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New radiator leaking at cap - any fix short of radiator replacement?

schmitty

NAXJA Forum User
Location
MA
Last weekend I replaced the leaking stock radiator in my 98 XJ with a new CSF 2 core. During shipping the filler neck got a little banged up, most obvious was a dent in the neck sidewall....since the old radiator was already out, I knocked the dent out and pressed forward with the install.

The copper lip was also slightly bent, so I tried to bring that back to shape. Less obvious, during install anyway, was the copper lip was not flat. So now there is a small leak there, I'm guessing because the cap gasket is not sitting flat against the filler lip.

I've already spoken to the place I ordered the radiator from, and they will exchange this radiator for a new one. New units are often damaged in shipping I was told, and it's standard procedure to have the customer try to correct the damage first if possible.

But short of tearing the Jeep apart again to swap radiators, does anyone have any ideas? I should have taken a picture of the lip...there is a raised bump around the circumference of it, in some places the bump is depressed leading to the "non-flatness." I'm concerned wacking it with a screwdriver and hammer will further deform the copper lip.


I think I already know the answer (replace the rad), but trying to avoid it....the AT cooler connector was a bear, don't want to touch that again...
 
I had the same problem.
But i solved it: With a gasflame and flux , you can soldering a thin layer of solder on the lip of your rad. Then with sandpaper on a flat peace of wood make the solder flat. The surface is very flat and the cap wil close.
greetings
 
Just swap it out for a new one.
 
I'd return it and get a new one as well.
 
I had similar probs but with FOUR replacements... they finally got it right on the FIFTH replacement.

I only installed the FIRST replacement found it leaked from the copper tubing and they kept sending me one after another. The replacement units were all banged up from insufficient packing materials.

Definitely change it out now since it may leak later due to all the stress of straightening it out from banging on it.

Thx.
 
wim hoppenbrouwers said:
I had the same problem.
But i solved it: With a gasflame and flux , you can soldering a thin layer of solder on the lip of your rad. Then with sandpaper on a flat peace of wood make the solder flat. The surface is very flat and the cap wil close.
greetings

That is very risky, unless one is experienced with soldering radiators, big risk of making new leaks if he gets it too hot. Since you have a replacement on the way, I would try a good quality metal filled epoxy filler with brass in it made for brass, permatex has one I think. Use it followed by sandpaper as a temporary fix.
 
While I like Wim's idea, I've got no plumbing experience soldering copper so it's probably a big risk. Thanks for the responses, I figured swapping radiators was the best answer but I wanted to see what others thought. I'll go with the majority and replace the radiator.

Has anyone changed the connector on the rubber AT cooler hose? My biggest concern going back in to swap radiators is destroying that connector, it took a pounding during the first install.
 
schmitty said:
While I like Wim's idea, I've got no plumbing experience soldering copper so it's probably a big risk. Thanks for the responses, I figured swapping radiators was the best answer but I wanted to see what others thought. I'll go with the majority and replace the radiator.

Has anyone changed the connector on the rubber AT cooler hose? My biggest concern going back in to swap radiators is destroying that connector, it took a pounding during the first install.

Hallo again. I fixed the connections with normal screwclamps. there is only a little pressure on the ATF lines. :wave1:
 
wim hoppenbrouwers said:
I had the same problem.
But i solved it: With a gasflame and flux , you can soldering a thin layer of solder on the lip of your rad. Then with sandpaper on a flat peace of wood make the solder flat. The surface is very flat and the cap wil close.
greetings

Hello again Concerning the heat. You can fill the rad with coolingwater. So only the top can be hot and the rest of the rad is heatprotected.:flamemad:
 
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