- Location
- Lakeside, CA
I've been fighting upper control arm bushings walking for years now. And with moving parts over to a new jeep, I figured I'd truss the axle or fix the rubber bushing problem once and for all.
I was debating on which way to go, and leaning towards TNT, but then you start adding mounts for everything and the cost of the truss starts going up. Then I went and looked at the currie johnny joint setup. This would fix the bushing problem and wouldn't cost a fortune. Finding it online for 150-180. I started asking about it on the socalxj list. This is where the the cool kids hang out.
I almost bought it when one of the guys said check out Artec, they're releasing a truss for the D30, and that they had some trusses at the King of the Hammers. So I went there and checked it out. It's NICE, and it's priced in my budget. I ordered one from the website and upgraded it to johnny joints. I also used the secret pirate4x4 code to get a discount. Truss was right at $200 shipped to my doorstep. It arrived a couple days after ordering it.
Unpacking revealed a very nice laser cut truss that was all keyed to drop right onto the top of the axle. This is when I noticed I was missing the passenger UCA bracket from the kit. A call to Artec and they shipped the missing bracket out. Now we're set.
Install was almost a breeze. I cut off the stock mount and ground it flush with the tube. While we were at it, we removed the steering stabilizer mount as the jeep hasn't had one of those in ages.
The truss it self keys off the diff housing and the spring perch. Basically set it on the axle and rotate it into place.
Once that was done, we tacked the internal braces, then pulled off the top plate and front and rear plates then welded the internal braces to the tube.
Next we installed the front/rear plates, and did the internal vertical welds since you can't get to those once the top plate is on.
Once the internal welds were done, we installed the top plate and welded that, we also welded the front/rear plates to the tube, and did external welds on the vertical pieces. We took care to move around on the tube so we don't end up with a happy axle.
Last weld was to the center section. Preheated the center section with a mapp gas torch, cranked the welder to 11 and let her rip. My buddy Josh did this part as he had more experience with welding cast. He made it look easy, and with some post heating, then letting it cool slowly nothing cracked. This joint is under compression so I think it won't be an issue.
We then repeated the process for the short side.
Last part was to set the passenger side UCA bracket into place and install the weld in johnny joint.
The kit comes with 1 weld in joint for passenger side and a machined joint for the drivers side that you press in.
Overall, I'm very impressed with the truss kit. Installation was straight forward. I would using a 240v welder and that is mainly for welding the truss to the differential housing.
I was debating on which way to go, and leaning towards TNT, but then you start adding mounts for everything and the cost of the truss starts going up. Then I went and looked at the currie johnny joint setup. This would fix the bushing problem and wouldn't cost a fortune. Finding it online for 150-180. I started asking about it on the socalxj list. This is where the the cool kids hang out.
I almost bought it when one of the guys said check out Artec, they're releasing a truss for the D30, and that they had some trusses at the King of the Hammers. So I went there and checked it out. It's NICE, and it's priced in my budget. I ordered one from the website and upgraded it to johnny joints. I also used the secret pirate4x4 code to get a discount. Truss was right at $200 shipped to my doorstep. It arrived a couple days after ordering it. Unpacking revealed a very nice laser cut truss that was all keyed to drop right onto the top of the axle. This is when I noticed I was missing the passenger UCA bracket from the kit. A call to Artec and they shipped the missing bracket out. Now we're set.
Install was almost a breeze. I cut off the stock mount and ground it flush with the tube. While we were at it, we removed the steering stabilizer mount as the jeep hasn't had one of those in ages.
The truss it self keys off the diff housing and the spring perch. Basically set it on the axle and rotate it into place.
Once that was done, we tacked the internal braces, then pulled off the top plate and front and rear plates then welded the internal braces to the tube.
Next we installed the front/rear plates, and did the internal vertical welds since you can't get to those once the top plate is on.
Once the internal welds were done, we installed the top plate and welded that, we also welded the front/rear plates to the tube, and did external welds on the vertical pieces. We took care to move around on the tube so we don't end up with a happy axle.
Last weld was to the center section. Preheated the center section with a mapp gas torch, cranked the welder to 11 and let her rip. My buddy Josh did this part as he had more experience with welding cast. He made it look easy, and with some post heating, then letting it cool slowly nothing cracked. This joint is under compression so I think it won't be an issue.
We then repeated the process for the short side.
Last part was to set the passenger side UCA bracket into place and install the weld in johnny joint.
The kit comes with 1 weld in joint for passenger side and a machined joint for the drivers side that you press in.
Overall, I'm very impressed with the truss kit. Installation was straight forward. I would using a 240v welder and that is mainly for welding the truss to the differential housing.
