• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Help requested

Mike from Chile

NAXJA Forum User
Hello from Chile!

I will try to explain my problem allthough "specific parts" of a vehicle are hard for me to translate, so please be patient.

I have a XJ classic 2000 4 doors, 4.0 lt
Since a few month ago the "pull handle" to open the engine door (we call it "capot" wich I think is a french word) has become really hard. It is a big task to get it open. Handle design doesn't help either.
I have sprayed some wd40 into the clips at the front but I guess the probem is in the rubber gauge that surrounds the cable. Any suggestion to solve the problem? What is the exact point that makes it so hard to open? Is there any part to grease?

Thanks in advance

Mike
 
Most times I´ve seen them get hard to pull, it was the cross over rod, rubbing on something. A battery a little taller than stock, will push the radiator hose up, and rub the rod that goes to the passenger side lock. If the stops have come loose and backed out, it can also make it a little hard to open.
 
On the earlier model XJ's you can remove the headlights, the bezel around them, and metal that holds the glass portions. This will give you access to two bolts on each side that can be loosened. This diconnects the latching mechanisms from the vehicle frame, allowing you to raise the hood.

Maybe someone on this board can confirm if this is true for the later models.
 
if it is just stiff try this, disconnect the cable from under the hood and see how hard it is to pull. if is still stiff the cable should be replaced. if it is easy to pull, try to lube the latches on both sides of the hood and lube the pivot where the cable pulls the rod for both latches
 
Guys, please remember that Mike speaks English because he was an exchange student in the U.S. -- 20 years ago. Let's make it easy for him to understand by not using "jargon."

"Lube" is "lubricate" in English. WD-40 is probably not the best product for this, although jneary works in a Jeep service shop and perhaps he will correct me on this. WD-40 should be good to initially loosen the cable, but I suggest that after the WD-40 some spray white lithium grease would be better for long-term lubrication.
 
Thanks to all of you. Tom has also tought me something new in extreme case of hood locked.
I will lube after wd40 as suggested and also will follow Jneary instructions. It is strange but the path of the cable is very short and free of obstacles, unless the non see part that that goes to the pull handle.

Thanks again.
Mike
 
Mike, I learned because I did a complete front sheetmetal swap in association with converting from a 2.5L to a 4.7L stroker. Later I pulled the release handle and it came off in my hand. That is a horrible feeling.
 
old_man said:
Mike, I learned because I did a complete front sheetmetal swap in association with converting from a 2.5L to a 4.7L stroker. Later I pulled the release handle and it came off in my hand. That is a horrible feeling.
Yes Old Man, that is exactly the panic I experience each time I pull the handle.

By the way Colorado is my "dream state" to visit next time i step on americas land.
Everyone is invited for a chilean jeeping, as Eagle already did.

Thanks for your "international" XJ cooperation.

Mike
 
Another thing to check, especially if there has ever been any front end damage or the hood has ever been removed, is the gap between the hood and the fenders. If the hood binds on one side, it will prevent the latch from releasing properly.
 
When the hood release on my 1988 Cherokee became hard to operate, I found that PB Blaster followed a day later by white lithium grease on the two latch mechanisms at the corners of the hood was more help than trying to lubricate the cable itself.
 
Back
Top