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code 32 and 72?

ceasar

NAXJA Forum User
Location
oregon
i have a 1994 4.0 HO that is running rough and stalling like crazy.when i run the codes i get 32 and 72.i googled and there is all kinds of misinformation on these codes or not even listed.anyone got the correct codes?
 
Does it smooth out when you are on the throttle? Test/replace map sensor, tps, ckp and O2
94 doesn't have egr.
 
Ignore those codes, they are wild goose chase.

Test the fuel pressure first. Check the vacuum hose from the intake to the MAP sensor for a leak

Test the first O2 sensor, pre-cat converter (or disconnect it to see if it smooths out) as a test for a bad O2 sensor. Check the Cat converter to see if it is blocked, busted loose internals (might relate to 72 code).

Just for starters. Also check for arcing plug wires at night.

Plugs, rotor cap and wires all good? Battery connections clean and good?
 
checked all connections....its actually codes 12 and 27....bad pcm?i have heard of faulty connections inside the box....
 
12 is the battery was disconnected recently or died. can be ignored.

and 27 might be from a shorted or open injector circuit or bad injector.
 
27* Injector # control circuit Injector number # output driver circuit does not respond to the control signal. Check the affected circuit.
 
checked all connections....its actually codes 12 and 27....bad pcm?i have heard of faulty connections inside the box....

Yep, I'd grab a fuel injector Noid light and test each each injector wiring harness pigtail connection first. Also a stethoscope to listen for each injector actually clicking, or pull the fuel rail and test each one with a 9 volt battery to see if any are dead, stuck open or closed.

Can pull one plug wire at a time to see which one makes no change when disconnected to see which cylinder is not firing (no fuel?).

Bad PCM maybe, but do the above stuff first.
 
well it started long enough(and it ran smooth?)to check for injector ping and they all seems to sound good?
 
well it started long enough(and it ran smooth?)to check for injector ping and they all seems to sound good?

Does it run smooth at cold start up for a little bit then go crazy? That might be an indication of an O2 sensor problem. Or a broken Cat guts bouncing around randomly blocking exhaust, or both ( code 27 related, maybe).
 
ran smooth while cold then sputtered a bit then died.started back up and maybe ran for a minute then died.im going to sawzall off the catalic and see what happens.no DEQ here.
 
ran smooth while cold then sputtered a bit then died.started back up and maybe ran for a minute then died.im going to sawzall off the catalic and see what happens.no DEQ here.

Before you do that, just disconnect the connector to the O2 sensor. If the problem goes away the O2 sensor and or the O2 sensor wiring has a problem. Sure sounds like an O2 sensor issue as it warms up and tries to go closed loop it looses control. The heater in the O2 sensor may be bad. IF it is the O2 sensor, replace it, as it will save you tons of $$$$$ in gasoline MPGs!!!! and improve performance.
 
well crap that didnt do it.it did start and run longer though.it is throwing 2 new codes...21 and 24.21 is the sensor i unplugged and 24 is the TPS however the sensor is new and the code was not there before i unhooked the sensor??

so i got spark and fuel so now i know its gotta be a sensor.maybe the MAP?
 
So the codes showed up after you cut the cat out or after you disconnected the O2 sensor?

You could have damaged wiring, especially O2 sensor wiring, or TPS O2 sensor common wiring in a harness, bad sensor ground. It is not always the sensor!!!!

Did you use a new Mopar OEM TPS sensor? If not, the new one may be bad. That seems to be commonly reported in recent years here.

If the new O2 sensor showed up after disconnecting the O2 sensor, that means the sensor may be OK (I say may, it could still be bad), but indicates the wiring may be OK. Only way to check is a volt meter to back probe the TPS wires at the connector and the O2 sensor, jeep in run engine off, and while running. Compare data to the FSM or post results here.
 
Not so fast on the conclusion.

MAP sensors rarely go bad.

You said: Unhooked the O2 sensor or the TPS sensor?

Moving the wires can make or break a wire short in the harness!!!! And can cause your problems. Only way to find it, or verify a sensor issue is with a multi meter, using ohms and volts and compare to the FSM data tables.

well crap that didnt do it.it did start and run longer though.it is throwing 2 new codes...21 and 24.21 is the sensor i unplugged and 24 is the TPS however the sensor is new and the code was not there before i unhooked the sensor??

so i got spark and fuel so now i know its gotta be a sensor.maybe the MAP?
 
the TPS was napa garbage as i was in a bind to get the part.i didnt put in a new O2 sensor just disconnected it.i will check with my volt meter after i get it back from my fathers and post as soon as i can....
 
if i unhook the tps will that tell me if it is faulty?

If nothing else is wrong it will idle with no TPS connected. It will have a hard time accelerating rapidly (computer needs the TPS data to see fast foot peddle action), but if you move the peddle slowly it should run smoothly at various higher RPMs if you hold the gas peddle steady, if the O2 sensor is working, etc.....
 
if i unhook the tps will that tell me if it is faulty?


A volt meter is the best way to test the TPS, with the engine off.
 
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