujoints out.

I suggest the old socket and hammer method as it worked great for me on removing the hub bearing and ujoints, just be careful and dont smash your hands. Also, it helps a ton if you have a work bench. My new house does not, so I did everything on the floor..
 
Maybe you should consider a set of salvage axles, put new u-joints in them then just switch them out and rebuild the old set later for spares.
 
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