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Build ideas.. stroker and remote mount turbo (yeah I went there)

Boostwerks.com said:
Whoa there. No need for :rattle:

With my "limited knowledge" I've discovered that dyno results can vary... A LOT. If you want to publish your 400ft/lb stroker on a public forum, you might as well make sure your not posting skewed results. If it makes the same amount of power on a different dyno, then more power too ya. Until then, it's hard for anyone to take it seriously.

This was a customer's results btw...

4.2L block, 4.0L HO head, 50 trim T3/T4 on 6psi

37244818856_fe03685aa7_z.jpg
[/url]barnacleturbodynosheetcrop_zps8cc2ba2f by Bryson Whissen, on Flickr[/IMG]
Click to expand...

Agreed - that all-gears dyno is quite silly... lol.

It's good to see that dyno too, that's right up with what I wanna do; very nice torque curve. :)
 
Kittrell said:
That will not help a lot. If you want to drastically improve your stopping power, do a WJ swap on your 30.
Click to expand...

and then if you want to REALLY improve your stopping power, go hydroboost.

I did it on my S10 when I went to the D44s and V8. I'll never look back to vacuum boost.
 
Fosters said:
That being said, the side mount M90 blower kits i found look pretty sweet; but pricier than a remote mount turbo would end up being...
Click to expand...

I've looked at doing a remote mount turbo. In an XJ it seems to me it would be too exposed in the undercarriage. Maybe fine if the vehicle never wheels or fords water, but the "frame" rails (yes, I know, let's move along) are only something like 2" high IIRC, not a lot of room there to protect it.
 
burntkat said:
That is just dead sexy. Great job on the plenum- how does it attach, and how are you clearing the hood?

I'm pretty much committed to doing a SBC in my 90, but this may change things.
Click to expand...

M90's are relatively cheap and incredibly versitile. One of my favorite superchargers to date. Lysholms are anothe favorite.
 
OK, but how does the plenum attach, and does it clear the hood?
 
burntkat said:
I've looked at doing a remote mount turbo. In an XJ it seems to me it would be too exposed in the undercarriage. Maybe fine if the vehicle never wheels or fords water, but the "frame" rails (yes, I know, let's move along) are only something like 2" high IIRC, not a lot of room there to protect it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, not a lot of water to go through here in the desert... If I lived in MN still I would definitely not even consider it. It would hang maybe an inch or so lower than the muffler or cat.

The wheeling will be reserved to areas where a camper with flipped axles can get to; so no crazy rock climbing, just choppy forest roads at most.
 
Yes I don't wheel crazy, either, but living in this area, Ford fording water to some degree is a regular occurrence due to tropical storms and the like. I shudder to think what a sudden dunking would do to a turbo.
 
https://imgur.com/a/zT2ti

No unfortunately it does not clear the hood. I contacted someone who makes kits for the jeep xj and asked to buy just the conversion plates. I was told very politely to kick rocks.

The riser block is just a 4x6x10 or maybe 12" Block of aluminum. The conversion plate is from Aussie speed shop. The machine work was done as a trade. All I did was carve the blocks out of poplar block and a board. Then they where replicated as aluminum. The anchors are the four throttle body bolts and the throttle cable bracket boss and one of the 1/4 npt barbs which was filled with a plug and tapped.

To the op... I would discourage 5psi out of an m90 or turbo that is appropriately sized because the amount of support needed to run correctly out weighs the gains. This is why I'm saying to run higher flows. If you want a little more power a stroker is probably the best option. Just my opinion.

The JTEC ecu can be made to run boost but my understanding is that it decreases resolution in the vacuum part of the map.
 
Cummins90 said:
To the op... I would discourage 5psi out of an m90 or turbo that is appropriately sized because the amount of support needed to run correctly out weighs the gains. This is why I'm saying to run higher flows. If you want a little more power a stroker is probably the best option. Just my opinion.

The JTEC ecu can be made to run boost but my understanding is that it decreases resolution in the vacuum part of the map.
Click to expand...

I got ya, but i'm not looking for massive power. I'm mainly looking to maintain that 200hp/300tq that a stroker would make but when it's up at high altitude - something n/a motors don't do well at all.

Basically I'm gonna be pulling something between this:
http://www.runawaycampers.com/models-prices (the coolcamp)
and this:
https://www.gulfstreamcoach.com/products/light-weight/amerilite/model/14RBC

Just need something that can venture onto a dirt road a bit better than this setup :) :

21032305_10155702991524826_824827858036362160_n.jpg
 
Here's mine, it's heavy because it has everything but A/C(indoor shower/toilet,heater,stove,refridgerator,sink,shower,hot water heater,20gal fresh water,10gal black,killer stereo)! It tows great with little wind resistance and it does have electric brakes! I can hang out for about 2 weeks w/o supplies.
IMG_27041_zpsdec32968.jpg

P1080325_zps4bc4223f.jpg

P1080329_zpsbed09081.jpg
 
Last edited:
Anther option for ecm is to convert to a GM efi system. This can be done downright cheaply.
 
This Spintex kit looks interesting!
six-257a1007_xl.jpg
 
Green XJ Jeep said:
There is actually a few nice kits out there but for what the op wants he might want to look at a nice stroker from Russ and some 4.11 to 4.56 gears
Click to expand...

Well that was the point of my earlier post. The OP has got to build a strong motor to begin with costing big bucks. If he wants a blower, he has to figure that into the build and then spend big bucks again!
 
An LS swap with low amount of boost sounds like what he needs, IMHO.
 
One thing that hasn't been mentioned is gears. The stock automatic ratio is 3.55 with barely does the job on hills by itself. The Tow pkg came with 3.73's for a reason. Now add lift, weight , and wind resistance to that, now you need 4.10's just to get performance back in line!
 
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