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98 dies when going down the road

Goosekiller

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Indiana
Jeep dies going down the road for an extended period of time it does it more of the RPMs are above 2k. It always fires back up...new parts that I've put on it are cps throttle position sensor iac 02 sensor cap plug wires coil asd relay and cleaned all connections to the computer and made sure computer was tight..no codes on computer either.. strange thing is that it will not do it all the time...it also stalls under heavy acceleration

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That's on the list for the weekend..it did the same thing 2 years ago and it was the iac but that didn't cure it this time. Just tired of throwing parts at it

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I just don't understand the above 2k thing and that it won't do it all the time. It would be different if it wouldn't start back up every time

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Don't forget to check the rear grounds behind the spare tires and plastic trim. Temporarily disconnect any trailer light wiring. Inspect the driver door and tailgate wire harness for chafed wire insulation, cut/damaged wires, and failed wire splices.
 
My '98 did this and it drove me crazy tracking down the cause.

Check the fuel injection wire harness to see whether if it is chaffing or rubbing against the end tip of the fuel injector rail and causing an electrical short.

On some cars, the zip ties that hold the wire harness against the firewall will crack
and fall off - then the fuel injector wire harness will slump down and rub against the
rear tip of the fuel injector rail. In time, the fuel injector rail will cut its way through
the wire wrap and insulation and cause an electrical short (or shorts); then one or more
fuel injectors will go wonky. Sometimes you'll get a CEL. Sometimes you won't.
 
Don't forget to check the rear grounds behind the spare tires and plastic trim. Temporarily disconnect any trailer light wiring. Inspect the driver door and tailgate wire harness for chafed wire insulation, cut/damaged wires, and failed wire splices.
Found some corrosion in a ground wire it fixed the light and power window problem...still wants to die and restart after about 10 miles at 60+ mph

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My '98 did this and it drove me crazy tracking down the cause.

Check the fuel injection wire harness to see whether if it is chaffing or rubbing against the end tip of the fuel injector rail and causing an electrical short.

On some cars, the zip ties that hold the wire harness against the firewall will crack
and fall off - then the fuel injector wire harness will slump down and rub against the
rear tip of the fuel injector rail. In time, the fuel injector rail will cut its way through
the wire wrap and insulation and cause an electrical short (or shorts); then one or more
fuel injectors will go wonky. Sometimes you'll get a CEL. Sometimes you won't.
Checking this tomorrow ty

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No bad spots in harness still cuts out at 3/4 throttle and dies when you roll above 60 after a few miles...

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No bad spots in harness still cuts out at 3/4 throttle and dies when you roll above 60 after a few miles...

The two most likely suspects are lack of fuel or an OBD engine sensor that has become heat sensitive. Typically that would the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS).
 
give a better explanation of how it dies. does it just shut off quickly out of the blue? does it act up before it dies?
does it ever feel like it is going to happen and then goes away?
hard to tell for sure but my gut says you're chasing a ground or bad connection of some sort.
simplest most basic thing is have you removes and cleaned both ends of all your battery cables and wires? i had a battery bungied in place once and it would vibrate and shift enough that the old negative clamp would wiggle and arc. it ended up pitting the inside of the clamp where i couldnt see it and it cause some crazy "1/2 stalling hestitation" on bumps and corners, and even when i'd shift gears.
 
give a better explanation of how it dies. does it just shut off quickly out of the blue? does it act up before it dies?
does it ever feel like it is going to happen and then goes away?
hard to tell for sure but my gut says you're chasing a ground or bad connection of some sort.
simplest most basic thing is have you removes and cleaned both ends of all your battery cables and wires? i had a battery bungied in place once and it would vibrate and shift enough that the old negative clamp would wiggle and arc. it ended up pitting the inside of the clamp where i couldnt see it and it cause some crazy "1/2 stalling hestitation" on bumps and corners, and even when i'd shift gears.
it back fires a couple times then bogs down and dies has a loss of power right before it happens...under a hard acceleration it back fires and shuts off...it'll accelerate at wot when it's cold but once it warms up it does its thing..drove it to work at 60mph 40 miles this morning and it ran fine

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Bucking, stalling, and backfiring is almost always an O2 sensor issue.
 
Bucking, stalling, and backfiring is almost always an O2 sensor issue.
You get the prize lol... hard to believe after 4 years with no cats or o2 sensors it just acted up now...
ef51c9a9a2603bb2150de1e651133efd.jpg

Put this on with new o2 sensors and she runs like a champ

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