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Can't seem to solve steering wheel play

The re-man units from the el-cheapo auto parts stores are junk, being rebuilt by people overseas who dont really know the details/importance of what they are doing and why. Please look around your local area or a little farther out, and find a gear shop that has the expertise to do a quality rebuild. In many cases they will even do the remove and re-install for a modest additional cost. The many guys I know that have done it locally have never had issues, they come back like new because they were rebuilt using a quality kit and knowledgeable practices. Good luck!
 
I agree, and although so far it seems to be ok, if this thing goes bad at any time soon, I will be going local. Thanks for the idea...
 
I agree, but there not be any quality repair kits on the market anymore, per Old_Man, at least for the Renix Gear box.

The re-man units from the el-cheapo auto parts stores are junk, being rebuilt by people overseas who dont really know the details/importance of what they are doing and why. Please look around your local area or a little farther out, and find a gear shop that has the expertise to do a quality rebuild. In many cases they will even do the remove and re-install for a modest additional cost. The many guys I know that have done it locally have never had issues, they come back like new because they were rebuilt using a quality kit and knowledgeable practices. Good luck!
 
Never assume it's just a jeep thing. Mine just randomly started feeling loose, and that's when I hit a ditch at 50 this weekend. While driving the Carter pin for the drag link rod end failed and caused the nut to loosen up, went from loose to no steering in about 10 seconds. Double check everything
 
I'd say the nut for the drag link was not torqued correctly and the nut broke the key after being loose and working against it for a bit. I don't normally use a torque wrench for stuff like that but it's a good idea and maybe some blue loctite and not elcheapo cotters.
 
I'd say the nut for the drag link was not torqued correctly and the nut broke the key after being loose and working against it for a bit. I don't normally use a torque wrench for stuff like that but it's a good idea and maybe some blue loctite and not elcheapo cotters.
Stainless cotter, and all work that's done at the shop is torqued to spec, just a freak accident
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I rechecked the static steering wheel play in mine, 87 Wagoneer (all very young, low millage nearly new parts) and in park my tire does not move unless the centered wheel is moved 1" each way, so it does have 2" of steering wheel play side to side, but when driving it seems to respond to 1/2" of movement each way, or a total of 1" of play. FWIW. I have no problems with it.
 
Like I said the cotter is not there to keep the nut tight it's to prevent the nut from backing off if it does come loose. Maybe the torque wrench is not calibrated or whatever. Maybe the drag link stud yielded/was stretched so the nut couldn't hold torque. That rig looks like it's beat on pretty hard so maybe the stud hole was worn allowing the drag link stud to move around causing the nut to loosen. Just saying
 
I have to say that I am surprised that the large 34mm nut has no form of security. I noticed that it can loosen up after a few days, which makes me want to have Billy (my breaker bar) and the34mm socket in my Jeep at all times.
 
Are you referring to the nut on the steering gear at the pitman arm? It's supposed to have a large split lockwasher not just the nut. If it comes loose just clean the threads, put some loctite primer on them and some red loctite and torque it immediately and it shouldn't come loose again without a big impact or hear.
 
Not the arm, the rod end that is at the bottom of it

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Gotcha. Then that could be an issue.

The pitman arm can take an act of congress to break free. Just pulled two off old steering gears and even with the right tools and electric impact it was a nightmare.


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Gotcha. Then that could be an issue.

The pitman arm can take an act of congress to break free. Just pulled two off old steering gears and even with the right tools and electric impact it was a nightmare.


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They always do, my steering geometry isn't terrible, but I have a 2" drop arm in my box for a day I have nothing going on. They're a pain, so it'll probably be a while before I get that bored

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The last 10 years give this old phrase a whole new meaning, LOL. " pitman arm can take an act of congress to break free"

Gotcha. Then that could be an issue.

The pitman arm can take an act of congress to break free. Just pulled two off old steering gears and even with the right tools and electric impact it was a nightmare.


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There isn't much on the XJ steering that is metric. The spline hold down between the box & column is metric, most of the other parts are SAE / inches. 1-5/16" for the Pitman arm. The TRE nuts are 3/4". The box bolts to frame with SAE bolts that take a 5/8" socket. Mc Parts boxes are typically of poor reman quality. Good / used boxes are the way to go or expensive aftermarket. Ask in your local chapter if anyone has a box laying around or go to Pull a part.
 
My 98 XJ has the C Rock steering box frame strengthener, the Currie HD Steering and the RE tracbar brace installed along with RE adjustable control arms. About 2 years ago I replaced the 18 year old OEM steering box and the Currie drag link tie rod which resolved the play in the steering. Make sure to torque the steering box bolts, pitman arm nut and tie rod castle nut to spec. I rechecked the torque on steering box and pitman arm after a week or so...
 
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