trying to solve starting issues, a few questions

yes i HAVE been searching and looking for info so dont harass me :roll:

1996 4.0 automatic

so the jeep was turning over slower and slower for a while now untill last night when it finally just wouldnt start... no crank at all, no clicking coming from the starter motor, just the click of the relay coming on and off. the lights are bright, stereo's loud, and still wouldnt start with a jump which i think rules out the battery.

its in my driveway now so today is diagnosing day.

so here is my plan of attack and some questions i have about them

-check voltage with multimeter what voltage should a good battery read?

-check fuses #10 and #19 and starter relay am i missing any?

-check voltage at starter, which should be the same as the battery do i do this while someone is turning the key or ignition off or what? also what contacts do i do this on?

-check ground continuity for battery and for starter

-try jumping from main (+) connector at starter to the solenoid where the lead connects from the relay keys in off, on, or start position?



anything else im missing?

Battery should be 12.5V. Less than 12 is bad for sure. Don't assume that it should start with a jump. It's hard to get a good connection thru jumper cables. Because big wire to starter is always hot, it doesn't matter wher your key is when your are jumping across the starter terminals. With key off, it should still crank. With key on, it should start. MAKE SURE YOU ARE IN PARK.

x2 with Winterbeater.

Measure the battery voltage between the terminals, should be 12.5 volts approximately.

You should charge the battery and have it load tested. Volts and amps, you can have plenty of one and not enough of the other.

Remove both cables, clean both ends of each cable, measure resistance of each cable--should be near ZERO. If not, replace the bad cable(s).

When you have a battery that is charged and passed a load test, and both primary cables are cleaned and tested good or replaced, if it still won't start with the key you can jump the leads at the starter--key off, in PARK, brake set--and see if it will crank then. If it still won't crank your problem is the starter/solenoid.

What they said + check your ground to the engine.
Just went through this process for a different symptom.
Check voltages:
1. batt post to post
2. post terminal to Post terminal - sometimes it is a bad contection between the batt post and clamp.
3.@ starter - there are two big posts. check the one with the big cable on it.
Continuity Check - ground:
1. between neg post and chassis
2 between net post and engine block
3. between block and chassis (should be good)
4. Starter case and block and chassis.

If you have a bump start switch, use it at the starter with the ignition off.
Pull the starter as a last resort and have it tested.

thanks all, thats really good info. i think this should help me isolate the problem, hopefully by the end of the day

also, sjx40250, what is a bump start switch?

ill keep my progress posted up, im sure ill have more questions

Remote starter switch: http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7853-Remote-Starter-Switch/dp/B0009XQUKW

For your symptoms, I agree with the above.

#1. Do you have a volt gauge in the dash cluster? If yes, what does it read at idle? You should have around 14.4 at high idle. Better yet, check alternator output by putting one lead of a multimeter on each of the battery posts.

#2. Load test the battery. It's really the only conclusive way of testing a battery. Voltage testing can be inconclusive. Many parts stores will do this for you for FREE in the hopes of selling you a new one if you need one. Take advantage of this service.

#3. Freshen battery connections (remove both cables/clean/reattatch) Never, ever forget the importance of connections! You can't tell by looking at them!

Hey there - here are a few things I've been through on my '96 (4.0L, 157k)
1. New Battery she left me stranded down in Austin
2. New Alternator (Gaugue consistently read 13v and would dip below 12V when all accessories were on even on the hwy)
3. She left me stranded out at the lake one weekend - turn the key - no click, no buzz, no nothing. All accessories would power on.
4. New starter - wow everything works now!
5. One other caveat - I use the larger Mobil1 filter (M1-301 maybe?) and I noticed when i took the old starter out that it was dripping a bit on the starter - this could've been the cause for the starter to die too. Serves me right for going non-oem on that one but it sure is nice having that extra quart of Mobil 1 for my engine to cycle through. If I have to replace a $69 starter every few years I guess that's not such a big deal...

Good luck!

CampingXJ said:

5. One other caveat - I use the larger Mobil1 filter (M1-301 maybe?) and I noticed when i took the old starter out that it was dripping a bit on the starter - this could've been the cause for the starter to die too. Serves me right for going non-oem on that one but it sure is nice having that extra quart of Mobil 1 for my engine to cycle through. If I have to replace a $69 starter every few years I guess that's not such a big deal...

Good luck!

Click to expand...

You could convert to vertical--works for us Renix and early HO folks. :cheers:

well, did a little poking and prodding with a volt meter, did the arcing from the relay to the power wire, with a spark and no fire

figured just a bad starter or solenoid, turns out i was right

replaced the starter, works great

now i just have to fix the oil leak because, like CampingXJ my oil filter adapter is pissing oil all over my starter...