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code 32 and 72?

You have had three codes now that indicate a possible wiring damage across 2-3 sensors, issue!!! So don't be in a hurry to blame one sensor!!!
 
the TPS was napa garbage as i was in a bind to get the part.i didnt put in a new O2 sensor just disconnected it.i will check with my volt meter after i get it back from my fathers and post as soon as i can....

OK, here is how you test the O2 sensor and wiring. Use the 91+ tests.

You can disconnect the TPS sensor. IF nothing changes running it with the TPS sensor disconnected, then I doubt the TPS sensor is the issue, but acceleration will be rough as I said. But keep in mind a wiring issue can look like a sensor issue, and can come and go rapidly and or be there one minute or day and not the next.
 
oops....i read through my earlier posts and failed to mention there is a quarter size hole in the exhaust manifold right before it Y's off to the exhaust.....
 
OPPPS!!!!!! "There is no OPPPS"!!!! :twak:

:twak:

:twak:

You need to fix the hole, seal it, then start over. If it is not obvious, there is no way the O2 sensor can get proper data WITH A HOLE, ANY HOLE IN EX-MANIFOLD!!!! In closed loop (about 10-20 seconds after the engine starts on a working system) the ECU uses the O2 data as its primary data source for controlling fuel feed rates.

oops....i read through my earlier posts and failed to mention there is a quarter size hole in the exhaust manifold right before it Y's off to the exhaust.....
 
Okay. I have tomorrow off I'll try to get it fixed. Kind of weird it ran fine until just the other day with the hole in the exhaust
 
Okay. I have tomorrow off I'll try to get it fixed. Kind of weird it ran fine until just the other day with the hole in the exhaust

That is odd. With a hole like that the exhaust would cycle pulse in both directions at the hole, changing the O2 content feed to the O2 sensor and confusing the hell out of it.

It probably has been running rich-open loop due to the hole and ran OK tell the rich mixture burned up and damaged the Cat Converter, and thus clogged up the Cat converter to where the exhaust was blowing out the hole instead of all through the cat converter. A quarter sized hole is about 1" that is huge!!!!

Where and what is that exhaust blowing on, what damage or issues is that causing??? How did the hole get there? Has it burned up the CTS or other sensor wiring near it? Maybe the CPS wiring?
 
It's not really blowing on anything. It's kind of pointed at the steering shaft and the firewall. I think I'll have the cat cut off when I get the hole fixed
 
It needs the back pressure from a properly working Cat to operate properly as well, unless you customize it for off road....So be carefull where and how you remove it for inspection. I have had two that went bad and caused all sorts of havoc blocking good exhaust flow, miss fires and so on.

Check for any wiring insulation damage with in 12" of that hole!!!! It may be mild at idle due to the size of the hole, but I can assure you at cruising speeds and accelerating that leak is up to no good for your nearby wiring...etc.

I thought you had cut the cat off/disconnected it earlier in your recent tests???
 
I was going to cut it off but then you told me to unhook the O2 sensor first . So should I just delete the cat or get a new one? I'm out of DEQ and we don't have inspections here
 
Technically it's against federal law to remove the cat. Only time you're allowed to do it is to replace it. A shop won't do it for you if you go that route. Mine doesn't have a cat right now since the one that was on it was completely see through and I think that's the last thing in the way of my gas mileage woes. I still don't know why anyone except highly tuned speed racers would remove a cat since a working cat's only negative on a regular vehicle is heat generation.
 
I was going to cut it off but then you told me to unhook the O2 sensor first . So should I just delete the cat or get a new one? I'm out of DEQ and we don't have inspections here

If you can unbolt the Cat at the flange and inspect it, I might suggest that. I would not cut the cat out. Fix the hole in the ex-manifold first, then run the O2 sensor tests listed on the thread I linked below. Also once the hole is plugged, checked the exhaust for flow at idle and say at 3000 rpm to see if the tail pipe feels like the exhaust is blocked, or not. If the tail pipe feels like there is too little flow, then either unbolt the cat and inspect the guts, or get a vacuum gauge and run the vacuum tests listed on line for a blocked exhaust, leaking valves, low compression and so on. Vacuum tests can tell you a lot!!! Here is one of many:

http://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html
 
Cat removal law article.

http://legalbeagle.com/7194804-catalytic-converter-laws.html

Technically it's against federal law to remove the cat. Only time you're allowed to do it is to replace it. A shop won't do it for you if you go that route. Mine doesn't have a cat right now since the one that was on it was completely see through and I think that's the last thing in the way of my gas mileage woes. I still don't know why anyone except highly tuned speed racers would remove a cat since a working cat's only negative on a regular vehicle is heat generation.

Some off road only, or race car people do it when they put in a stroker and an aftermarket exhaust...etc., but those rigs are NOT registered for the street, not street legal. I.E custom off road rigs, racing rigs....
 
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