98 XJ wont shift into overdrive

found a stock 98 2 hours away for sale the guy says wont shift into OD......hes been driving it 3 months this way. Says it shifts thru other gears fine... any ideas before I make the drive ?

Try adjusting the TV cable just in case...could be a simple fix!

Adjust the TV cable, and check the fluid. After it's warmed up and been driven a bit, cycle it through the gears, stop on level ground and apply the parking brake. Leave it running in Neutral and check the fluid level (and look/smell). If it's burnt-looking or smelling, it's possible you could get it running fine again by simply changing the tranny fluid.

This is stock, with stock-sized tires? You shouldn't have any OD problems with the standard 215 or 225s, or the stock upgrade to 235/75R15s. 30" also tends to be fine with the OD, but needs a 2" lift to fit. Once the tires are bigger than that though, don't count on being able to use OD until you regear.

Yucca-Man said:

. Once the tires are bigger than that though, don't count on being able to use OD until you regear.

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I wouldn't go that far, I have stock 3.55's and 31's and I use OD just fine without hunting.

keep0njeepin0n said:

I wouldn't go that far, I have stock 3.55's and 31's and I use OD just fine without hunting.

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You need to clarify what is meant by no OD. Is it not locking up the torque converter (some people call that OD) or not going into 4th? It could be as simple as the NSS needs cleaned. Not going into 4th can't be a bad solenoid as both are off, but not locking the t/c up could be a bad solenoid.

Go and drive it. Then, unplug the TCU and drive it. With the TCU unplugged you will have 1st only in 1-2; 3rd in 3; 4th in D; reverse, neutral, park. If you have all of that, then the problem is electrical in nature; if not, then the problem is hydraulic/mechanical. Most electrical issues can be solved cheaply.

thanks....... if i can ever get the guy on the phone to setup a look at it I will post back what I find.

Could be the lock-up feature of the torque converter. My '98 lost the lock-up around 220K. I've put on about another 20K without fixing it. If you drive it you'll notice it go through all the gears, including 4th.

When you are on the highway, you'll also notice that the transmission doesn't seem to lock onto a gear. So anytime you push on the gas pedal, will result in an immediate increase in rpm. It shoulda also trigger the check engine light and give codes P740 & P743 (If I remember). Starting in the 80's sometime cars started to have the lock-up converters to give better mpgs. My mileage really didn't change much.

A new converter from Transtar or DAACO is $125-150. Labor to have someone do it books at 6 hours, so you're looking at 700-1000 to have it professionally repaired.

There is a couple solenoids in the transmission pan that can easily be changed out with the TRans in the vehicle, but they don't usually go bad. There is a ohm testing procedure somewhere on here for them.