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d35 non cclip axle shaft questions and general axle questions

Kejtar

PostMaster General
NAXJA Member
OK, I've just pulled the shafts out of my dad's jeep yesterday to put bigger drums on and encountered couple weird things:
1. There was an inner seal on the other side of the shaft bearing: does this mean that the inside of the axle tube is not filled with fluid? It didn't seem to really spill when I pulled the shafts out and it looked like there were some dry rust flakes inside the tube.
2. The axleshaft looked like it was splined on both ends and the flange end was bolted on :confused:
3. What is the main weakness of the non cclip axle? The axle shafts are beefier then the c clip version so that's a step forward but what's left? The tubes looked to have been made from somewhat thick material? How weak is the R&P?
 
There has been an inner seal listed, but I don't recall seeing it on the last two I tore to bits (88 and 89 Limited.) So, I'm not sure it's really necessary...

I don't recall what the ends looked like, but I think the flanges on my 89 Limited were friction-welded on. Might have been splined on the 88, but I don't remember whether there was a weld or anything else on there.

The non-C-clip axle shafts don't go flying out when you lose a C-clip (since it's not there to lose,) and they shouldn't fly out when they break. I'd not advise running on them broken for long, or at high speeds, but it should get you to somewhere you can change the shaft. You can also change the shaft without pulling the cover - lift that side up, and you shouldn't even lose a lot of fluid.

What did you do for bigger drums, and how was the swap - just drums, shoes, and hardware? No backing plate swap? Just curious - I've got the small drums on everything...

5-90
 
5-90 said:
There has been an inner seal listed, but I don't recall seeing it on the last two I tore to bits (88 and 89 Limited.) So, I'm not sure it's really necessary...
Without pulling the cover off again and popping the carrier out, it looks like the carrier itself has seals on the sides and then the seals at the bearings and the inside of the tube is ran dry.

I don't recall what the ends looked like, but I think the flanges on my 89 Limited were friction-welded on. Might have been splined on the 88, but I don't remember whether there was a weld or anything else on there.
This axle came of an 2.8 so it must have been either 85 or 86. Not that I want to take the axleshafts apart but it did look interesting.

The non-C-clip axle shafts don't go flying out when you lose a C-clip (since it's not there to lose,) and they shouldn't fly out when they break. I'd not advise running on them broken for long, or at high speeds, but it should get you to somewhere you can change the shaft. You can also change the shaft without pulling the cover - lift that side up, and you shouldn't even lose a lot of fluid.
I know that much :D This axle is actually not on my jeep but on my dad's jeep. I got it from the boneyard out of convenience as a temporary measure to match a d30 that we pulled out of the same vehicles (4.11 R&P). So after close inspection of the heavy duty axle shafts I'm wondering how temporary I want to make this. I know I can get him a D44 from a boneyard but for now all that we pull are sold to make $ for other parts for this jeep. Plus with the D44 I would have to regear it and that again starts to add up (R&P +install kit + full locker or lunch box + carrier). Who knows, maybe I'll score a great deal on a decent lunchbox locker for the 30?

What did you do for bigger drums, and how was the swap - just drums, shoes, and hardware? No backing plate swap? Just curious - I've got the small drums on everything...
The axle originally had 10" x 1.5" (or is it 1.75"?) brakes on it. Since I just put disks on my D44 I figured I might as well move over the newer shoes and drums. First problem that I encountered was that I had to swap the backing plates. Not really a big deal but more of a PITA cause I had to pull the shafts out and mess with leaking brake fluid again when I was swapping the lines from one backing plate to the other. Second problem was that the shoes on my D44 have been cracked right down the middle. That wasn't too big of a problem either: all I had to do was to find my receipt and get them swapped out (the receipt thing took 30 minutes, but I did eventually find it). Otherwise then that, swap was a breeze (ummm... well..... during bleeding I got a bubble into the line as I didn't refill often enough while clearing out the line of the crapping nastly looking old brake fluid, but that wasn't a big deal either).
 
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