Steering issues gonna throw parts at it

Hopefully this wont be one of those things where ill be throwing the wrong parts but thats why i got u guys right? lol

88 cherekee, 4.0 6cyl
I feel like im all over the place when i hit the smallest bumps and if its a big one Im terrible at trouble shooting the suspention last time i got it inspected they said i had a leak in the steering pump, the steering box, and the lines, ok since then i have started to feel like something is turning roughly under my seat, thunk when i turn. ok i told u im not good at diagnosing suspention

i wanted to start with my u-joints on the axel shaft fisrt then the u-joints on the shafts.

questions:
what are u-joint straps?
also it says to raise vehicle and take parking break off? wont it roll even if i block wheel?
as you can see im nervous but i want to get this done.

Hallo. Safety first. When the car is placed on jackstands it is better.
You can be able to turn the wheels and drive shaft. Only one axle, which you are working on.
The other wheels on the ground can be blocked extra.
But if you are working in the front , why not using the hand brakes too? They are only working on the rear.
The U joints are holding in place by the 2 straps and 2 bolts each. :yap:

If you're just lifting the front to work on front end stuff, block one of the rear wheels by chocking it fore and aft - so it can't roll around on you (get a few sets of those folding wheel chocks you can find at Sears for five bucks a pair. I keep three or four sets in the bottom drawer of my toolbox, a pair in my truck, and I even keep a pair in the spare tyre well in her car. Safety first, last, and always...)

If it's a positive "clunk" when turning, and just one of them, I'd actually check the track bar first. The track bar locates your axle to prevent side-to-side movement - it runs from the driver's side framerail to the passenger side of the axle, as I recall. The TRE (Tie Rod End) at the framerail may be starting to show wear, the bushing at the axle end may be showing wear, or the bolt may be loose at the axle.

Before you just "throw parts at it," why not check to see what parts need throwing? You could save yourself quite a few bucks and a few hours' work if you just spend a half-hour troubleshooting...

Lift the front of the vehicle, chocking the rear wheel(s). Let the axle droop, support the vehicle at the frame.

Using a pair of Channel-lock pliers, compress each TRE and watch for rebound. Each TRE should compress about 1/16" or so (the ball studs in them are spring-loaded,) and should rebound fully after pressure is released. This makes sure the spring hasn't collapsed, and is allowing free play. Test each TRE you can reach - from the Pitman arm on the steering box to both wheels, and try to compress/rebound the TRE at the frame rail on the track bar as well. If a TRE doesn't compress or doesn't fully rebound, replace it.

Having done that, take hold of each component of the steering linkage in your hands, with one hand on each side of the TRE you're checking. Try to wiggle the joint. You should get it to pivot around the ball stud fairly easily, but it shouldn't "clunk" when you move it - if it does, it's likely worn. Grease and repeat on any joints found to be loose - replace any that are still loose after greasing (grease is cheap, TREs aren't. But, check before you grease, so you can see if any are "on the way out.")

Check to make sure your bushings aren't going soft - the upper control arms (both ends,) the lower control arms (both ends,) the track bar (at the axle,) and the antiroll bar (links to the axle and the bushings to the frame.) A good probe is actually a knitting needle - they're blunt enough to not damage anything, but still sharp enough to press into the rubber. Get the knitting needles that are about 1/4" through the shank. You shouldn't be able to press more than the very point of the needle (3/32" or so) into the rubber - if you can get more than that in there, the bushing is going soft. Replace it.

The universal joints (all seven of them - both front wheels and both driveshafts) can be tested easily - grab the driveshaft in both hands, with one hand on each side of the universal joint being tested. Wiggle and shake the shaft, feeling for any free play in the universal joint. Grease and repeat - if a joint "tightens up" after greasing, make a note to replace it in the next few weeks. Replace straight away any that don't tighten up with greasing.

Recall that the "shotgun" approach to finding worn parts can be spendy - and many tests are rather cheap, and don't take very much time! I'd rather spend a half-hour positively identifying parts that want replacing than just replacing them all and finding out I spent $300 more than I had to... A pair of knitting needles is a few bucks (get the aluminum ones, not the plastic ones,) and you should have largish Channel-Lock pliers around anyhow (damned useful, those.) Since you're planning front end work, I'm sure you already have jackstands and a floor jack - so you've got just about everything you need as far as tools, you have the knowledge that you need (now,) so spend a half-hour or so testing and save yerself a few bucks or so.

