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New hub needed?

Tacowhip

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New Jersey
Hey guys, I'm changing my front axle u joints, and I'm wondering if I should replace the front hubs at the same time. If so what is a good brand to buy? Napa by me wants $100 each side. Seems steep


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How many miles on the old unit-hubs ? Any signs of excessive wear ? Usually it's the other way around, if you are replacing hubs you should throw on some new u-joints at the same time.

Timken hubs are the only ones to buy.
 
It's a 95. 115k mi. Original hubs. The axle nuts are giving me hell


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I always put my rim on without the center cap and dropped it back on the ground and then breaker bar with added length of my floor jack handle. Well, that was until I got air tools, now it is just the squeeze of a trigger ;) .
 
115k miles and no issues, I would be temped to run them until they complain. Meanwhile you can watch for a sale price or special discount on some new Timkens. You can replace u-joints with the unit hubs still attached to the stub axle, but it is kind of pain to do it that way. Another option would be to buy some good used axle shafts from the junkyard and keep or sell the 115k ones for trail spares.
 
The NAPA SKF ones work fine too. If someone has some data that Timken's hold up better than SKF I would like to see it. :dunno:. I believe both are machined in Slovakia.

I'm with Tim though - at 115kmi no need to change them unless you whale on hub trying to get them out. To remove them whale on the flange that goes against the knuckle. Once you get them out, clean off all the rusted surfaces and put some anti seize in the knuckle, on the flange surface... and they will come out very easily next time. Axle nut is 36mm torqued to 175 ft-lb. Hub to knuckle bolts 13mm 12-point and torqued to 75 ft-lb.
 
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Cool thanks guys. Hub is off and axles are removed. The hubs are shot. Had to beat them like a red headed step child to get them out. Napa's SKF hubs are $100 each. Rock Auto has timkens for $69. Probably going to do the timkens for that price. Another question I have is the axle tubes are leaking now. I DID raise the front end to get the front end off the ground to put on jacks, plus my driveway is slightly inclined. Do I put new inner seals in it and send it, or leave it alone. I'm trying to keep the can of worms at a minimum. Lol


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The best way to do it is to jack up one side at a time so the fluid doesn't run out. If they weren't leaking before, the leakage is because there is no shaft there to hold the fluid in. Changing the inner axles seals requires removing the differential carrier. If they weren't leaking before, leave them alone. Just smear gear oil or vasoline on the sealing surface of the shaft when you put them back in.
 
Just completed a complete front steering rebuild. Included hubs. I bought a kit with hubs and track bar for $120. Lifetime warranty. Jeep has 240,000 miles. Was completely factory parts with a 2.5 inch lift. Right huh bearing is whining already. Just received timken hubs from rock auto $68 each. Napas are ok also but for the price timken is the way to go.
 
I replaced mine several years ago and NAPA wanted about $250 IIRC. I ended up buying a parts jeep for $80 and replaced it with one of those. I'd pay $100 for a new one instead of used just so I don't have to go to the pain of that replacement again. I don't have air-tools or I would assume it would have been much easier. I actually broke a breaker bar pulling mine off.
 
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