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H.D. Offroad Engineering 3 link bracket install

BRIANHO13

<- Yum Chocolate
Location
Spring, TX
Begin install by welding on your H.D. Offroad Engineering middle frame stiffeners (others can be used but you may have to modifier theirs in order for the brackets to fit, a little thicker material will not interfere with the bracket install)

Clean the stiffeners where the brackets will be installed.



Weld the brackets together.

Kit comes with everything shown (hardware/heims will be an add on)


Start by assembling the large bracket piece the small bent bracket piece and the lower mounting tab, use your heims and hardware to hold everything together.





Tack weld the parts together.

Add the gussets.







Weld everything together







 
Don’t forget to tack weld the nut on the inside of the bracket (the nut will not be accessible once the bracket is installed on jeep, you will only need to weld the nut to the inside of the bracket on the side in which you intend to run your upper link on.



Finish welding and repeat for second side, you will only need to weld the nut to the inside of the bracket on the side in which you intend to run your upper link on.

On the drivers side you will need to do some rearranging of the brake and fuel lines so the sit flush with the side of the frame.



Next put the bracket up to the frame and hold it in place with a floor jack and mark your floor for the holes.



Your floor will only have six holes per side (mine has more because of a previously installed version.



Install the brackets with a couple bolts and make your control arms.

Since it is such a tight fit on the passenger side I had to install the upper arm before installing the bracket (I could have unbolted the exhaust at the flange to get more room for the uca bolt). Since I did it this way I had to tack weld the nut that is directly above the upper heim to the bracket.



Now its time to install the brackets and arms.

Once everything is in place you will need to weld the side of the bracket and the bottom of the bracket to the stiffeners.



more pics





Tire clearance (I get the tiniest amount of rub with 35s and 4” back spacing.


Other notes:

I did use a new uca mount on the axle side to help handle the stresses of the 3 link.
Also included in the kit is a bracket the you will be able to weld to the end of the UCA in order to use a Currie typ joint on your housing. Or it can be welded to your truss so you can use a heim on both sides of your UCA.




The brackets are now on the website and I can supply all other heims and hardware you may need.






 
Nice job!! :thumbup:
 
Looks good may be ordering some soon as they look like they will work for my upcoming axle swap.


Also any way to get a more detailed set of pics of the upper and lower arms attached from bracket to axle to see clearance with the upper arm.
 
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Looks good may be ordering some soon as they look like they will work for my upcoming axle swap.


Also any way to get a more detailed set of pics of the upper and lower arms attached from bracket to axle to see clearance with the upper arm.


I can do that, I will also build an upper for the drivers side this weekend so people will see what that looks like.
 
OH YEA, upper mount is 2" wide lower mount is 2-5/8" wide, holes for mounts are 5/8".
 
Nice job!! :thumbup:

So, you didn't see that he installed the doubler on top of the carpet :/

Otherwise an interesting solution. I wonder if the frame area was longer if it would be even more robust. Also. The doubler isn't sitting flat because of the tranny hump, perhaps making the bracket longer would help avoid putting a fastner in that area and allow trimming of the doubler.

-Ron
 
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So, you didn't see that he installed the doubler on top of the carpet :/

Otherwise an interesting solution. I wonder if the frame area was longer if it would be even more robust. Also. The doubler isn't sitting flat because of the tranny hump, perhaps making the bracket longer would help avoid putting a fastner in that area and allow trimming of the doubler.

-Ron

Doubler plate is not above the carpet (sorry I forgot to say explicitly to cut the carpet) and does sit flat on the floor, what in the world are you talking about?

Pic copied from above.
DSC_1216_zps9aeb7015.jpg
 
Doubler plate is not above the carpet (sorry I forgot to say explicitly to cut the carpet) and does sit flat on the floor, what in the world are you talking about?

Edit:
after blowing up the image a bit, I see what you are talking about.
What I saw was a plate with 10 holes in it and only 6 bolts installed; partially white and partially gunmetal. I didn't see the doubler sitting directly on the floorpan.

I apologize.

-Ron
 
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Thanks looking at putting a front 60 in soon so the detailed pics will help a lot determining which route to go.

Here is a pic from the front on the passenger side, as you can see not much room, that is an after market axle mount that I can get for you guys too.


Here is a shot on drivers side, as you can see plenty of room.



 
That's very helpful exhaust is close but clears drivers side looks like its got way more room


Last question how does it perform with a 4 link plus trackbar setup or is there to much bind going on with both uppers attached ?
 
Last edited:
So, you didn't see that he installed the doubler on top of the carpet :/

Otherwise an interesting solution. I wonder if the frame area was longer if it would be even more robust. Also. The doubler isn't sitting flat because of the tranny hump, perhaps making the bracket longer would help avoid putting a fastner in that area and allow trimming of the doubler.

-Ron

Go get some new glasses dude............:twak:
 
That's very helpful exhaust is close but clears drivers side looks like its got way more room





Last question how does it perform with a 4 link plus trackbar setup or is there to much bind going on with both uppers attached ?


I would think there would be too much binding w hard joints. Could probably get away with bushings.
 
What about a set of similar brackets for a 4 link rear? Or would you not be able to triangulate it enough seeing as how the two frame mounts are basically on top of each other..?
 
What about a set of similar brackets for a 4 link rear? Or would you not be able to triangulate it enough seeing as how the two frame mounts are basically on top of each other..?

Not enough separation and the uppers need to be around 70% in length of the lowers. But you could do a 3 link rear with pan hard bar.
 
What do you think would be the minimum lift height needed for clearance to work with this kit?
 
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