"U-joint straps" are the metal bits that attach the driveshaft universal joints to the pinion yokes. They should always be replaced when removed, especially when replacing the universal joint as well. I do find socket head capscrews to work better than the reduced hex head screws - get 1/4"-28x1" screws, and be sure to apply LocTite #242 (or equivalent) to the screw threads! Thrown driveshafts are no fun.

I also like to paint the universal joint caps with never-seez - both the ones that get pressed into the driveshaft yokes, and the ones that get strapped into the pinion yokes. Makes future disassembly easier...

DON'T do the U-JOINTS if the problem is loose steering. U-joints have nothing to do with steering.

Things that can affect steering with excess play:
1.) steering box - and you were told that your leaks so it may also have excess play
2.) pitman arm - connected to steering box
3.) tie rod ends - look like joint on the end of the pitman arm, but are where the steering rods connect to the steering knuckles (out near the wheels)

Those parts are the same as most cars have. On a Jeep, you also have the track bar which has bushings at each end that can wear. Ball joints which hold the steering knuckles to the axle also can go bad, but they are a little harder to check.

5-90 gave you excellent instructions on checking it all out, but I also like to lay underneath while someone turns the steering wheel back and forth about 1/4 of a turn left and then right, repeatedly while I look for free play in parts.

The most common parts to go bad are the tie rod ends, which are also the easiest to replace. As 5-90 said, a thunk could be the track bar (holds the axle in place side-to-side). If your steering box leaks, you have a problem there. Start by throwing those parts if anything.

DON"T throw U-JOINTS to fix the steering!

Carrying this over from your post on exhaust to make sure you read it. This is what I meant by local chapter. A little help goes a long way to getting started wrenching on your Jeep. When I was young, I worked in shops with guys who already had done it all and could talk you through it before you started. http://www.naxja.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=22

winterbeater said:

DON'T do the U-JOINTS if the problem is loose steering. U-joints have nothing to do with steering.

Things that can affect steering with excess play:
1.) steering box - and you were told that your leaks so it may also have excess play
2.) pitman arm - connected to steering box
3.) tie rod ends - look like joint on the end of the pitman arm, but are where the steering rods connect to the steering knuckles (out near the wheels)

Those parts are the same as most cars have. On a Jeep, you also have the track bar which has bushings at each end that can wear. Ball joints which hold the steering knuckles to the axle also can go bad, but they are a little harder to check.

5-90 gave you excellent instructions on checking it all out, but I also like to lay underneath while someone turns the steering wheel back and forth about 1/4 of a turn left and then right, repeatedly while I look for free play in parts.

The most common parts to go bad are the tie rod ends, which are also the easiest to replace. As 5-90 said, a thunk could be the track bar (holds the axle in place side-to-side). If your steering box leaks, you have a problem there. Start by throwing those parts if anything.

DON"T throw U-JOINTS to fix the steering!

Click to expand...

Thanks, but i change my steering box just recently i had got it from a junk yard i had it in the closet for a while until i got up enough confidence to finally put it in. I wish someone would have told me how heavy it would be laying on my back tryna mount the damn thing. lol. But i got through it pretty well though. the problem i would say i was having before the swap was alot of play in the wheel. thats no longer there but the wheel actually goes back in the straight ahead position slower then expected? But it steers good to me i kept checking the mounting bolts after the install to be sure that that it wasnt ripping the box off (read about that)

other than the not returning to the straight ahead after turning fast enough i would say that my steering is much better.

the problems im having now are the noises under the car and when turning i feel it under me (under drivers seat) i figured it was the double cardon joint since its kinda consistant on where the noise is coming from but like u said 5-90 gave great intructions ill be attacking today

any write ups? on the u-joints that is being that i already purchased the joints i figured why not eliminate them now then go from there!

and by the way when i change my steering box off the box from the JY still had the pitnum arm attached i couldnt get that thing off for the life of me.
I just left the pitnum arm on the one i was removing therefore disconnecting from the TRE of the pitnum arm and the TRE rubber piece was finished.

im a try to take pic today guys so hopefully ya can help me get my rig strong.

IOU guys thanks alot

lots of great info here - bookmarking for later investigation...