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Stripped Oil Drain plug

Chux01Cherokee

NAXJA Forum User
Hi all, here's the story. Due to my tight schedule I was forced to get my oil changed at a local quick lube center about 2 months ago. I asked my trusted regular mechanic, who recently did some brake work for me to do the oil change. He informed me that whoever did the last oil change, (read above) cross threaded the drain plug. I returned to the scene of the crime and they were unable to remove the plug. They are going to do me right, and fix the problem, as I was informed that I would get a new pan at their expense. The appointment has been made, and I am curious, how much time is this going to require? I have been told about 4 hours. Now I'm not paying for it, so thats a moot point, but I took a look under the vehicle and I tend to agree. This kind of work is very interesting to me, so I ask anyone who has some insight, how much work is involved here? I don't do any of my own work aside from minor maintenance, and it looks like a jungle down there. Look forward to all your replies.

Chuck
 
Bummer, definitely got to pull the oil pan and replace it with a new or used part, no other option here.

Prying loose the burned-on oil pan is a booger, followed by the wigging it clear of all the interference. Loosening the bolts is the easy part, they tend to be well lubed.

One nice thing is your damaged oil pan is sacrificial now, so beat it to smithereens if need be to make it fall off the crankcase skirt!
 
Chux01Cherokee said:
Hi all, here's the story. Due to my tight schedule I was forced to get my oil changed at a local quick lube center about 2 months ago. I asked my trusted regular mechanic, who recently did some brake work for me to do the oil change. He informed me that whoever did the last oil change, (read above) cross threaded the drain plug. I returned to the scene of the crime and they were unable to remove the plug. They are going to do me right, and fix the problem, as I was informed that I would get a new pan at their expense. The appointment has been made, and I am curious, how much time is this going to require? I have been told about 4 hours. Now I'm not paying for it, so thats a moot point, but I took a look under the vehicle and I tend to agree. This kind of work is very interesting to me, so I ask anyone who has some insight, how much work is involved here? I don't do any of my own work aside from minor maintenance, and it looks like a jungle down there. Look forward to all your replies.

Chuck
Are you saying the dorks at JiffyLube are going to do it?
The front axle has to be dropped for clearance.
The also need to remove the front brakes so the don't snap the brake hoses to the wheels.
 
Hi again,

Its the dorks at the local quick lube that did the damage, and my regular tech is going do do the pan job at the quick lubes expense, which they have already agreed to. I suspected that the axle was going to have to be dropped for clearance, thanks for that bit of info. In so far as just doing a self tapping repair plug, that is not really an option at this point since the original drain plug cannot be removed. So yes, my original oil pan is a sacrificial lamb, so to speak. Any other guys/gals that have similar stories of such butchery by a quick lube I feel your pain. OH, one more thing, I got a free oil change out of it anyway, they sucked the old oil out of the dipstick tube. Does this stir up any of the sediment that might be in the bottom of the pan? I imagine theres some since I just turned 114k. Keep writing!

Chuck
 
hey
The same thing happend to me rite after i bought my xj you do not have to drop the axle but u do have to remove the steering stabilizer and jack up on the frame to clear evrything it is just a dirty job, its great they are paying for your pan but in my case i just welded a new plug in the pan to save a 100$ or so. mine was at 130k when i did this and there was no sediment in the pan i also replaced the rear main seal while i was in there beacause mine was satarting to leak. my 02.
 
That's why I do oil changes myself. Those monkeys ALWAYS screw something up. They stripped the screws on the air box on my brothers truck. How you do that!?
 
talk to your mechanic have him replace the rear main seal when he pulls the pan. the rear main is a very common thing to leak and if ya have any ill luck it will leak right after the pan job and you'll have to pay on your dime to have the pan pulled and rear main replaced. very simple job if the pan's off already.
 
See if they are willing to give you compensation to their mistake to you. If so get a new pan and rear main and do it all yourself. By doing it yourself you can guarantee it will be done right and you will gain the experience.

Also in the future do you oil changes youself. IT can get done in 15min.

pete
 
Chux01Cherokee said:
Hi again,

Its the dorks at the local quick lube that did the damage, and my regular tech is going do do the pan job at the quick lubes expense, which they have already agreed to. I suspected that the axle was going to have to be dropped for clearance, thanks for that bit of info. In so far as just doing a self tapping repair plug, that is not really an option at this point since the original drain plug cannot be removed. So yes, my original oil pan is a sacrificial lamb, so to speak. Any other guys/gals that have similar stories of such butchery by a quick lube I feel your pain. OH, one more thing, I got a free oil change out of it anyway, they sucked the old oil out of the dipstick tube. Does this stir up any of the sediment that might be in the bottom of the pan? I imagine theres some since I just turned 114k. Keep writing!

Chuck

Sucking out the oil through the dipstick tube should be all right. That's how many marine engines are done, and as I recall, it's been a factory authorized method for Mercedes since something like 1977.

Definitely make sure that your mechanic does the rear main seal, even if it isn't leaking yet. It will eventually, and now's the time.

It sounds as if the quick lube guys used an air wrench to put the plug back in. Let's see if I can find the right smiley for that one! I guess this one will have to do....:twak:
 
I have the same problem.I just bought the xj and went to change the oil on Sunday and realized that the drain plug will just spin and won't come out.It will tighten though.How should I remove it and will there be any shavings left in the oil pan or should I just remove the whole oil pan?
 
You are probably going to have to pull the pan.

Search, lots of threads on doing it.

Might as well do the rear main seal, and be sure and torque all of the rod and main bolts while you are in there. Depending on the mileage you could also consider a new oil pump, but for sure clean the pickup tube screen.
 
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