- Location
- Westminster, SoCal
how long of a bead did you guy lay? Any issues with the weld cracking due to stress?
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welding the RE HD trackbar mount to the frame rail
- Thread starter Kejtar
- Start date
- Location
- San Bruno, CA.
Weld on the leading edge(towards the front of the vehicle) where you can grind it off if needed. A 3/4" to 1" bead on the side and a 3/4" to 1" bead on the bottom should do it.
Been running mine like that for a couple years with no issues.
Been running mine like that for a couple years with no issues.
- Location
- Westminster, SoCal
Jes said:
OK, just to make sure: the bead is only on one side (towards the front) and the side edge that is facing the cab is left untouched?
Sounds easy enough.
- Location
- San Bruno, CA.
Kejtar said:
Yep. You can goto town on it if ya want but you may want to remove it in the future for some reason.
I just removed mine a couple of weeks ago to modify it and it was easy to get off with a cutoff wheel.
- Location
- Westminster, SoCal
Jes said:
OK, that was my biggest concern: balancing the strength (as in enough bead) while still keeping it removeable.
One more question: do you also have it braced (whether it is to help ease the tension off the weld or to stiffen the frame rails against each other)?
- Location
- San Bruno, CA.
Used to have a URF brace but took it off as it wouldn't work with my new suspension.
outlander
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Columbus,Ohio
Not to hijack but when I got my 5.5 lift re did'nt send the bolt for the frame end of the track bar so I went to the hardware store and got a 10mm gr.8 bolt and nut of the right length.Is this the right bolt or is it supposed to be double nutted?I noticed when I tightened the nut the track bar was hard to move.What gives?And sorry again for hijacking...just need to know.Thanks
BillR
Toy Jeep driver!
- Location
- Flagstaff, AZ
Good info. I'll be doing this soon also.Kejtar said:
